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I have a 78 f150 with the 351m. It has a 2bbl carb. I have tuned it up and it runs real smooth and has pretty good power. The carb has been rebuilt but it just wont idle in the mornings to warm up. Sometime when im turning in a road it will just die out of the blue. It starts right back up but i want to get it right. I dont have the cash to buy a 4bbl intake and carb right now but in the near future i will. Im thnking now of just getting a rebuilt motorcraft from advance auto parts. What do you thnk ive heard alot people say they hate holleys. I dont have and opinion really, i like edlebrock but i honestly dont know whats best. Im not going to buy a 2bbl edlebrock though. I will get a edlebrock when i do the intake swap. Whats you guys opinions on carbs and on my problem. Thanks everybody!!!
Sounds like you just need to adjust the choke to me. And as far as the brands well its just like trucks there is good ones and bad ones in all brands. Ive seen some real good Quadrajets but i never could get one to run right on my truck.
Sounds like you either have an adjustment issue with the mixture screws or two other issues. Could be the choke adjustment is not right and the float level could be too low. Adjust the idle mixture first if you can.
Not an uncommon complaint on these old carbed engines. It is hard to get them to stay running when the temperatures are cold. Adjust the choke. And if and when you think you are gaining something by going to a carb and manifold "upgrade" be prepaired for carb icing.
Hey there 2010. Where in Virginia?? Don't forget to join the VA Chapter. All of the above are good suggestions. How's the fuel filter. Both my 86 & 87 have 4v Holleys and do take a while to warm up.
I agree with Joseph69. Had the same problem on my 77, was float adjustment and had to replace choke assembly. I've had Holleys on my older Fords and I liked how easy they were to work on.
The warmup issue sounds like the choke is out of adjustment; the dying on turns is because the float height is off (too little fuel in the bowl). Both need to be adjusted. A remanufactured carburetor is only going to need that, as well as other adjustments.
And if and when you think you are gaining something by going to a carb and manifold "upgrade" be prepaired for carb icing.
I haven't had an issue with carb icing since I got rid of the 2bbl....thats because I found out the cold air intake duct that was part of the original air cleaner was force feeding cold air right to the carb.
I had real bad carb icing problems with the 2150 on my old 2.8 V6 Ranger, poor cold idle, dieing as soon as you take foot off the gas coming off the freeway on cold damp mornings.
I scrapped the factory air cleaner and air intake duct, went to a plain old open filter, chrome air cleaner............no more carb icing ever!......guess the underhood heat takes care of that.
I had real bad carb icing problems with the 2150 on my old 2.8 V6 Ranger, poor cold idle, dieing as soon as you take foot off the gas coming off the freeway on cold damp mornings.
I scrapped the factory air cleaner and air intake duct, went to a plain old open filter, chrome air cleaner............no more carb icing ever!......guess the underhood heat takes care of that.
That's really ironic, because the factory air cleaner is designed to prevent icing, and the chrome air cleaner is susceptible to it. The factory air cleaner has a temperature switch and a vacuum-operated warm air diverter door to draw warm air from the exhaust manifold heat riser. Once the engine bay is warm enough, outside air is drawn in from the duct. Yours must have been non-functional (very common with age), and drawing in underhood air from all directions with your new setup must somehow be helping.
I was astonished as well, all seemed to be in working order.....yet the problem persisted until the factory air cleaner went away.
I am thinking the large metallic mass of the factory aircleaner may have been attracting condensation and making the icing problem come about?