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93 f150 4x4 auto 351 ecm is dealer obsolete part. ebay has some but the last 2 letters are different. ford says wont work. why and will one work? my # f2tf 12a 650cc what is the cc and why would diff letters not work ? thanks for any an all help
That number you listed is a Ford part number for the PCM. The last part "CC" is what determines the calibration of the programming inside the box. Your part of F2TF-12A650-CC is designed to work on a F-series truck with a 5.8L engine/E4OD transmission with Federal emissions.
At the time these trucks were produced there were several variations of calibrations for the PCM. The main differences would be Federal/California/High Altitude emissions as well as different engine/transmission combinations.
NAPA carries Standard Motor products rebuilt PCMs. Their part number for a direct replacement is EM885. The price I see online is approx. $175 USD. The core charge is $78.
Before spending that kind of $$$, let us know what issue you are trying to resolve.
The problem is hi idle I unplug the air mix. valve it idles down so I replaced the part twice and its still not correct. So its not the air control valve/switch.
I wrote this reply in another post.
I do not know if this will help you, but my truck idle's at around 2000 rpms. When I got it the seller said that was normal, bull----. I replaced ever sensor, upper intake gasket, vaccuum hoses, check codes and it stills does it. I have been all over the internet and find people with the same problem but no answers. What I discovered about a month after I got it, if I hit the gas (rev the motor for a brief second) right when the motor starts running, the idle goes down to normal about 98% of the time. If it still idle's high I just repeat the above step. I been doing this for 2 years and 15,000 miles. I think mine is the computer, but I am to cheap to replace it. I figure I just keep driven it until it breaks down. It cound also be one of the new sensors I replaced was bad when I got them.(autozone brand)
We can help you with the codes if you need it. The most common cause of a high idle is a bad TPS, sticking throttle cable or IAC and vacuum leaks. Any and all of the plastic vacuum lines and metal reservoirs are suspect before proven innocent.
We had some kind of vacuum tester, prob got borrowed but you should be able to pull a vac line and literally suck on it and see if it holds your tongue for a few seconds at least.
My vac lines are patched in about 3 different places with see thru fuel line and for some reason they don't collapse and no clamps necessary.
I think there was also somethng about cleaning the idle valve area since a new one will still have to deal with the crud plugging something or other and may not change anything with a new one.