OK, I did the 38 gallon rear fuel tank swap, extended the pick up & return w/ hardline & ferrels, replaced the fuel lines w/ DIESEL/BIO specific lines from pickup to tank switch, opened up the fill neck for the truck stop nozzel, and moved the roll over valve up to above the fill neck. THE PROBLEM... while under hard exceleration while running on the rear tank the "fuel filter" light comes on. If I do the same thing on the front tank nothing. The filter is new, the tank & all hdw for swap is new, and all hoses were soaked in Diesel to make sure no probs prior to swap. Any ideas??? Only thing I can think of is the pickup tube is too close to the bottom of the tank. I did not reuse the return line's duck bill or the pickup's strainer foot. I did place the end the same dist to bottom of tank as Orig was though.

 

It must be restricted and it seems like you nailed it. It also could be a pinched hose or something too. Hopefully you won't have to pull the bed off again.

 

I did the swap w/o removing the bed, would not recomend that way now that I did it though. Guess I'll have to wait till I run it out of fuel & drop the rear tank again, otherwise wait for warmer weather & pull bed to fix rear tank then do the tank mods to the ft. @ same time. Man I hate when stuff goes wrong, just my luck I guess. Thanks RRranch. Any other's w/ similar exp or ideas???

 

Do you have a big tree in the yard? It's real easy pulling the bed as long as you can get the nuts off. I just rig up ropes to the stake pockets and use a chain hoist from the tree. I used to just lift it off with my bare hands but those hernias hurt at my age.

 

The problem w/ getting the bed off right now is the work schedule, the "help" schedule, and the snow covered ground to put it. I've pulled them before w/ 3 friends & work horses to put it on, so that s/b no problem, but right now snow is piled in all the regular areas we do this @. But again thanks.

 

subscribed. I'll be doing 38 gallon tank this summer.

 

Ken C, there are quite a few threads about doing the 38 gallon swap. Check them all out (or as many as you can) here and on other forums like PSN. I did it all from underneath the truck, but if I did it all over again knowing what I know now, I'd do it by pulling the bed. Although it would take an entire day w/ prep or an entire weekend w/o prep, it took me several long & cold nights around the holidays w/ as much prep as possible off the truck before hand, and I still had to fetch parts.

Lots of guys buy the tank online from e-bay, craigslist, or RockAuto.com; I went to my local radiator repair shop and asked for the owner if he was willing to sell me a tank for the same $ I could get on line for cash. I was lucky, he gave it to me at $10.00 more than his cost which beat any price I saw online.

Things I learned from my experience doing this: 1) Pull the bed, it's a pain if the nuts don't come off, or you don't have a hoist or buddies to help w/ the lifting, but have diesel running down your arms or droping rust in your eyes @ 11:30pm sucks. 2) Make sure you have ALL the hardware you think you'll need and then some. Especially diesel/biodiesel safe fuel hoses (3/8" feed & 5/16" return) 3) Set up the new tank and preassemble it in the garage or shop several times before you start to make sure it all works & fits. 4) Move the rollover valve/vent & remove the guts from the fill neck on both tanks at the same time you already have the bed off. 5) drive the rear tank as low as you dare, then let it run in driveway till its "out of fuel" makes pulling tanke easier. 6) Get the metal fuel line tool the plastic ones suck/break. 7) replace all the fuel lines from both tanks to the selector valve while bed is off. 8) If money permits do fuel pump upgrade @ same time.

Not necessarily in the order to do just seperate things I remembered right now.