Thank you all for your comments, i have no idea what i am doing as far as building motors. i took the block on base to camp lejeune in north carolina, i figured they would have descent prices. i told him i wanted all top of the line stuff and he went through everything with me and what he thought would be a high end motor. i do not intend on racing this truck on a regular basis. however would like to have an occasional weekend trip to the strip. this would not be a daily drive but a weekend cruiser. i will email the man and get a detailed list of part numbers and brand names. i think this guy has been building motors for 30 years but dont know many people around here or at least people that can vouch for him. i would like to save some money if possible and use it in different areas (brakes/suspension). thanks again and will post a detailed list on here of brand names and part numbers.

 

Keep us posted. I'm putting a 351W in my 54 Merc also. Right now my plan is to get it running so that I can get the military to ship it to the east coast where we are posted this summer for the next 3years or so. Supposedly it has to be a runner to be moved. I plan on going with the Edelbrock top end kit from Summit later on when I'm not in a rush. I've read quite a few good reviews about it. My engine experience is very limited as well.

 

Welcome Wakeboarder 32, (aka-Jarhead) Camp Le Jeune means Marines, I spent time at outhouse bay.
The prices are in line for the motor that it sounds like he would be building for you but like said here it may be overkill for how you are going to use the truck. You need to take a serious and realistic look on how it will be used MOST of the time. Don't forget if you build a fast truck you better be able to steer and brake it to keep from hurting yourself or someone else. Figure out what it is you want/need and let us know and we will gladly help.

Thanks for you service, Semper Fi.

 

I appreciate the support its not too bad out here right now i guess it could be worse. I am at Camp Dwyer in the southern portion of Afghanistan (Helmand Province). i was stationed at MCAS New River, i am an Air Traffic Controller. Thanks for the advice on the truck, even for the way i am using the truck would it be a bad thing to have the motor built that way? i mean is too much horsepower bad? I use to have an 03 Lightning and i loved that truck but this motor im sure would be way more beafier than that 5.4. I do see your point about being able to stop and steer with something like that. Do you have any suggestions on kits you can by for suspension? ive looked at a few on ebay, and i know alot of people like the Mustang 2 setup? Thanks again. working on getting a detailed parts list with part numbers and brand names. 351

 

It is common knowledge the more HP you build you sacrafice durability and street manors. I would say you have priced in enough high quality parts that it would last pretty decent, but you can save a mint by taking it down a few notches. You're basically specing a drag motor. Yes...more HP isnt bad, but you should have a general idea of where you want to be HP wise and build to that. The upgraded internals, while nice, and not really needed unless you plan on spinning over 7K with 500HP. Stock Ford internals are pretty stout...I wouldnt be so quick to part ways with them. Different mag articles have prooven that you can crest 400HP with simple bolt ons with SBFs...and they last.

Now...if you have the money to burn...ignore everything I just said and build away.

Your Lightning was quick...but it also weighed in at 4,500 pounds. I had a '99...loved it. There was a good reason Ford (SVT) went with a blown 5.4...you don't sacrafice drivability or durability with a low compression/blown application. A friend of mine builds turbo V-6 GM's for a hobby. His current summer time daily driver is a white '86 Camaro with a stage II 3.8 that runs 10's all day. It has amazing street manors for a 10 second car. No cam lobe, no super high idle...just nice and smooth...no shake at all. It all changes when he hits the trans brake and lets the turbo spool.

 

Good luck over there - If you want to look at front ends try "No Limit Engineering" - they have a beefed up Mustang II front suspension that we bought for our truck. Very nice - lowers it a bit even with the stock format.
I went with coilovers - kind of wish I had done airbags. Approx. $3K so they aren't cheap. A lot of guys have scrounged up Jaguar front ends at salvage yards & put those in - It's all a question of how much work you want to put into it via sweat or pay for someone else's more finished product.

Ben D. in Austin

 

Yes and no...it is all in how you build the power and the weapons you choose. You even point this out and contradict yourself with your example of ya friends turbo-6. There is always a point of diminishing returns though of course.


