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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

FRONT U-JOINT REPLACEMENT

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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by excavator
I use a wide thin chisel when I seperate the spindle.
What Jim said ,^^^^.. It will not come off easy . Use never seeze when you put it back on ....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #17  
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When you get to the spindle removal, I use a brass hammer and tap the spindle on all sides until it breaks free. I hit the spindle in between where the bearings ride. With a brass hammer you dont damage anything. You do need to be careful not to hit on the fine threads on the end. Dont try to get it all at once. Hit on all sides until it frees up, sometimes it is easy other times it's not.

You do not need to loosen ball joints
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:11 PM
  #18  
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I don't understand why any one would give that kind of advice to a novice...



If you hit the spindle with anything ,without a way to make sure it is still round when you re assemble it , you are asking for trouble .. If you don't have the proper tool for this , DO NOT HIT THE SPINDLE WITH ANYTHING, use a chisel behind the flange ..
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:04 PM
  #19  
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Don't use a chisel between the knuckle and the spindle. Those are precision machined surface and you will cause deformation of either the spindle and or knuckle.
here is an article that will explain everything. They use a metal hammer and a magazine to protect the spindle for me I use a large dead blow hammer and no magazine.
just don't hit the threaded area of the spindle or the area where the bearings ride. to locate the bearing riding location then you will take your inner and outer bearing and place them on the spindle and where they stop is where they ride.
1997 Ford F350 Axle Repair - Dana 60 Front Axle - Diesel Power Magazine
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #20  
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yeah, the chisel thing didn't even budge it ( i wasn't trying too hard, as i didn't want to damage anything), so i think i'll just stick to beating the crap outta it! (not on the threads of course)
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #21  
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This is silly....You must have never done this before 36 908 ...If you do not have the proper tool to hit the spindle , do not hit it . the surface behind the spindle can be repaired with a grinder. GMAB .... Precision
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by f350rebel7788
yeah, the chisel thing didn't even budge it ( i wasn't trying too hard, as i didn't want to damage anything), so i think i'll just stick to beating the crap outta it! (not on the threads of course)
If you use the proper tool , you can ...

Other wise , use a chisel ...It is far from a precision surface ....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
This is silly....You must have never done this before 36 908 ...If you do not have the proper tool to hit the spindle , do not hit it . the surface behind the spindle can be repaired with a grinder. GMAB .... Precision
Yeah I have never done it before...that’s why I am giving this guy advice. You show me a technical manual from ford, Chevy, or dodge showing you taking the spindle off with a chisel then I will tell you that your right, until then you are wrong. If you use a steel harmer then you can f*&% up the spindle if you use a brass or dead blow hammer then you won't. 20 lb sledge bad, dead blow or brass good. You GMAB on precision. those surface on the back of the spindle and knukle are machined surfaces. All the spindles I have ever taken off never have a dig or nick from a hammer from taking them off.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #24  
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LOL .. OK ... I have only been doing this for 40 years

Read all you want .....You need the proper tools , or a chisel .....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by rn360908
Yeah I have never done it before...that’s why I am giving this guy advice. You show me a technical manual from ford, Chevy, or dodge showing you taking the spindle off with a chisel then I will tell you that your right, until then you are wrong. If you use a steel harmer then you can f*&% up the spindle if you use a brass or dead blow hammer then you won't. 20 lb sledge bad, dead blow or brass good. You GMAB on precision. those surface on the back of the spindle and knukle are machined surfaces. All the spindles I have ever taken off never have a dig or nick from a hammer from taking them off.
So when the OP eggs his spindle he can count on you to help ?...... Don't give me the manual says BS ..... The manual doesn't take into consideration ,real world conditions ..

I'm glad you came along to straighten me out on proper procedure ...(since I have only done it 100 times )


Pound away ....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 10:11 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
So when the OP eggs his spindle he can count on you to help ?...... Don't give me the manual says BS ..... The manual doesn't take into consideration ,real world conditions ..

I'm glad you came along to straighten me out on proper procedure ...


Pound away A H ....
Yeah if he screws up his spindle with a true dead blow hammer then I will more than gladly help him find a spindle, he won't though. If the guy doesn't have any common since when doing this job then he should take it to someone who knows how to get the job done. I am also not try to be an a%% you just stepped up and told me I have never done this before. I was just giving a new guy a link with a picture book of how to do it, which is also very similar to the way I have done it since I was 15 and have never had an issue and have never had to replace a spindle
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #27  
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Pound away ....
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 04:10 AM
  #28  
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Yup, take a nice THIN WIDE chisel and tap between where the 2 pieces mate to each other. It will come off with no damage. Watch and rotate your chisel around the mating surface as you go. Hi Rick, how are you doin?? My excavating business only moves snow this time of year. I forgot what dirt looks like and what color dirt is. I think it is all white now.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 07:27 AM
  #29  
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Well, I hope the original poster at least realizes there are a couple of methods to get the spindle off before all of this BS. My offer of a brass hammer is just how I do it. If you happen to be in NE Pa I will come take it off for you.
I too am a bit insulted by the response of Action.
I dont pretend to be an expert or anything, learning never ends, but, as it seems everyone has tell how long we have been wrenching, I have been working our shop with my father for 30 years and he has ben there since the beginning of time. We have never damaged a spindle that I can remeber, some we have had to use heat on, but that comes with experience as to know when to use the heat, generally it is not needed. As far as buying the proper tool goes, I think dad says it best, "there are parts installer and then there are mechaincs". If you are a tool junkie and want to run to the snap on truck for every speciality tool they make you can't afford to be a back yard mechanic (if you can good for you!), hell we couldnt afford to be in buisness for this long.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #30  
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ok guys put the tape measure away. if it works without damage go with it. everyone has their own preference and it dont matter as long as the job gets done the same way. and for the record, i used a magazine around the spindle AND a screwdriver to pry it off after it broke free. now back to the original topic, as far as the ujoint, a small socket and hammer should just pop it out right?
 
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