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OT shop lighting

 
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:57 PM
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OT shop lighting

Got my building permit for my new 28x30 shop. Have picked up windows and doors allready. But was wandering what everyone was
using for lighting.I will have a 9' ceiling and want to go with fluorescent.How many do you think I should use? 4 or 8ft tubes etc.I know i should get cold start ballasts for my climate but any other ideas welcome.Thanks (Cant wait till spring to start building)
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:11 PM
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I just built (well actually I converted a pole barn) a 30x40 foot shop. I put six 8 foot colt start fluorescent lights in it. It does well but I could have used 2 more. So I would go with six for your shop size. They're not cheap. Each one cost about $53 at Lowe's, THEN you have to buy the bulbs which are about 11 bucks each. MAKE SURE you get the correct bulbs. The ends on the cold starts are now a black rectangular plug. The days of the 2 pronged bulbs have passed. And the big single pronged bulbs wouldn't work in the lights I bought.
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:23 PM
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Look into T5 style fixtures, they make them in 8 ft using 4 4 foot lamps. Go to your local electrical supply house to order, Tamlite makes a nice unit. By the way if you go with standard T8 do yourself a favor and get the 8 ft fixture using 4 4 foot lamps (32 watts/lamp) as they actually put out more lumens then the 8 ft lamps (59 watts/lamp). T5 and T8 fixtures all use electronic ballasts so cold starts should not be an issue. Also the old T12 fixtures have not been able to be manufactured for a couple of years now, in fact T12 lamps will soon not be available in the US.

Paul
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:36 PM
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My work area (28 x 20), is partially insulated. Just the side walls with a concrete floor. I run a wood stove off and on in there so I get by with regular ballast and bulbs. I have 12-4 foot fixtures in three rows of four end to end. I swapped out the exposed lights in a large room at our church and put in a drop ceiling so I got all the fixtures free. I also have two -4 foot single tube fixtures running along the back wall, making a total of 14 fixtures, 26 tubes. I have never thought it was too much. Good lighting makes a big difference!
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 59JEEPSTANG View Post
Look into T5 style fixtures, they make them in 8 ft using 4 4 foot lamps. Go to your local electrical supply house to order, Tamlite makes a nice unit. By the way if you go with standard T8 do yourself a favor and get the 8 ft fixture using 4 4 foot lamps (32 watts/lamp) as they actually put out more lumens then the 8 ft lamps (59 watts/lamp). T5 and T8 fixtures all use electronic ballasts so cold starts should not be an issue. Also the old T12 fixtures have not been able to be manufactured for a couple of years now, in fact T12 lamps will soon not be available in the US.

Paul
That phase out was in regards to the old-style T12 magnetic ballast replacements. I bought mine at a very busy Lowe's store and the guys there said those style T12 fixtures and bulbs I bought were brand new. They're just a totally new style (lights and bulbs).
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:56 PM
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Jeepstang's advice to get 8' fixtures that use 4' lamps is right on.The 8' tubes are quite a bit more expensive than 4'ers,and more difficult to handle and store.
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mountaindoc View Post
That phase out was in regards to the old-style T12 magnetic ballast replacements. I bought mine at a very busy Lowe's store and the guys there said those style T12 fixtures and bulbs I bought were brand new. They're just a totally new style (lights and bulbs).
That's kind of how I heard it too, no more magnetic, just electronic are being made.
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:09 PM
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..don't know if this will help,but an electricial friend once told me to keep the 8 footers-8 foot apart for maximum coverage..no closer,and no further. Using that formula you could use 3 rows-of 3-8 footers-end to end. You can wire each side (or end..or any other combo) of the shop on a seperate switch to save money when not needed. You may need to make some compromises around the overhead doors if used,..when open they may block some light or even interfere with placement. Might seem overkill..but that formula worked well in my 30x40...but it also looks like a UFO hotspot when everything is on, and I'm sure that wheel on my meter is red-lining..,but rarely do I have everything on at the same time. You can paint the ceiling and walls white to help also. It might help to add a few seperate recessed flood-lites for task lighting..also on independent switches,for areas like over the workbench/welding station,maybe one at the doorway. A couple flood lites outside the overhead doors will help too. ..since your doing the electrical upgrade on the lites, might as well make sure you have "PLENTY" of wall outlets..seems theres never enough..leave room for the 220v welder and another 220v for the air-compressor..Good Luck!
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:19 PM
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:52 PM
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I used roll-up doors, so they don't block the light. I also used 4' tubes, but now I'm wondering if I messed up. My trash has to be bagged, so having 4 foot tubes hauled off is impossible. Also, I don't know of anybody who will take in burned out tubes. So if you're like me, you might be creating an unforeseen head-ache.
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:58 PM
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I don't know the dimensions but my shop is a 4 stall. White ceiling and walls. I run 8ea. 8' X 2 bulb fixtures staggered to disperse the light as much as possible. Works for me and I'm as blind as a bat.
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:54 AM
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I think a lot has to do with the type of work you are planning on. If you do your own body and paint you will want more lighting.

I do mine stem to stern. Have a 26ft by 28ft shop. I run 3 rows of 4 4ft fixtures. I put each row on a seperate switch that way if I am just working on one side of the shop I don't light the entire space.

Also do some research on the bulbs. That choice in my opinion is more important than the fixtures. I used $9.00 Ace hardware fixtures but I spent a couple hundred on bulbs. I use what they consider daylight bulbs. They are a true white light and won't make your white truck appear yellow/pink/blue....

Well you get the point.


Rich
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by carnut122 View Post
I used roll-up doors, so they don't block the light. I also used 4' tubes, but now I'm wondering if I messed up. My trash has to be bagged, so having 4 foot tubes hauled off is impossible. Also, I don't know of anybody who will take in burned out tubes. So if you're like me, you might be creating an unforeseen head-ache.
If you hit them with a hammer they fit into bags quite easily...
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:23 AM
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I've moved my lights 2x because of changes in the garage (new tables or whatever), so if you don't have to hard-wire them, don't. Mine all plug in, making it easy to relocate them.
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:09 AM
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I should have mentioned that as well.

My swithches control outlets in the cieling. All the lights have plug ends installed on them.

Makes it much easier for pulling them down for cleaning as well.


Rich
 

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