Well I have cut and sliced my drivers door gasket until I am just sick! All that $$ is now thin riboons on the floor. The door shut so nice and was perty flush the whole way around excpet fot the bottom rear corner and shut & clicked so nicely before this all started. You goota slam it two/three times to shut and really push the button to get it open. I dont even want to start on the pass door because I dont know what to do.

 

Where did you get your door seals? I need to replace mine and I don't want to have the same problems. I have heard that Dennis Carpenter makes quality seals that fit like original. Is there anywhere else I should look.

 

I too am going to be replacing my door seals soon. The ones sold right here in the online "Parts Shop" in the upper right corner come highly recommended they cost $70 for both doors. Soon as I sell this washer and dryer I got taking up space in my garage they're mine.
P.S. anybody want a good used washer and dryer.

 

When I get the doors from my '66 ready to put on my '65, I too will be getting new door seals.

Why, I ask, are the seals on my '65 on the cab frame, and the seals on my '66 on the door? Which is correct?

 

On the door are correct. Someone must have thought they were inproving on an old idea. There are holes in the bottom of the door to align the seals with and the clips to help secure the seal are screwed to the door.

 

I recently installed door seals from Dennis-Carpenter on my 64 F100 and had excellent results. They fit perfectly and I have no complaints.

 

The old seal I removed from the door I replaced had a wire running at the base of it. Every 4" or so the wire stuck out in a spade shaped loop these loops snapped into small slots cut in the door. Will the replacement seals have this wire or do I have to glue them on? The seals I'm buying will come from the site parts store. I've seen other post that talk about the air relief holes but no mention of the wire.

 

The wire is completely enclosed in the rubber seal. It is there to provide support for the nipples that plug into the holes in the bottom of the door.
Start by installing the seal at the bottom (make sure you have the correct seal) push the posts lightly into the holes but not all the way.
Now wrap the seal around the door in both directions.
Do not trim the excess yet.
Secure the loose ends with masking tape temporarily.
Now open your adhesive tube and apply am even 1/8" bead to the bottom of the seal, be sure to get some on the posts of the rubber.
Push them into the bottom of the door.
Now work your way around the latch side, stop short of the lower clip screwed to the door.
repaet the procedure up the hinge side, over the window and down the latch side. again, stop short of the lower clip screwed to the door.
Let this set for an hour or so so you don't pull the seal off.
Once dry, trim both ends to butt against each other flush and in the middle of the lower clip.
cement together and let dry. Do not glue to the door yet. Once dry, attatch to door with more cement and crimp all clips onto the seal.

Before closing the doors, make sure your seal is not rolled over or bunched up. If you did well, the door will close securely with little effort. This assumes the door strikers were not adjusted previously.

 

I have to do seals on my 64 f100...are there any magic glue removers out there that make clean up of the old seals on door frame easier. I have used things like "gasket remover" before with good luck, but is there anything better?

Ed

 

What are these "DOOR CLIPS" you are talking about????

 

Ed, I used laquer thinner and a plastic scrapper to remove most of the adhesive the first time, then I sprayed the seal area with primer to protect the bare metal areas. Once the seal was in, I couldn't see but a liitle bit of the primer.

JC, Here a couple of pics for you to look at. The clips are usually still there on most of the trucks I have seen in the salvage yards if yours are missing.