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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

The TTB Thread

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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:07 AM
  #16  
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I found the guys contact info on envio fuel. Is that the link you meant to send as he doesn't list it on there. Also I searched the CL adds and found a 1978 Ford F250 lift kit with the leaf springs for 275. I don't know if it will work or not.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by glovemeister
Can I purchase and or have them made with the Rough Country kit?
Yeah, if you already have your kit you can fab them up or buy them. You might also check for them used. If you haven't gotten a kit yet tho, I'd just buy the extended set.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:27 AM
  #18  
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I haven't bought a lift kit just yet. I'm going to paint my truck this weekend and a few other small things.

So should I just suck it up and buy a super lift or skyjacker? Also from what I've heard I do not want blocks so any idea what kit doesn't have them, with the extended radius arms. I am thinking that with the proper lift kit without blocks, while having all the drop down stuff will prevent any tire eating issues with proper alignment. I'm also adding dual steering stabilizers, any negatives to them?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 04:04 AM
  #19  
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This thread makes me wish I'd have held onto my ttb44 out of my 85 bronco frame! I wanna try that D50 stub shaft conversion! I might just have to do that to the old D44 under my 84! I will say this though, I think the coil sprung ttb axles are much more functional/practical than the goofy leaf sprung ones like I currently have.

Just out of curiousity, I have a 4" superlift I ganked from my brother-in-laws old 87 ranger (went to the scrap yard). Didn't grab the radius arm drop brackets as they were diff from fullsize drop brackets anyway. I know the springs will bolt up, but I'm not 100% sure (LOOKS like it'd work) will the ttb drop brackets front the ranger bolt up to a fullsize? Is there any strength differences between the two? I can't really see a company like that making two different thicknesses of the same bracket if one will simply bolt to the other. I could be wrong though...
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 04:08 AM
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Oh, also curious...is this thread in the "tech, tips, & tricks"? If not, I think it ought to be. Some seriously neat and useful info here. Be a shame to have to search for it in the old threads 6 months from now
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 04:11 AM
  #21  
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Crap, sorry to be posting 1,000,000 times. FWIW, my drop bracket question between ranger/fullsize lift kit pertains to the F-150/Bronco TTB. I know the leaf sprung variety will not work.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by glovemeister
I found the guys contact info on envio fuel. Is that the link you meant to send as he doesn't list it on there. Also I searched the CL adds and found a 1978 Ford F250 lift kit with the leaf springs for 275. I don't know if it will work or not.
I had to call him. It was still installed when I saw it a couple weeks ago, so it was complete; even has a drop pitman arm. The only blocks are on the rear suspension; they replace the stock ones that have the big tongue shaped piece off the side that hits the rubber bumpers and limits your suspension travel. Dana 50 ttb only needs drop brackets for the traction beams - radius arms are only on half ton/coil sprung setups.
A 78 front suspension is an entirely different animal.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 10:07 AM
  #23  
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Yeah he wants me to bring my stock suspension down to him so we can bolt it back up. Problem is I haven't pulled it and yet. Why didn't yall grab it? I figure for $200 bucks though its a pretty good deal without shipping especially.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #24  
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Great thread idea Chump! It gets kind of old trying to explain to all my friends who tell me to SAS my truck why i'm not gonna do that, and explaining to them how the TTB is not crap, when it's been drilled into their head by a bunch of other ignorant idiots that it is.