I'll agree with you here mostly except 351W rods even the football rods are weak and should be swapped for some i-beams. The stock crank and block can be good into the 600hp range. Also 408W with big aluminium heads that doesn't spin past 6K is far from a drag motor. You get a good custom cam guy and that thing will have great street manners. The only thing that makes it less street friendly is the ridiculous power it will make.


As opposed to what?

Your going to use a 3.8 V6 boosted car that runs 10's as an example of reliability, durable, and street friendly... How many psi does he pump through that motor?

 

To answer that question....alot. Actually its not the PSI that he gains power from, it is CFM. PSI is only half the equation when dealing with boosted vehicles, but it is often forgot about. He is running a 5" down pipe to an air/water intercooler...it pushes a lot of air. If it pleases the masses, I can get some pics. He did a nice job...even for a GM.

It is no secret to those that know me that I prefer to use stock Ford castings in my builds...stock, mild or otherwise. I most often get ragged on for using ported and warmed over stock Ford heads. I also don't use 351's...so I digress to those that obviously know more than I do about them as I was unaware of a connecting rod issue.

 

Honestly, when it comes down to the nitty gritty of things. The street manners will mainly be determined by the custom cam grind. Just make sure to let the cam guy know EXACTLY how you want your motor to work for you. Make sure he knows you want it to be a comfy cruiser that can hit the strip when the mood hits you right. All the other components will just beef up the engine and make it more reliable for the most part. If the guy building the motor has as many years in as he says he does, you are probably in good hands. Hopefully...

 

The front suspension choice will depend alot on if you are doing the work or paying for it and how big your account is when you get state side. I will not argue with horsepower or in reality torque when you want the throw you back in the seat feeling, but I hate to see people make the mistakes I and others have made. The hottest engine in the world ain't worth crap if your truck ends up getting wrecked to other weak issues. I say build a decent street engine to enjoy in the truck as you improve on other things I mentioned. When the the truck carves corners and stops on a dime and gives you change back then if you want build the bad *** motor you want and you can easily sell the old one. That is just my opinion, which is like chevys and as***oles, seems like everyone has one.

If you ever want you can always PM me. Semper Fi.

 

The guy at the machine shop emailed me back and told me this:

The crankshaft is a Scat 8000 series crankshaft (4340 light weight).
The connecting rods are Scat as well; H-Beam with the 7/16 cap screws
pistons are JE/SRP.

All the good stuff. These components are rated up to 1000 HP. Over kill, but provides some forgiveness. Cylinder heads will be Dart, HVH or Brodix. The decision factor will be - what is the best available at the time we order them. Believe it or not, the aftermarket manufactures are at a constant battle to stay out front. I will get you the best available at that time, price stays the same.

Are these brands good? and as far as heads are those brands good? Any help much appreciated!

 

Wondering if and what parts i should change out to save some money, unless everyone thinks this will be a good set up? which heads are better or are they all about the same?

 

Wondering if and what parts i should change out to save some money, unless everyone thinks this will be a good set up? which heads are better or are they all about the same?

 

to me, for $5500 I would head over to the FORD dealership, or call JEGS or SUMMIT and order up a FRPP crate motor.... 408W long block for about that money.. and comes with a FORD WARRANTY

 

It sounds lke the guy is building you a very nice, all out race engine. That's fine if that's what you want. If you aren't looking for that last hundreth of a second, any of those heads will get the job done. My only concern would be that it may be too radical for good street driving. So you really need to decide what your main use of the truck will be. If it's just a fun driver for the weekend, that can be done with an Edelbrock package on a basically stock 351 for half the money. Anyone can go drag racing with a stock engine in a stock vehicle and have a fun evening. It may not turn 11's, but you can still have fun. But if what you want is a nasty, rumbling ground pounder, that's fine, too, and that's what you'll be getting with your current build plan.

My advice would be to have a frank discussion with yourself about what you really want, then have that same discussion with your engine guy. Together, you should be able to formulate a plan that will make you happy for a long time.