CLICKING LIFTER? BROKEN STUD!
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Well, I wanted to adjust the valves because it sounded like a lifter was clicking ... all the time. Now, after r&r ing the rocker studs and adjusting the valves, I still have the clicking. I could quite locate it so I bought a stethoscope.
On the v. cover it sounds like a constant clicking, but I don't know if that normal v. opening/closing? And at the cam, below the lifter cover on the block, it sounds worse. Overall, it sounds like I have solid lifter cam.
Wow, a set of Isky lifters now costs $100. Two years ago they cost sixty something. But no, the war is not causing inflation.
Tomorrow I'll watch valve, rocker, p.rod movement. I also need to check the installed height of the springs, and how that worked out with the .095" longer sbc valves. That could account for some of the noise.
Oh, and I found the reason for the studs breaking. I spoke to my racing engine builder pro friend, and he said he has seen them break if the tip of the stud is not flat. In that event the allen torques down on the side that is higher. He said he always turns them on the lathe if not flat. Mystery solved. Of course I should have know that! Bonk.
Very interesting. I just had another talk with my pro friend, and I'll test this out tomorrow. He said that when adjusting the valves cold, not running, the engine should run bad when you first start it after adjusting, and then as the lifters pump up, it should right itself. I'm driving out there tomorrow, so I should find out. I'm a bit skeptical.
We also suspect that the v.spring installed height is off, and the springs are not getting enough seat pressure, causing the r.arms to slap the stems. That makes me so happy.
On the v. cover it sounds like a constant clicking, but I don't know if that normal v. opening/closing? And at the cam, below the lifter cover on the block, it sounds worse. Overall, it sounds like I have solid lifter cam.
Wow, a set of Isky lifters now costs $100. Two years ago they cost sixty something. But no, the war is not causing inflation.
Tomorrow I'll watch valve, rocker, p.rod movement. I also need to check the installed height of the springs, and how that worked out with the .095" longer sbc valves. That could account for some of the noise.
Oh, and I found the reason for the studs breaking. I spoke to my racing engine builder pro friend, and he said he has seen them break if the tip of the stud is not flat. In that event the allen torques down on the side that is higher. He said he always turns them on the lathe if not flat. Mystery solved. Of course I should have know that! Bonk.
Very interesting. I just had another talk with my pro friend, and I'll test this out tomorrow. He said that when adjusting the valves cold, not running, the engine should run bad when you first start it after adjusting, and then as the lifters pump up, it should right itself. I'm driving out there tomorrow, so I should find out. I'm a bit skeptical.
We also suspect that the v.spring installed height is off, and the springs are not getting enough seat pressure, causing the r.arms to slap the stems. That makes me so happy.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
I found an easy way for one guy to adjust the valves and never leave his 'seat' in the engine compartment. I sit there. You need a hand start switch, and pull the coil wire.
You can start at any valve w/o worrying about tdc! Watch the exhaust valve and when it is 1/4 of its travel down, adjust the intake. Crank intake down and up 3/4, then adjust the exhaust. Move to the next cylinder.
You can start at any valve w/o worrying about tdc! Watch the exhaust valve and when it is 1/4 of its travel down, adjust the intake. Crank intake down and up 3/4, then adjust the exhaust. Move to the next cylinder.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Wow. Ever since I first had this head built I have have issues with it. Mainly that it sounded like a diesel.
Well, today I broke it down, pulled the springs and tested the psi. These are Isky springs, and are supposed to be installed at 1.750", with a seat psi of 135 lbs. I know Clifford requires 110 lbs at the seat. What I found was that the shop cut the valve seat to get required height.
They installed the springs right on the oem surface, with too compressed a valve. Instead of 1.750", they were at 1.723". And get this: with a whopping 150 lbs at the seat!!
So I think there was so much psi the lifters could not pump up and keep the p.rod seated, so things were slapping. That hurts me to think about.
While I was debating how to remedy the situation, considering buying new springs, I just pulled the inner springs out of my Isky doubles, and tested them. They gave a reading of 118 lbs, and I ran with it. I put them all back on, ran the valves, and it runs so smooth and quiet that I just laugh every time I come to a light. Peace at last!
Adjusting the valves that way is the easiest method I have found. You only need a remote starter switch. There is no finding tdc, no following firing order or checking the dizzy. It is great. Start at any cylinder. When the exhaust v. is 1/4 of the way down, adjust the intake. Then watch that same intake as it moves. Make it compress fully, and when it comes 3/4 of the way up, adjust the exhaust. Move to another cylinder.
Well, today I broke it down, pulled the springs and tested the psi. These are Isky springs, and are supposed to be installed at 1.750", with a seat psi of 135 lbs. I know Clifford requires 110 lbs at the seat. What I found was that the shop cut the valve seat to get required height.
They installed the springs right on the oem surface, with too compressed a valve. Instead of 1.750", they were at 1.723". And get this: with a whopping 150 lbs at the seat!!
So I think there was so much psi the lifters could not pump up and keep the p.rod seated, so things were slapping. That hurts me to think about.
While I was debating how to remedy the situation, considering buying new springs, I just pulled the inner springs out of my Isky doubles, and tested them. They gave a reading of 118 lbs, and I ran with it. I put them all back on, ran the valves, and it runs so smooth and quiet that I just laugh every time I come to a light. Peace at last!
Adjusting the valves that way is the easiest method I have found. You only need a remote starter switch. There is no finding tdc, no following firing order or checking the dizzy. It is great. Start at any cylinder. When the exhaust v. is 1/4 of the way down, adjust the intake. Then watch that same intake as it moves. Make it compress fully, and when it comes 3/4 of the way up, adjust the exhaust. Move to another cylinder.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Follow up note:
Before I did the spring 'adjustment', I've had clattering lifters every morning for the past six months or so. Now, after doing the springs, it sat from about 8pm to about 3pm, and when I started it ... no lifter noise at all.
Before I did the spring 'adjustment', I've had clattering lifters every morning for the past six months or so. Now, after doing the springs, it sat from about 8pm to about 3pm, and when I started it ... no lifter noise at all.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
I have my sights set on the land sp. record, so I need to look around for a cliff.
Seriously though, 1.) I guess I just need to see if my hydroboost is causing my brakes to drag. Mileage down, and prices up, definitely not a good combo. 2.) swap out the w/p pulley for a dual v belt, so I can drive when the fan kicks in! 3.) Get the ebrake working correctly ... and on goes the never ending project, all while trying to avoid the 'honey do's'.
Seriously though, 1.) I guess I just need to see if my hydroboost is causing my brakes to drag. Mileage down, and prices up, definitely not a good combo. 2.) swap out the w/p pulley for a dual v belt, so I can drive when the fan kicks in! 3.) Get the ebrake working correctly ... and on goes the never ending project, all while trying to avoid the 'honey do's'.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F-250 restorer
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
6
Jan 15, 2011 03:06 PM
fzeed
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
21
Jan 29, 2009 10:14 AM
OldFordRacer
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
3
Apr 22, 2008 12:39 AM
inliner
Performance & General Engine Building
8
Jan 4, 2008 09:01 PM
thunderb
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
5
Dec 13, 2007 01:45 PM