Ford did NOT send 1980-1996 F150's, F250's, and Broncos out of the factory with alignment issues. So, it has nothing to do with Ford at all. Most of the time the reason a TTB cannot be aligned correctly is due to worn parts, alignment tech ignorance, or parts not designed to correctly keep the TTB in line.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by glovemeister
Yeah he wants me to bring my stock suspension down to him so we can bolt it back up. Problem is I haven't pulled it and yet. Why didn't yall grab it? I figure for $200 bucks though its a pretty good deal without shipping especially.
I wasn't really looking to lift my truck cause I'd like to eventually put a Dana60 in it, but I just can't justify spending that much money on my truck for what I would consider a fairly minor improvement. I'll probably just keep the TTB for a while.
Now you got me thinking about it................I bet I could fit some 37's with that 4" lift................
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #26  
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As far as I know if you want 36+ tires you need a 6inch, and then you can run 35x12.5 with a 4 inch lift. I'm sure you can cut fenders and such but that looks really ugly to me and I could never cut on my truck like that. However, if you nab it let me know so I won't try.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #27  
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The only real drawback to the TTB vs SAS is the camber changes during suspension travel. Of course, this also occurs on the TIB used under 2wd Ford trucks.
I still don't understand why the F250/350 TTB used leaf springs, while the TIB under the same GVW 2wd trucks used coils. It is my opinion that the leafs are the cause of more issues with the 250/350 TTB, as leafs are not really meant to handle the unique way the axle halves travel in an arc. Leafs are fine when used with a SAS, but coils are better under a TTB due to the arc travel pattern.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:45 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by glovemeister
I haven't bought a lift kit just yet. I'm going to paint my truck this weekend and a few other small things.

So should I just suck it up and buy a super lift or skyjacker? Also from what I've heard I do not want blocks so any idea what kit doesn't have them, with the extended radius arms. I am thinking that with the proper lift kit without blocks, while having all the drop down stuff will prevent any tire eating issues with proper alignment. I'm also adding dual steering stabilizers, any negatives to them?
I'd spend sometime searching and reading peoples experiences with different lifts. I \know most people complain about the stiffness of the coils that come with most lift kits. JBG sells a SuperFlex kit with all the bells and whistles, but with that the rear leaf spring rate is soft and your truck will be useless for towing. Lots of variables involved really. I'd think about what you want to do with your truck and go from there.

If you're worried about blocks, a lot of the kits have different stages (blocks, add-a-leafs, or full packs). Another route you can go is a shackle flip and I'd recommend getting them through Ruffstuff. I've bought a few things from them, all quality, and these shackles are on my buy list for the Dumpster project.

As for stabilizers, I like them. I had the fun misfortune of riding with someone who had a tire blowout on their boat of a truck going 80mph down the highway... I firmly believe his use of a stabilizer helped us not get killed. They're good at dampening the bump steer that our trucks tend to have wen lifted. They're not good as a band-aid for suspension issues.

Originally Posted by blucollar4xford
This thread makes me wish I'd have held onto my ttb44 out of my 85 bronco frame! I wanna try that D50 stub shaft conversion! I might just have to do that to the old D44 under my 84! I will say this though, I think the coil sprung ttb axles are much more functional/practical than the goofy leaf sprung ones like I currently have.

Just out of curiousity, I have a 4" superlift I ganked from my brother-in-laws old 87 ranger (went to the scrap yard). Didn't grab the radius arm drop brackets as they were diff from fullsize drop brackets anyway. I know the springs will bolt up, but I'm not 100% sure (LOOKS like it'd work) will the ttb drop brackets front the ranger bolt up to a fullsize? Is there any strength differences between the two? I can't really see a company like that making two different thicknesses of the same bracket if one will simply bolt to the other. I could be wrong though...
Honestly, I don't know. I'd crawl under your truck and check it out. Take some measurements and see if they'll work. Hillbilly tech =
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #29  
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I'll prolly just check when I take the "sheet metal" TIB out of my F100. It's getting a mono-beam D44 and 38" hawgs cuz it's what I have laying around. I'll bet it will work, I'll try to "dummy" bolt it in and take a couple pics for this thread if I can remember and if I can get the pics to load (doing everything from an iPhone)

btw 'chump, do you happen to still have the "F350" badges for your 80? If so what would you want for them?

btw, 35x12.50's will fit on a stock 3/4 ton and 38's will squeeze in with a 4" lift, OR (seen it, but don't reccommend) a 3" body lift and some fender trimming. But I think you're dead on with the lift/tire ratio on 1/2 ton vehicles.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:19 PM
  #30  
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ARG! ******* iPhone!....got my post all screwed up

once again, forgot to mention to glovemiester; superlift coils are pretty stiff, not only by reputation, but that's the 4" kit I mentioned stealing from a dying ranger. It rode a lot like a stock 3/4 ton....still kinda nice, but very....umm....firm. I don't imagine it'd be a great kit for hardcore trailing. Mudbogging would prolly be fine tho
 
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