Well, when I pulled my relay out. My truck would not pass a injector buzz test or a contribution test on AE. Spent several days messing with crap thinking there was some other issue with my truck. Then on a whim I stuck the relay back in.... then all was good. Many others have the same exact issue. I just wanted to let you know.

It doesn't affect how the truck runs at all, just prevents you from running diagnostic tests on your truck with AE.

 

The reason Im doing the AIH delete is because i ordered my CCV mod and I figured why not??? A nice pretty blue plug looks better than the stock AIH and its one more thing i can say Ive done and another thing to add to my signature

 

Why so many resistors? Parallel and series combination like that gets you back to 470 ohms again, but adds complexity? Trying to spread out the heat generated?

 

I guess that is the idea. I didn't come up with it. You are limited on the watt ratings if you get them from radio shack. They came in a pack of 5 so I used 4 on the aih delete and 1 on the ebpv solenoid plug.

 

Miller Feed, you claim you have 40 pounds of boost. You realize that boost is just a measurement of restriction? You put that same turbo on a motor that has been ported, big cam and better intercooler, you won't see 40 pounds. I'm not saying the AIH delete does any good, but removing restrictions on forced induction or naturally aspirated motors is always beneficial. I just cut off my heating element with a angle grinder, so my mod was free. Have no idea if it did any good, don't really care. Based off your comment, you could restrict the inlet 20%, 30% what ever, and not effect performance?

 

You can use 1 1W if you can find 'em, or 4 1/2W from RS to make a 1W. LOL

If you do the math, the 14V through a 470 ohm resistor is very close to 1/2W. 1W is better just so you're not running the resistor close to its max rating. As rarely as it comes on, it's probably not an issue, but it's just good engineering practice to not have parts run near their maximum ratings. Like connecting rods.

 

I thought it would be a 2 watt with that setup I posted. It would dissipate the heat a little better from my understanding. It wasn't like it was rocket science to hook up. Just twist up two resistor ends X2 and use some butt connectors to hook it up. With some heat shrink, it was a clean and good looking install.

 

Yours right actually. Must be what they were after. A bigger wattage. A single two watt resister would actually be pretty chunky.

 

I think you are confused. Boost (psi) is a measure of volume of air - in this case. We have a fixed space to push air into, therefore at 0psi there is a certain volume of air in that space. At higher psi, there is more air (volume) crammed into that same space. Ultimately, we are trying to add more air to the combustion chamber...

Higher boost = more air into the chamber - 'restriction' not a big issue. I think thats what Rick was 'just sayin'. I've never seen dyno results from this mod, but I suspect there is no gain.

 

All in all, it means more air volume will get there "quicker" when a restriction is removed given the same pressure and aid cylinder charging. While you won't feel a SOTP increase from an AIH delete, but it can benefit by supplementing other mods. Just my 2 cents.

 

I guess the only way to figure this out is to put a boost gauge pre and post AIH and see if there is a lost of boost on the post side. I do have a delete plug from Clay, I just never took the time to do it. You never know, I may gain 10 hp if I do this.

 

Each parallel set makes a 1W resistor, and current flow through both "1W resistors" will be the same since they are in series (both carry total circuit current when in series). The wattage adds when in parallel, but not in series....

 

I agree, not so much measurement of restriction. But, proven that a more efficient movement of air will make more horsepower. The hypothetical engine I refer to above will make more horsepower at 30 pounds of boost with an efficient turbo. Than stock motor at 40lbs of boost. Because of less "restriction of air".

 

I was thinking of doing it just to use the relay for driving lights, but, after learning it affects ae....I'll just get another relay for driving lights and leave it alone.

 

May I ask why you disagree with the CCV mod miller feed.
I vented mine after pulling the plastic tanked cooler and replaced it with a all alloy one. Only from seeing the state of the inside of the old cooler and pipe work. The oil reside would have to restrict the cooling ability of the cooler wouldn't it. And my pipe to boot joints are now free of oil seeping. I would hook it back up if there was a way to run it after the cooler though as it puffs a bit after a long drive, I get some funny looks sometimes from people that arnt aware of where it is coming from.