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Dana 60 Swap Progress

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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #31  
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I've decided to go with a dana 60 rear end swap as well. I tried out a 16 inch rim on the front just to see how it'd look, but I think it doesn't look quite right.. too small. Are the f-2 rims going to look "taller" like the f-3 split rims, or is a 16 inch rim just a 16 inch rim?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 07:43 PM
  #32  
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Here is my F-2, with stock 16 inch wheels and tires.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #33  
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I do like that look.. Does anyone have pictures of the 16 inch rims on an F3? I'm under the impression that the wheel arches are different between the two
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:00 PM
  #34  
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Skirouled!,
I don't have the rubber mounted on my 16" rims yet, so I can't help you with that. Someone posted a picture not to long ago of an F3 with 16 inch rims and 205/85/16s mounted. I forget the thread but maybe someone else can chime in on that. I think the fender wells are the same for F2 and F3s?

Dan
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #35  
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I found the link. It was 215/85/16s not 205s. Anyway, here is the thread.
Hope this helps.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...heel-help.html

Dan
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 12:08 PM
  #36  
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I am wanting to do this also got any pictures?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 05:22 PM
  #37  
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Now that we have derailed the thread, are there any updates on the Dana 60 swap?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 08:56 PM
  #38  
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Looks like I will finally get to spend some time on the swap next week. I plan to see about swapping out the e-brake cables and get the driveshaft out to get shortened.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 09:14 AM
  #39  
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Have you had a chance to work with the Dana 60 swap?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 09:33 AM
  #40  
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I am having a heck of a time trying to get the brake drum off the Timken. I got frustrated so just left it for awhile.
Anyone have any hints?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ArmyFord
I am having a heck of a time trying to get the brake drum off the Timken. I got frustrated so just left it for awhile.
Anyone have any hints?
Have you adjusted the shoes back away from the drum as much as possible? I don't know about the Timken, but many drums have small screws to hold the drum to the axle until the lugs are installed with the wheel, make sure there aren't any hidden by rust.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #42  
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I have taken off the screws, but haven't gotten to the shoes yet. It feels as if there is something more holding it. I was wondering if there is more bolts/screws to take off first?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 12:42 PM
  #43  
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If they sit awhile, the metallic strands in the shoes will rust to the drum. I once got a car really cheap because "the transaxle was locked up". It was just the e-brake had been left on and the shoes were bonded to the drums. I rev'd it up, dumped the clutch, and drove off. PO was pissed..

BTW, measuring the difference in axle centerlines to the yoke will not be accurate for determining new driveshaft length. This is the only accurate way: Dennys Driveshaft How To Measure Correctly for driveshafts that fit right
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 07:59 PM
  #44  
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I had the same problem on my F2. It has been a while but if I remember correctly this is what I did. Take a right angle grinder and cut the heads off the pins. Also remove all attaching hardware (Nuts ect.) on backing plate. Than take a BIG hammer and drive the drum off. It is not going to be easy. If your drums are like mine, they have a huge ridge and many grooves.

Good Luck,
Paul
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 02:53 PM
  #45  
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Thanks all for the advice. I'll keep plugging away at it as I have the time.
 
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