An igintion module problem maybe?
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: California
An igintion module problem maybe?
Just finished a fresh (and complete) rebuild on my truck. Runs absolutely great but.........once in a while it does just flat-out die like I turned the key off. Not a fuel delivery problem, I'm sure. I did notice that the ignition module had been replaced by the first owner (aftermarket name on it) and by accident I had my hand on it while changing my plugs and noticed all three attaching screws are loose. I have a REALLY long road trip ahead of me and don't need to get stranded. I figure 24.99 was pretty good insurance and I'd just replace it. Whaddya guys think? Also does anyone know of the resistance specs through both the primary and secondary coil windings? I managed to drop it when re-assembling my engine and now it have a very small dent it the bottom end of it. Also are they prone to thermal shorts ? Thanks in advance.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
A lot of autoparts stores will test those for free. Be sure they do it a few times so that it has a chance to heat up (some will only fail when hot). I usually drive it there, unbolt it in the parking lot, and bring it in, so that it's at operating temp.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
When it dies, feel the module and coil. If either are hot, that's your most likely culprit.
As for the module mounting bolts being loose, not an issue. The inner fender is plastic.....
I'd test the suspect parts, rather than just blindly replace stuff. At the same time, check all the connections for looseness or corrosion.
As for the aftermarket modules, I'd rather take a chance on a 30 year old factory unit from a junkyard, but that's just me.......
As for the module mounting bolts being loose, not an issue. The inner fender is plastic.....
I'd test the suspect parts, rather than just blindly replace stuff. At the same time, check all the connections for looseness or corrosion.
As for the aftermarket modules, I'd rather take a chance on a 30 year old factory unit from a junkyard, but that's just me.......
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: California
Sounds like good advice
Mike
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: California
When it dies, feel the module and coil. If either are hot, that's your most likely culprit.
As for the module mounting bolts being loose, not an issue. The inner fender is plastic.....
I'd test the suspect parts, rather than just blindly replace stuff. At the same time, check all the connections for looseness or corrosion.
As for the aftermarket modules, I'd rather take a chance on a 30 year old factory unit from a junkyard, but that's just me.......
As for the module mounting bolts being loose, not an issue. The inner fender is plastic.....
I'd test the suspect parts, rather than just blindly replace stuff. At the same time, check all the connections for looseness or corrosion.
As for the aftermarket modules, I'd rather take a chance on a 30 year old factory unit from a junkyard, but that's just me.......
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
I forgot the 73-79 trucks had steel inner fenders. Still, the module should work even unbolted from the fender, as the 80-86 trucks use the same module, and don't have any additional grounding provisions at the mounting locations.
I still say check both for heat issues, along with the integrity of the connections.
And, yes, the coil *could* be damaged from dropping it.
I still say check both for heat issues, along with the integrity of the connections.
And, yes, the coil *could* be damaged from dropping it.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
If your ignition module tests bad, I agree with Rogue. The $30 job ignition modules are China ripoffs that don't stand a chance against a 30 year old original Ford from the JY.
((That being said, I went through 4 at the junkyard that all tested bad before I gave in and bought a new one. ))
If you do though, definitely get one made in the US from either Ford, or the step up version at autoparts stores (usually around $90). You're rolling the dice on how long the China brand ones will last.
EDIT: Just looked online. Rockauto.com wants $73 for an original Motorcraft ICM.
((That being said, I went through 4 at the junkyard that all tested bad before I gave in and bought a new one. ))
If you do though, definitely get one made in the US from either Ford, or the step up version at autoparts stores (usually around $90). You're rolling the dice on how long the China brand ones will last.
EDIT: Just looked online. Rockauto.com wants $73 for an original Motorcraft ICM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gallopinggreyghost
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
22
Mar 10, 2008 08:17 AM
bigdawg460
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
10
May 18, 2006 11:25 PM
