1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Need a little Advice from you guys.

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Old 02-16-2011, 06:21 PM
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Need a little Advice from you guys.

I found a '97 CC PowerStroke, short bed, 80k miles, 5 speed manual, i guess a d60 conversion. It has recently had the HPOP and (LPOP?), PCM, replaced. I think he said new GPR installed also but cant remember. In the pictures it has a 6'' lift which he took off and is no longer on the truck. I really like the truck and i think it is worth the $8500 dollars he is asking, but i wanted some of you guys' opinions on the truck. im going to look at and drive it this weekend so i can get back to you on how it handles, feels, looks ect. I havent owned a powerstroke yet but have been around them quite a bit, Im wondering what key things you guys look at before you decide to purchase one. Thanks for the help fellas. i cant figure out how to make the pics any bigger sorry.
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:00 PM
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Never heard of having to replace hpop and lpop at 80k but I suppose its possible. If it's in good shape its well worth 8500 imo. Up here craigslist had 2 on the other day, both 350 4 doors with 120k+, one was 12,500, other was 13k I believe. Both 97 automatics. Real popular around here.

Truck looks like it probably looks real good without the lift. There's a checklist running around somewhere maybe someone will post up.
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by freedawg_101
I found a '97 CC PowerStroke, short bed, 80k miles, 5 speed manual, i guess a d60 conversion. It has recently had the HPOP and (LPOP?), PCM, replaced. I think he said new GPR installed also but cant remember. In the pictures it has a 6'' lift which he took off and is no longer on the truck. I really like the truck and i think it is worth the $8500 dollars he is asking, but i wanted some of you guys' opinions on the truck. im going to look at and drive it this weekend so i can get back to you on how it handles, feels, looks ect. I havent owned a powerstroke yet but have been around them quite a bit, Im wondering what key things you guys look at before you decide to purchase one. Thanks for the help fellas. i cant figure out how to make the pics any bigger sorry.
Sounds like trouble. Stay away, but give me the link so I can buy it

To me it sounds like there was an engine problem and he took it to an idiot to get it fixed and is tired of spending money on it. Look things over real good, check the intake for any signs of dirt and check for blow by. You might have just found yourself the deal of the decade. Pick up a lotto ticket before your luck changes.

Originally Posted by 427 fordman
Never heard of having to replace hpop and lpop at 80k
and a PCM. Someone was throwing parts at it hoping to get lucky. Too bad the owner wasn't a member here. Could have saved a bunch of money and might have kept the truck. Probably something simple like an IPR (that got replaced with the HPOP)
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:39 PM
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F350-6, I must Have misplaced that link somewhere, Sorry. He did mention that he bought it from a friend and it wouldnt start, a fuel issue if i remember right.

Thanks for the help guys. Hopefully that checklist pops up here!
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:43 PM
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Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:

Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:

If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:

Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:

The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:

If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:54 PM
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Awesome FORDPRIDE, appreciate you posting that, I will print it off and take it with me this weekend.

I have been reading about the 6637 filter kit, does it replace the recalled air box parts or is the 6637 just the filter and no houseing?
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:54 PM
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Exclamation

To good to be true. The front bumper called my attention, why is it changed?

Be careful.

But as Chris said: You might have just found yourself the deal of the decade.
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:07 PM
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WAY to much snow on it!...that stuff will just weigh it down!!!...wait for a "spring" or "summer" truck!....
I don't see anything wrong with it. Has the "air box" been recalled???...regardless....6637 and DP for starters....after reprogramming the radio staion (s)....{(s )is becasue you are in Alaska and I ASSuME there is only one station}...lol just razzen ya!
WELCOME to the 7.3 OBS side
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:20 PM
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I thought the same on the "to good to be true" thing. it always happens to me, but im still going to check it out.

The bumper caught my eye also, does it look like a 94.5-97 bumper? And whats with the gap, maybe a body lift?

I will defenitly do the 6637 and DP, as for the Radio Station Programming i will program the AM and FM that way I can Have the 2 stations we get up here.
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:23 PM
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It's a F150 bumper

This is the 6637 sorry Brownie your the only one i know with a pic of it
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by fordpride
It's a F150 bumper

This is the 6637 sorry Brownie your the only one i know with a pic of it
X2 on the bumper. and here is a another pic of the Tymar vs stock set up
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:48 PM
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I see a crocked (and incorrect) bumper, very badly dented passenger rear quarter panel and some pretty big scratches on the passenger side. If that is close to the actual condition its way too much money regardless of mileage. Watch for rust on the upper rear wheel arches and the rocker panel section of the front fenders.

PS-Judging from a poorly attached front license plate I would guess there is a fair amount of cobbling on that truck.
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:13 PM
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Id offer him 6 grand. These guys are right it appears to be geeked on a lil bit. I paid 4500 for mine. It had 200k on it but a new tranny and a one owner truck i also knew the guy and he is in his 50's and took great care of everything he owned. No dings or scratches on it other then the tail gate. The truck was bone stock when i got it also and you can see it now. I have put a bit of money in it but besides normal wear and tear of things going wrong that you would expect on a truck with a quarter million miles it runs great.
 
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:36 PM
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You know, I showed my Wife a picture of the truck and the first thing she noticed was that dent in the rear quarter panel. I hadnt even noticed that until she pointed it out to me, then you guys noticed it too. WOW.

I talked to the Owner the other day and he told me the scratches that are on the door looked worse in the pics then they actually were (but he is trying to sell it so he would say that).

You guys maybe right about the cobbling together. i will see it thursday or friday so i will let you know.
THANKS FTE!!!
 
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by freedawg_101
I thought the same on the "to good to be true" thing. it always happens to me, but im still going to check it out.

The bumper caught my eye also, does it look like a 94.5-97 bumper? And whats with the gap, maybe a body lift?
Not only that, why did they put a bumper from a gas powered truck on it?
 


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