trying to adjust my TPS, when testing with a multimeter everything is in check as far as volts go but when i test resistance between the top two wires i only got 900 so i replaced. The new sensor in and adjusted so all volts are in check but the resistance is still out. Now i am at about 1100. I can get to 1400 on max adjustment but that throws the volts way out. Did i get a bad sensor from ford or am i doing something wrong. Please help

 

I read this a few times trying to figure why you have a tps, then i saw the e4od, so here is what i found, it is also called a FIPL i believe.

This is from a post by PLC7.3, thanks peter.

FIPL is the large item on the drivers side of the IP with 3 wires.....

A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A

TRANSMISSION: E4OD

SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures

APPLICATION: Ford

DATE: Jan 1994

E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)




Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.


.................................................. ................................................

DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

So i have tested exactly as that states and achieved each of those numbers. The part i cannot get is the resistance. I read where David85 had posted that there should be 1800 +or- 50 ohms of resistance from the top two wires. My original tps only had 900 so i replaced and the new tps reads 1100 when i adjust so all the voltage readings come out properly. I am starting to think that i got a bad TPS right out of the box. Only problem here is ford doesn't have anymore and won't until monday. Last night i drove my 91 parts truck to town and on the way home i lost another lift pump. This will be #5 in less than 2 years and 5000 miles. What gives. They always break at the same time

 

since you keep having problems with the lift pumps, might i recommend the nice mr gasket 12D? hehe. No clue why they break man, new old stock and aged internals? no clue.

 

Do you have any idea if the low resistance could be coming from somewhere down the wires farther and the TPS is good just not showing it.

 

I don't think that resistance even matters - the PCM looks at the voltage, if your voltage is within range then the internal resistance of the FIPL is good for what it's supposed to be doing (which is varying voltage down from the 5V reference)