6.0L Problem Prevention
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 854
Likes: 17
From: Florida
I wasn't trying to give you a hard time about the EGR cooler delete - just trying to save you some money. Remember, if your state changes inspection rules in the future, it could cause you a major PITA trying to put it back on (I am assuming you don't have inspections).
Guys have recommended using the blue hose from Ford rather than the hose that comes with most of the delete kits and getting new bolts for the up-pipe and y-pipe exhaust connections from Ford (rather than the bolts that come with the kits). I think you'll need 4 y-pipe bolts w300013, 6 y-pipe nuts w300051 and 2 y-pipe to y-pipe adapter bolts (don't know the part number).
Good luck!!
Guys have recommended using the blue hose from Ford rather than the hose that comes with most of the delete kits and getting new bolts for the up-pipe and y-pipe exhaust connections from Ford (rather than the bolts that come with the kits). I think you'll need 4 y-pipe bolts w300013, 6 y-pipe nuts w300051 and 2 y-pipe to y-pipe adapter bolts (don't know the part number).
Good luck!!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Sullid, didn't mean to come across hostile if I did.
Any particular reason for the Ford bolts? I could see if the EGR delete kit comes with junk hardware I guess. Would it be cheaper to just get Grade 8 bolts from the hardware store?
Any particular reason for the Ford bolts? I could see if the EGR delete kit comes with junk hardware I guess. Would it be cheaper to just get Grade 8 bolts from the hardware store?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 854
Likes: 17
From: Florida
I am not sure, but the recommendation came from the FORD techs on here (cheezit or m-chan, I believe). I think those bolts are prone to freezing up and exhaust leaks are probably the most common problem after messing with those bolts. I think they are very inexpensive. partguyed.com is a great place to get these things much cheaper than at your local Ford- they will all be OEM from Ed (he is a Ford dealer, but extends us a better price than most of the dealer will give).
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 854
Likes: 17
From: Florida
I tried to find the the link to the thread that mentioned all of this, but there are soooooo many EGR delete threads, I couldn't find it. It is out there though. I think the title had something about the best kit for EGR delete.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 177
Likes: 1
From: Wasilla, Alaska
The 2005 model year are the ones that use the Stand Pipes and dummy plugs not 2003-2004 model years.
You can get a new IPR screen for a few bucks as well or just clean the old one.
The Y-pipe to up pipe bolts can be a biatch or they can come right off. I don't think they need to be replaced with the factory ones but thats just my opinion. One of mine broke while doing my head gaskets so I replaced it with a standard hardware store one.
Cobbs Diesel had the best price on the intake gasket set and it came with every gasket, seal, and o-ring you could possible need and then some.
Being in as far as you are I would do the head gaskets and studs buts thats just me. If you do not feel comfortable going into your engine that far then don't mess with it.
While having everything apart keep it clean, put rags or towels over anything that you have apart.
Do a very thorough pressure wash of the top half of your engine prior to pulling everything apart it will make life a lot easier and cut down on the risk of contaminating any openings to your engine while working on it.
You can get a new IPR screen for a few bucks as well or just clean the old one.
The Y-pipe to up pipe bolts can be a biatch or they can come right off. I don't think they need to be replaced with the factory ones but thats just my opinion. One of mine broke while doing my head gaskets so I replaced it with a standard hardware store one.
Cobbs Diesel had the best price on the intake gasket set and it came with every gasket, seal, and o-ring you could possible need and then some.
Being in as far as you are I would do the head gaskets and studs buts thats just me. If you do not feel comfortable going into your engine that far then don't mess with it.
While having everything apart keep it clean, put rags or towels over anything that you have apart.
Do a very thorough pressure wash of the top half of your engine prior to pulling everything apart it will make life a lot easier and cut down on the risk of contaminating any openings to your engine while working on it.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
The 2005 model year are the ones that use the Stand Pipes and dummy plugs not 2003-2004 model years.
You can get a new IPR screen for a few bucks as well or just clean the old one.
The Y-pipe to up pipe bolts can be a biatch or they can come right off. I don't think they need to be replaced with the factory ones but thats just my opinion. One of mine broke while doing my head gaskets so I replaced it with a standard hardware store one.
Cobbs Diesel had the best price on the intake gasket set and it came with every gasket, seal, and o-ring you could possible need and then some.
Being in as far as you are I would do the head gaskets and studs buts thats just me. If you do not feel comfortable going into your engine that far then don't mess with it.
While having everything apart keep it clean, put rags or towels over anything that you have apart.
Do a very thorough pressure wash of the top half of your engine prior to pulling everything apart it will make life a lot easier and cut down on the risk of contaminating any openings to your engine while working on it.
You can get a new IPR screen for a few bucks as well or just clean the old one.
The Y-pipe to up pipe bolts can be a biatch or they can come right off. I don't think they need to be replaced with the factory ones but thats just my opinion. One of mine broke while doing my head gaskets so I replaced it with a standard hardware store one.
Cobbs Diesel had the best price on the intake gasket set and it came with every gasket, seal, and o-ring you could possible need and then some.
Being in as far as you are I would do the head gaskets and studs buts thats just me. If you do not feel comfortable going into your engine that far then don't mess with it.
While having everything apart keep it clean, put rags or towels over anything that you have apart.
Do a very thorough pressure wash of the top half of your engine prior to pulling everything apart it will make life a lot easier and cut down on the risk of contaminating any openings to your engine while working on it.
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