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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:36 PM
  #16  
Flexfuel-Dave's Avatar
Flexfuel-Dave
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From: Central, MA
Originally Posted by Otahyoni
How did you discover that 99F150?

I ran some seafoam in the gas, maybe i need something a little stronger...

I'll hook up the vac gauge and see what happens.
Reading your vacuum gauge

The gage can help determine if there are any internal issues.

Keep us posted. We all learn from these episodes!
 
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #17  
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Some test results:

Coil primary resistance was 0.6-0.8 Ω
Coil secondary resistance was 14.33-14.88 kΩ

#1 injector resistance was 14.9Ω
#2 was 14.8Ω
#3 was 14.8Ω
#4 was 14.7Ω
Manual says 12-16Ω

The spark plugs 1-4 on the exhaust side and 1-2 on the intake side are new Champions. 3&4 on the intake side were Autolite Platinums and considerably worn.




Question: Could this be the source of my miss? I would think the exhaust side plugs would make up the difference, but the primary side plug on that coil was a little loose and moved up and down, possibly meaning its broken? Not making a good connection all the time??

Vac test results:

Slight miss at 0:19, and again at 1:00 and 1:07 and 1:17. Stalls at the end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnOzM4UvNaw
 
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 05:07 PM
  #18  
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exhaust side plugs fire when the exhaust valve is open. its a afterburn that just helps burn the remaining vapor before it hits the cat. you think about running some lucas in the oil? chance that one of the valves is sticking a little and not sealing up.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #19  
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I've got it, just need to drain a quart off and put it in. It's got a slight, i'm hesitant to say knock, that gets quieter when it warms up. Didn't do it before the oil change. I'm hoping the lucas stabilizer takes it back out...
 
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #20  
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the old plugs could have a effect on the running ! the plugs on the exhaust side are there for emissions only !
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 12:56 AM
  #21  
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I thought that's what the waste spark deal was for... hmmm... well, i already bought that coil, so i'll put it on and see where it gets me...

I really thought the plugs fired in tandem at each cylinder...
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 07:06 AM
  #22  
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Have read posts from some knowledgeable folks in the forum that the 2.3 with the waste spark (8 plug) setup runs best with the Double Platinums. Walmart stocks the Autolite (APP104) at a good cost if you want to try a hopefully inexpensive solution prior to coil replacement. In one of your posts you mentioned that one of the plugs had some movement. That sounds like maybe it got dropped before installing and broke insulator which could definitely be the source of your miss.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #23  
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I'm going to get 8 APP104 plugs tomorrow and put everything back together.

Should i put the new coil on the intake side or the exhaust side? The one with the loose plug is the exhaust side pack...
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 06:19 PM
  #24  
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Try installing the plugs first and see if that corrects it before changing out coil. If I had to take a guess looking at your pic of the two plugs the one on right might well be the source of all your trouble. The size of that gap looks like it could cause a misfire.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 06:40 AM
  #25  
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Sounds like a plan... now i just hope it stops raining...
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 10:21 AM
  #26  
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I had a 02 2.5 as well. and the plugs are a pain. Had to take off the upper intake just to change them. But yes i would concur with most of the people here. Change the plugs before anything else. Also might want to pick up some wires. they aren't that expensive and better to change them with the plugs. if that doesn't do it, i would replace the intake coil first, no change move it to the exhaust coil. As a side note, i have been told to never use champions in ANYTHING but a Chrysler. for some reason they don't run good. and avoid bosh. Autolights are good, so are the motorcrafts.
I think gap on those should be 0.044.

Also, just as a thought, you might want to try letting it warm up, then spray some starting fluid around in the engine compartment, (away from the intake) just to make sure there are no vacuum leaks. you would be surprised how sneaky those can be.

best of luck
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #27  
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before you do the starting fluid trick, grab a tip off a spray paint can and swap tips. the starting fluid spray tip will shoot a steady stream, not so helpful when your testing for leaks. the spray paint tip will mist it and cover a large area without waste.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:47 PM
  #28  
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I'm beginning to wonder if i had a vacuum leak to start with...

I replaced the rear 2 intake plugs and put everything back together. Started as normal, but if i snapped the throttle open it would rev up and on the way back down it would stall. Seemed to go away a little as it warmed up.

Test drive went well with no problems. Even seemed to have more power.

I put the new coil on the intake side and move that coil to the exhaust side.

Now i'm wondering if something is wrong with the #4 injector. When i snapped the throttle it would miss on the way down and for a couple seconds, then go away... I say #4 because with the cracked manifold it's very easy to listen to it fire...

I think the next step is to wait til my code reader gets here and see if anything shows up. Maybe test the fuel pressure too...
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
before you do the starting fluid trick, grab a tip off a spray paint can and swap tips. the starting fluid spray tip will shoot a steady stream, not so helpful when your testing for leaks. the spray paint tip will mist it and cover a large area without waste.

good idea, never thought of that.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #30  
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Forgot to add:

While it was running i spray short burst of carb cleaner were the two halves join and around all the vacuum lines, no changes in rpm tell me no leaks...
 
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