Update...finally got it home and a chance to work on it. The transmission shop was thinking either TPS or computer but did not have time to pursue electrical issues further.

Today I checked grounds by the diagnostic connector and the battery. They are good.

I pursued testing for the need for adding a ground to the MLPS by piercing a wire closest to the MLPS connector tab. First, checked battery voltage, 12.3v. First wire tested 4.43v with meter to negative battery post, key on which was either perfect or terrible depending on which wire to the computer this was. I am color blind.

Other wire closest to the tab got 0.036v key on and .067v engine running. That means it passed as it was under 1.0v and thus the ground to the MLPS (and also TPS and maybe transmission temp sensor as it connects in at the MLPS) is good.

Put my old 180K miles TPS on it. Drove the neighborhood about 15 minutes to let the system "learn" this TPS. Then test drove an additional 45 minutes. NO CHANGE. It was not the TPS. It still hunts 3-4,4-3 at 58 mph. Stays in 3 one second and 4 (OD) about 2 seconds. At 45mph it stays in 3 with normal throttle, goes to 4 with light throttle. Up shifting from a stop goes 1,2,4,2,4 and lugs the engine at 800rpm. It will stay in 4 (OD) as long as the throttle is very heavy. Sometimes the OD cancel button affects it, most of the time it does not. The throttle actions seems like it is reversed. Light throttle gives 3rd, but will hold in OD if it is in OD to 75mph.

Now, today's question...how do you remove the computer, ECU, PCM or you name choice for it?. I need to get the numbers off it. There are six possible computers for the 94 Bronco, 5.8, E4OD. I want to shop online and the salvage yard. I can remove the connector and wiggle the computer in the rubber ring around it but something seems to be holding it in.

Thanks.

 

Finally got the computer out and opened it up. It looked new inside to my surprise. Upon further inspection there is dime size discoloration around one of the capacitors.

Who would you recommend to test it and rebuild if needed?

I'll start a new thread for this question.

 

As I mentioned in the other thread, it'll cost more to rebuild electronics than it will to just replace it.

 

You are correct. I found about 50 ECU at the local U Pull It for $25 but no numbers matched. I found a match in Canada for $175. I liked what I heard when I called Auto and Heavy Duty Computer supply - ecm ecu tcu repair engine transmission control modules ford pcm 3000gt eclipse stealth mitsubishi honda acura lexus chrysler sidekick tracker cummins They seem to know the components that fail in Texas heat and charge $195 if it is repairable. Then I will have new capacitors and other giblets and gizzards if needed. When I mentioned the discoloration under a capacitor the reply was "they hold the reference voltage."