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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

The big 9" question

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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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From: Wagener, SC
The big 9" question

Ok, get your minds out of the gutter, guys.

Got a sloppy rear (in my truck, dangit!), so I was thinking.... I need my truck, it's my DD, and the clunking it really getting to me. So I went to my local jy (we share a fence on the back side of my property), and asked about a 9" in the yard.

He's got one, but the truck has about 3 ton of crap piled in the bed, and it's sitting on it's rims. No way I could get that rear out on my own. jy dog offered the rear to me for $100.00 and he'll pull it. Guess they'll fork the truck up to get to it, and cut it out at the springs. He said they'll check and make sure it's not sloppy like mine.

Is $100.00 an ok deal if they pull it, and it's in usable shape?

What I want to do is pull the axles and do bearings, pull the pumpkin and adjust for backlash, and just generally get it in good shape. That way, I can do an afternoon swap when its finished. It's got a 3.55 gear, just like the one I have now.

Is this a good plan?
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:51 PM
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From: Lost
$100 for a complete 9" rearend, pulled and guarenteed to be good, is a good deal. However, the 9" wasn't offered with 3.55 gears. 3.50 was, though.
I'm guessing you have an 8.8, and want to upgrade to the 9". This would certainly be a good way to go about it, especially if the ratio is that close.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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I was feeling a little threatened since mine is only 8.8 inches...

$100 for a boneyard rear end with them pulling it isn't too bad. The 9 inch is pretty easy to swap axles and the like, so you should have no problems working the bearings and seals.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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From: Wagener, SC
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
$100 for a complete 9" rearend, pulled and guarenteed to be good, is a good deal. However, the 9" wasn't offered with 3.55 gears. 3.50 was, though.
I'm guessing you have an 8.8, and want to upgrade to the 9". This would certainly be a good way to go about it, especially if the ratio is that close.
Oh, sorry, I meant 3.50. I have a 9".

What I'm trying to do is not have any downtime. Do all the work on the jy rearend, and swap it in when it's ready. That'll leave me with a spare if I ever want to play with a different gearset later on.

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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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From: Lost
Well, if you already have a 9", you can redo the center and axles, and just swap them into your current housing. Prolly much quicker/easier than a full axle swap. Less to deal with, like brakes and u-bolts that love to break.......
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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From: Wagener, SC
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Well, if you already have a 9", you can redo the center and axles, and just swap them into your current housing. Prolly much quicker/easier than a full axle swap. Less to deal with, like brakes and u-bolts that love to break.......
Well, there you go. That's a great idea.

So, is $100.00 still a good deal, considering the downtime it'll save me?

Last question. Someone once told me that taking up backlash will change the wear pattern on the gears, and would cause excessive wear to the gears. Does that sound right?
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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From: Lost
The $100 would be quite reasonable, in my opinion.
The backlash, when properly adjusted, should not cause excessive wear on the ring/pinion. On the other hand, when someone just torques down the pinion nut to reduce the backlash on an older gearset, it will cause excessive wear to occur. Many garages/service stations used to adjust the backlash by just tightening the pinion nut. That's just a short term "fix" that actually causes more problems later. It over stresses the pinion bearings, and causes them to fail, and usually takes the ring and pinion gears out at the same time.
Setting the proper gear mesh, backlash, and bearing preload will usually allow the gears to live a much longer life, even when they are used, so long as they were used together. A new crush sleeve should be used anytime the pinion nut is removed, for any reason, even changing the pinion seal.
 
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