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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 12:04 AM
  #31  
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Not to mention if you rub the bituthane as you install it, it'll generate enough static to make your hair stand on end. Be careful touching the rest of the truck if it's a dry day.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 02:08 AM
  #32  
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I bought 80 ft of 3/8 foam caulk saver tube and could not get it fed all the way thru. I can get it about 1/4 of the way and it breaks because the foam tube itself gets tight. Used a full can of silicone spray on both the weatherstripping and foam tube. Tried zip tie, 12 ga wire, folding over the foam end...no luck. Any tips for feeding the foam tubing?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 06:00 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by camodown
If your doors are rattling, you may want to look at the rotating part of the door. They are built with a low friction plastic cover to help stop if from rattling. Mine are completely worn through. Might be worth adjusting your striker too....
What "rotating part" of the door are you talking about? I've got a rattle in my rear doors, but I also have intermittently-working door handles back there so maybe it's related...
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #34  
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Lots of great ideas here.......I'm gonna have to do something to the Excursion.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JonathanN
What "rotating part" of the door are you talking about? I've got a rattle in my rear doors, but I also have intermittently-working door handles back there so maybe it's related...
I think he means the little black roller inside the latch. Mine has flat spots worn into it, too.

Are the rollers replaceable separately?

Pop
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Josh88Ford
I bought 80 ft of 3/8 foam caulk saver tube and could not get it fed all the way thru. I can get it about 1/4 of the way and it breaks because the foam tube itself gets tight. Used a full can of silicone spray on both the weatherstripping and foam tube. Tried zip tie, 12 ga wire, folding over the foam end...no luck. Any tips for feeding the foam tubing?
Im not sure of any tips on how to get it through But i would also like to know how this is done seeing as I also went and bought the foam tubing.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:39 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Josh88Ford
I bought 80 ft of 3/8 foam caulk saver tube and could not get it fed all the way thru. I can get it about 1/4 of the way and it breaks because the foam tube itself gets tight. Used a full can of silicone spray on both the weatherstripping and foam tube. Tried zip tie, 12 ga wire, folding over the foam end...no luck. Any tips for feeding the foam tubing?
Originally Posted by jbounds
Im not sure of any tips on how to get it through But i would also like to know how this is done seeing as I also went and bought the foam tubing.
I just did this mod today using the 3/8 inch caulk saver tube.

Couple of tricks I found after banging my head for a while.

-On a super cab you may have 1 or 2 small strips of the caulk saver from the factory already install. You need to slit the back side of the molding 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch and use some needle nose pliers to remove.

-I found that I could only pull it about 5-6 feet before it would break. I put a small slit on the back side of the of the moulding like I mentioned above and repeated until I was done.

-If you don't have an electrician line puller you can use a coat hanger with a string attached to it. Start by feeding the coat hanger with string attached and push to the end of the hanger and come out one of the small holes. Then put the hanger/string back in and come out one of the holes again. This should give you about 5 feet. Then you can make a slit and pull the caulk saver through. Make sure the string is tied very tight on the caulk saver and use some good lube.

Anybody with a super cab do the middle section where the doors come together? Looks like it's sealed at the bottom but open at the top and has a small piece of caulk saver around the door latch.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #38  
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i used the wire snake for eletrical and spray silicone in the holes when started to bind was 123 for me
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 10:16 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by szotty
i used the wire snake for eletrical and spray silicone in the holes when started to bind was 123 for me
Glad it was easy for you. What kind of tubing did you use?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #40  
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i used 3/8 backer rod ran the snake 1 foot in and electrical taped it silicone sprayed the taped area and about every 10 holes just a little bit had seals laying out in straight line 123
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 10:54 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by szotty
i used 3/8 backer rod ran the snake 1 foot in and electrical taped it silicone sprayed the taped area and about every 10 holes just a little bit had seals laying out in straight line 123
I was to cheap to buy the snake...lol..Sounds like you had better results. Reps to you...123.. What is that? Easy as your abc's?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 11:26 PM
  #42  
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yeah about as easy as riding a bike,lol
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #43  
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Even a cave man could do it....

Pop
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 11:56 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by szotty
yeah about as easy as riding a bike,lol
On my truck it was not as easy as shooting a snake through it and pulling. There was some factory obstructions like I mentioned above. I'm sure our posts will help others. ...123..abc..
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 12:52 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by tdpower
Anybody with a super cab do the middle section where the doors come together? Looks like it's sealed at the bottom but open at the top and has a small piece of caulk saver around the door latch.
Yup, I cut a slit at bottom of it, to run the tubing upward.
 
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