Not cranking
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 95
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From: Phoenixville, PA
Not cranking
New member with lots of problems 97 F-250 7.3l diesel won't crank with key no longer have WTS light no Tach when cranking with soleniod. Will run on spray bottle. Checked fuse's Changed fuel filter cleaned regulater screen batteries good. CPS & soleniod ? Bought the truck tuesday ran for 2 days go figure. Please Help
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
WELCOME TO FTE!!!
These guys will get you straightened out.
It sounds like it IS CRANKING but not starting. CPS is what it sounds like to me.
Here are some links you should save to your favorites:
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual
What else are you having problems with?
Where are you from?
These guys will get you straightened out.
It sounds like it IS CRANKING but not starting. CPS is what it sounds like to me.
Here are some links you should save to your favorites:
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual
What else are you having problems with?
Where are you from?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Won't crank (turn over with starter) or won't fire (run)?
If won't fire and no WTS light check fuse #22 under the hood. It powers the PCM and also the fuel filter heater. If the heater shorts out, and it does, then you will get the symptoms you are indicating. If you find fuse #22 blown then unplug the the heater wire on the drivers side of the fuel filter canister, second from the top. Replace the fuse and retry.
If won't fire and no WTS light check fuse #22 under the hood. It powers the PCM and also the fuel filter heater. If the heater shorts out, and it does, then you will get the symptoms you are indicating. If you find fuse #22 blown then unplug the the heater wire on the drivers side of the fuel filter canister, second from the top. Replace the fuse and retry.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
Won't crank (turn over with starter) or won't fire (run)?
If won't fire and no WTS light check fuse #22 under the hood. It powers the PCM and also the fuel filter heater. If the heater shorts out, and it does, then you will get the symptoms you are indicating. If you find fuse #22 blown then unplug the the heater wire on the drivers side of the fuel filter canister, second from the top. Replace the fuse and retry.
If won't fire and no WTS light check fuse #22 under the hood. It powers the PCM and also the fuel filter heater. If the heater shorts out, and it does, then you will get the symptoms you are indicating. If you find fuse #22 blown then unplug the the heater wire on the drivers side of the fuel filter canister, second from the top. Replace the fuse and retry.
No WTS means no power to PCM. PCM power is fed from maxi fuse #22 under the hood. #22 fuse controls the fuel bowl heater.
Did the truck shut off on you and now you can't restart it?
OR
Did you park it and now won't start back up?
Sometimes no tach movement while cranking means bad CPS. BUT the batteries MUST BE fully charged. (weak batteries won't let the tach move and the CPS will be fine).
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Phoenixville, PA
Yes I checked the the fuse and its good the heater may be in question i did not know what it was yesterday when I changed the fuel filter but I solder together the 1.5 round disc's that remained to the wire. Last night did some reading after a long day of running in circle's.Figured out what it was tried my best to get it flat to the round plate also clean the fuel Reg. screen. Im from SE PA Thanks for your help new to the question posting thing to you guys are great!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
Oslo, I would unplug the heater and put a new #22 fuse in, then see what you have. Do you have a fuse on hand?
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Junior User
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From: Phoenixville, PA
The batteries were refurbs 1 month old (seller purchased) 1 failed load test replaced with motor craft 850 crank
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
50 amps is WAY to big! Throw that 50 amp'er away! It should be 20 amps. I would check it with a multimeter. Sometimes it looks good but it is not. That is why I would replace it with another one and leave the heater unplugged. The new/good fuse should give you a WTS light.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 95
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From: Phoenixville, PA
COPEDAWG you got her runnin the meter checked continuity but it was just a thread.I dont have book so the fuse door is misleading I was checking 13 not 22 that is why I said 50 amp. It was really 30 amp still have to jump soleniod with screwdriver but it beats renting a car 2morrow when wife TDI goes in again. She is a Diesel head but at least I bought 1 with some room to work on. Thanks everyone Im going around the block.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Need more information regarding won't crank with key. Do you have an auto or standard transmission. Fuse 9 or 10 in engine compartment protects starter relay but other safeguards are in place depending on transmission.
Way to tell if starter relay on passenger fender is working properly is to pull the top connector (wire) off the relay ... see photo below ... and using a jumper, jump the threaded looking screw to the positive battery terminal. Needless to say use caution as the engine will start cranking if all is working properly.
Way to tell if starter relay on passenger fender is working properly is to pull the top connector (wire) off the relay ... see photo below ... and using a jumper, jump the threaded looking screw to the positive battery terminal. Needless to say use caution as the engine will start cranking if all is working properly.
