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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

broke and same problems lol

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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 02:52 PM
  #16  
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I was always told to use spray silcone in place of ether......That true?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 02:52 PM
  #17  
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Diesels are compression ignition engines. High compression makes high heat. The higher the compression, the higher the heat. Problem is when they are super cold compression isn't always that high and the heat that is made is having to overcome the frozen cylinders, head and fuel. So some engines use glow plugs to add heat. If they did come into contact with raw fuel inside an engine that wasn't turning it would be bad. Diesel is a flamable though so the mist in there contacting them when it is turning is ok.
Ether on the other hand is an explosive. If you have glow plugs on when that stuff is sprayed, it had better be turning. It will trash the glow plugs regardless but glow plugs and ether on a non rotating engine can turn your hood into a ram air style in a hurry. I had an old redneck boss at a chevy dealer once eat a chunk of cast iron and a valve from spraying that stuff in an old GM diesel. I really wish we had digital cameras back then. The video of him running around with that valve sticking in his eye socket would have been hilarious on youtube!!!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #18  
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oRDERed a Genuine ford blockheater today at my dealership...Little more than the ebay deal but at least its local and I get warranty etc. Plus it gets yanked from paycheck so I will never know the money is missing LOL. Gonna attempt to ohm out the GPs like talked about here but witht eh miles on this thing I think im just gonna replace all eight while its apart. With 250K miles and original glowplugs its probably time.

Question. I googled injectors and they dont seem too cheap. How do you test them/know if they are bad. The truck runs great once its running. Its just that whole starting thing thats tough LOL
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:07 PM
  #19  
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7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Glow Plugs - Ford 7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Motorcraft Glow Plug - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks

Just ordered 8 of these badboys!...Good price I could not resist. Gonna grap harness's and gaskets before I go for it!

Thanks for all the help guys
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:04 PM
  #20  
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Correct me if I am wrong , but , did I read that the OP said his problem was intermittent ?

I have never heard Of an intermittent GP before ...
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #21  
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I had an old redneck boss at a chevy dealer once eat a chunk of cast iron and a valve from spraying that stuff in an old GM diesel. I really wish we had digital cameras back then. The video of him running around with that valve sticking in his eye socket would have been hilarious on youtube!!!
That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard ....
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #22  
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Ether on the other hand is an explosive. If you have glow plugs on when that stuff is sprayed, it had better be turning. It will trash the glow plugs regardless but glow plugs and ether on a non rotating engine can turn your hood into a ram air style in a hurry
Where the hell are you getting this crap from ?....
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JJONES660
So the heat of the Glowplug itself does not ignite the fuel? I realize there is not an actual spark of course but always thought the glowplug assisted in igniting the fuel...But cylinder temperature does make sense. Do glowplugs turn off at a certain engine temp?

Thanks again everyone.
If both valves in a cylinder are close & there is fuel in the cylinder , the fuel can ignite..

GP s are controlled by EOT ...
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #24  
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Update. Last night I got home and the highs for the day were 60 degrees ish around 40s when I got home...Truck started in 3 seconds. Drove it made sure it was pretty warm when I plugged her back in. This morning with over night lows in high 20s no luck again. One cylinder maybe two sounded like trying to fire and I am watching the voltage drop when I hear the GPR click on but no luck. So ambient temp drops and no luck on start. So block heater shows up today or tommorrow....Gonna do plugs after that. They are supposed to ship today. But still need to order gaskets and harnessess.

question. Is it safe to degrees the ***** out of these engines and wash all the oil etc that looms after a quarter million miles>? Id like to really clean up this sucker to start watching were leaks may be coming from etc and have a clean work space in general. Is alternator vulnerable? I know when I worked at a Volvo lot if we didnt bag the alternator when pressure washing we would fry it.

THanks
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Krisx125
I was always told to use spray silcone in place of ether......That true?
wouldnt mind hearing answer too this as well.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JJONES660
question. Is it safe to degrees the ***** out of these engines and wash all the oil etc that looms after a quarter million miles>? Id like to really clean up this sucker to start watching were leaks may be coming from etc and have a clean work space in general. Is alternator vulnerable? I know when I worked at a Volvo lot if we didnt bag the alternator when pressure washing we would fry it.

THanks
My personal feeling is to say no to the pressure washer. I asked around about this a couple weeks ago on the forums here and quite a few said to soak everything down with something to cut the grease (like simple green) and then hose it off gently with a garden hose. I have always tried to stay away from taking a pressure washer to my engines. High pressure water and electronics don't mix too well.

My engine compartment needs a good bath and scrubbing too and one it these warmer days it will get it.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #27  
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^^^^ x2 dont pressure wash it, u will kick urself if if get water in something like ur idm or a sensor like ur icp and ur truck starts running wierd, just for cleaning the engine. us some degreaser from a can, wipe it down or hose it off gently. and for some extra insurance i would cover all the important sensor and elctronics like the idm, icp, ipr etc with something like a zip-loc bag just so u dont get any water in them.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 01:27 PM
  #28  
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Good tip on no pressure wash. Simple green does wonders on grease so ill have to buy a gallon. Id love to find a good undercarriage wash in town but dont know where to start. THe folks that owned before me lived on a county road so mag chloride and dirt have a nice coating on the underside. If i could get this sucker clean it would make my life easier along with whatever mechanics I let touch in the future.

Ordered gaskets/harness kit today! Looks like Im gonna attempt this Glowplug swap on Sunday!

Is 14 foot lbs on Glow plugs and 97 inchpounds on valve covers correct?

And somewhere people talked about torquing injectors and rockers while in there?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #29  
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From: Mt.Angel
Originally Posted by JJONES660
Good tip on no pressure wash. Simple green does wonders on grease so ill have to buy a gallon. Id love to find a good undercarriage wash in town but dont know where to start. THe folks that owned before me lived on a county road so mag chloride and dirt have a nice coating on the underside. If i could get this sucker clean it would make my life easier along with whatever mechanics I let touch in the future.

Ordered gaskets/harness kit today! Looks like Im gonna attempt this Glowplug swap on Sunday!

Is 14 foot lbs on Glow plugs and 97 inchpounds on valve covers correct?

And somewhere people talked about torquing injectors and rockers while in there?
Your torque specs sound right to me, do u have a manual for ur truck and our engines to verify this? and yea you could check ur rockers while ur in there too idk about injectors didnt do them myslefs and idk if they would come loose like ur rockers. i had a few rockers that i could wiggle a lot so i torqued them down and helped quiet the engine down a bit.
 
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