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Pilot Bearing or bushing???

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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 09:50 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
It is the same dimensions as 7.3 pilot - but from a different application. Brian did say he likes to put bearing in freezer and heat up flywheel so bearing will 'drop in' as opposed to pressing it in.

Barney, was that 50k on your new or old trans? I'm convinced a loose input shaft bearing is the reason for pilot bearing failures.
I changed to a Kevlar because the OEM pilot died at around 110,000.
When I swapped in the new tranny I odered the 6.0 upgrade. when Roland and I dropped the old tranny out, the Kevlar one was JUNK. almost 1/4 of slop.
I'm not sure if the input is causing the pilot bearings to go out or its the other way around. My input shaft "felt" fairly tight.
IDK but I think BTS may be onto a better fix than the Kevlar for the stock 7.3 pilot


Barney
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 10:08 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by bfife
I changed to a Kevlar because the OEM pilot died at around 110,000.
When I swapped in the new tranny I odered the 6.0 upgrade. when Roland and I dropped the old tranny out, the Kevlar one was JUNK. almost 1/4 of slop.
I'm not sure if the input is causing the pilot bearings to go out or its the other way around. My input shaft "felt" fairly tight.
IDK but I think BTS may be onto a better fix than the Kevlar for the stock 7.3 pilot


Barney
I'm thinking a stock pilot would have taken your clutch and trans out in 110k - since it likely would have been FUBAR in 10k. I'm sure Kevlar is better than stock, but its a bandaid for a bigger problem. My input shaft play is 'minimal', but I dunno how calibrated my fingers are... Its sure not TIGHT.

I plan to swap in a MW trans in a couple months (it'll have 350k on it by then) and will prolly just go with 6.0 pilot since it'll be easy for me and they seem to work good.

Can we get MW to tell us what our old trans (core) looked like? I wonder if that 'little slop' I feel is actually much worse than it feels...
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #18  
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Jason, do you have a p/n or anything on that bearing? I called out there this afternoon and Brian was out. I need to do this clutch swap this weekend (it barely shifts anymore) and so if I got to get the right parts I have to order them soon. TIA

D
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #19  
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6003RS

PLEASE let us know how it works!!!!!!!!!! PICS are goooooood, mmmkay???

Buy the (10) pack and send the rest to yer friends on FTE.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 06:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
6003RS

PLEASE let us know how it works!!!!!!!!!! PICS are goooooood, mmmkay???

Buy the (10) pack and send the rest to yer friends on FTE.
You sir are a STAR!!! I cannot thank you enough.

I'll drag the D200 under the truck just for you!

One more question...Should I change the forward bearing retainer(what the throwout bearing rides on) as well or should that be alright?

Thanks again!

Duncan
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:03 PM
  #21  
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A couple of updates....I was told to stay far far away from those chinese bearings. I'll post company and price when I get mine. I ordered the prebled clutch kit and fork from Carolina Clutch this am. They had the best price. Ordered the Front bearing retainer and seal from Ford this afternoon. Both were 28 bucks a piece. Trying to cover all my bases before I rip it apart Sunday. If y'all can think of anything else I might need....
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:41 PM
  #22  
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The plastic pivot. They're tough, but you have a lot of miles on yours Duncan! The clutch fork rides on it. Black plastic. I found a pic.

 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Fat Diesel
The plastic pivot. They're tough, but you have a lot of miles on yours Duncan! The clutch fork rides on it. Black plastic. I found a pic.

Thanks Andy...i forgot to mention I bought that as well this afternoon at the dealer. 15 bucks is kind of steep for a little piece of plastic!

How was your front bearing retainer when you pulled your trans?? I had a 87 mustang 4 banger back in the day that had 350,000 miles on it. I pulled the engine to change the bearings and put a clutch in it at the same time. (the old and new clutch disc were almost identical, the pressure plate was a right mess!) The front bearing retainer on that was worn considerably from the throw out bearing so I changed it out.

I rather have the part in my hand and not need it than to need it and not have it!

D
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 09:07 AM
  #24  
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I know Im bringing this back from the dead, but I am not sure my PM's are working and I am trying to get some information on what path you went with JetDoc, please let me know if you have any information about a roller bearing pilot.

Thanks!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #25  
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The 6003RS Brian gave me looked good after 80k miles and I put it back when I swapped engines last year. A friend bought some cheap chinesey ones and had one fail in 20k miles... I guess quality counts!

The good thing is failure of this type of bearing should not damage the input shaft like the OE does.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2016 | 09:21 AM
  #26  
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Not to dig up an old thread, but it looks like I might have a pilot bearing issue, and in the five years since this thread was active, I was wondering whether the forum has come to any agreement on what the best fix is for a bad pilot bearing for the ZF6 in a 7.3 F-250.

So far, the main options I'm seeing are:

1. Replace with the OEM needle bearing (but I get the feeling the OEM bearing is poorly designed for this application).
2. Replace the OEM needle bearing with a kevlar bearing or bushing (but I get the feeling that these don't last, either, although they won't grenade anything like the OEM will).
3. Machine the flywheel to accept the larger 6.0 OEM bearing.
4. Go with a sintered bronze bushing instead of the needle bearing (it sounds like this, or the 6.0 needle bearing, is the best "fix").

What's everyone think is the best, longest-lived solution? And if you have suggestions, do you have sources or part numbers?

Thank you in advance.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2016 | 10:22 AM
  #27  
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Syncro,

I've only put 12k on my truck since installing the Dorman oil-impregnated bronze bushing. No failure or complaints, but not exactly long-term feedback. If it indeed performs, the bang-for-buck ratio is awesome - it was under $10, available at the local Irish car parts store. However, I'd have spent a couple of hundred bucks if I knew the best, most bulletproof solution that would keep me from dealing with that tranny again.
 

Last edited by montanasteve; Mar 5, 2016 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Content
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Old Mar 5, 2016 | 01:56 PM
  #28  
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Thanks MontanaSteve. Looks like I'm gonna try the Dorman 690-039 for $7. Did you install it yourself? How much of a bear was it to install?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2016 | 02:40 PM
  #29  
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When I installed my valair stock clutch, back on early 2012, I noticed the input shaft all chewed up. After digging around, I went with that FIX-ALL sleeve kit. So far, and probably 100k later, it's still trucking. Grant it, I've been back in the twice for that damn T.O. bearing
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 05:36 AM
  #30  
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Sorry...First I noticed this. I pulled the engine last year after about 100K on the clutch.


1. I think South Bend clutches are over rated and over priced.
2. Ball Bearing pilot was still serviceable after 100K


Transmission out getting overhauled, going to be behind a P pumped Cummins very soon.
 
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