6.0L Problem Prevention
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6.0L Problem Prevention
I've had my 2004 6.0L for almost a year now, 53k on the truck and no problems as of yet.... I plan on running some mild tunes but do not tow heavy and by no means do I abuse my vehicle. I wish I had the time/money to tear down the whole top end and replace head bolts/gaskets and truly have a "bulletproof" 6.0L but 3k in parts is a little much for me.
After a lot of research here is my $750 plan, let me know what you guys think.
Upgraded turbo oil drain line - $40
Turbo gasket/bolt kit - $17
Oil cooler rebuild kit - $250
Intake manifold gasket set (most o-rings/gaskets on top-end) - $70
EGR delete kit - $150
HPOP pressure fitting upgrade kit - $58
Blue spring kit - $25
CCV Reroute - Already have the parts
Coolant and VC-9 flush - $100
I figure this will allow me to avoid the problems guys have with the EGR cooler and oil cooler (come on Ford engineers, wtf) and as long as I monitor my Pyrometer very closely I can skip out on head gasket problems, hopefully....
Am I correct in my reasoning or am I way off base? Should I just save the extra money and do the whole top-end, studs and all??
After a lot of research here is my $750 plan, let me know what you guys think.
Upgraded turbo oil drain line - $40
Turbo gasket/bolt kit - $17
Oil cooler rebuild kit - $250
Intake manifold gasket set (most o-rings/gaskets on top-end) - $70
EGR delete kit - $150
HPOP pressure fitting upgrade kit - $58
Blue spring kit - $25
CCV Reroute - Already have the parts
Coolant and VC-9 flush - $100
I figure this will allow me to avoid the problems guys have with the EGR cooler and oil cooler (come on Ford engineers, wtf) and as long as I monitor my Pyrometer very closely I can skip out on head gasket problems, hopefully....
Am I correct in my reasoning or am I way off base? Should I just save the extra money and do the whole top-end, studs and all??
Last edited by ZeroTucker; Feb 13, 2011 at 05:54 PM. Reason: Add text
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Turbo drain to me is just another smart $30 while I'm in the truck. EGT's can run very high in these trucks and I would rather spend $30 than buy a new turbo after I trashed it with coked oil.
Again, this is my first diesel truck and I may be incorrect, this is all information I have gathered from FTE and other forums.....
Logistics Pro
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Just my 0.02
If I had more money I would have done some of what you listed but as I type this I have my headgaskets and studs getting done in my truck(doing the work myself)
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2006powerstroke90 -
I would love to do the head studs AND everything I listed and believe that I can turn a wrench well enough to. The problem is I would be looking at $1,800-$2,000 in parts plus machining costs for the heads.
I'm looking for a more cost efficient way to prevent head gasket failure and be able to drive this truck for the next 15 years....
I would love to do the head studs AND everything I listed and believe that I can turn a wrench well enough to. The problem is I would be looking at $1,800-$2,000 in parts plus machining costs for the heads.
I'm looking for a more cost efficient way to prevent head gasket failure and be able to drive this truck for the next 15 years....
Logistics Pro
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I totally understand where your coming from believe me, but I'm only about 800$ in parts for the head gaskets studs intake gaskets injector o rings valve cover gaskets and an intercooler boot.
I still have to buy filters oil and coolant.
But if you are comfortable with working on your truck I'd say go for it. Just monitor temps and fluid levels and you should be good, especially since you have lower miles. I just passed 201,000 lol
I still have to buy filters oil and coolant.
But if you are comfortable with working on your truck I'd say go for it. Just monitor temps and fluid levels and you should be good, especially since you have lower miles. I just passed 201,000 lol
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Are you doing the studs because of a failure? Or just getting nervous after 200k? $800 isn't too bad I guess. Would I be safe to assume my plan of action could get me to the 200k mark?
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Logistics Pro
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Yes I am doing them to failure. I had a lot of coolant puke.
I could see it on the front drive shaft and the frame rail behind the left front tire. It was pretty bad. I have the heads going to the machine shop tomorrow for a cleaning checking for cracks and re surfacing them.
As for you hitting the 200k mark I wouldn't see why not...just take care of it and it will take care of you
Oh and if you do choose to do that work we love to see pictures
I could see it on the front drive shaft and the frame rail behind the left front tire. It was pretty bad. I have the heads going to the machine shop tomorrow for a cleaning checking for cracks and re surfacing them.
As for you hitting the 200k mark I wouldn't see why not...just take care of it and it will take care of you
Oh and if you do choose to do that work we love to see pictures
Logistics Pro
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It's not bad. I thought about having it cleaned when I took it out the first time to do the egr delete but I never did. I have read if its not thatbad to not worry about it.
But if there's any questions or problems you have while doing it I'm ready to help, and I'm sure many others will also.
But if there's any questions or problems you have while doing it I'm ready to help, and I'm sure many others will also.
Laughing Gas
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From: Florida
It sounds like you are doing this yourself. ARP studs will run about $450 and stock gaskets are about $200. If you have the talent to do this yourself, the extra $650 is going to be well worth it.
I agree with adding a coolant filter. I plan to switch to ELC the next chance I get.
There is a turbo drain tube ($25) and a supply tube ($80), both of which are upgraded. They help lube and cool the turbo and prevent coking of the oil in the turbo.
Since you are 2004, I'm not sure you have to do the STC HPOP fitting - I don't think so (thought it was just 05-06 - hopefully someone else will chime in). You could do the dummy plugs and stand pipes (about $100)- they have an upgraded o-ring and help prevent no start from high pressure oil leak.
I would leave the EGR cooler alone and save that money - the coolant filter and oil cooler swap out should protect it. Are you having problems with the oil cooler EOT-ECT>15?
Finally, if there is nothing wrong right now, why not wait - this is a pretty massive project even if you are an awesome mechanic.
I agree with adding a coolant filter. I plan to switch to ELC the next chance I get.
There is a turbo drain tube ($25) and a supply tube ($80), both of which are upgraded. They help lube and cool the turbo and prevent coking of the oil in the turbo.
Since you are 2004, I'm not sure you have to do the STC HPOP fitting - I don't think so (thought it was just 05-06 - hopefully someone else will chime in). You could do the dummy plugs and stand pipes (about $100)- they have an upgraded o-ring and help prevent no start from high pressure oil leak.
I would leave the EGR cooler alone and save that money - the coolant filter and oil cooler swap out should protect it. Are you having problems with the oil cooler EOT-ECT>15?
Finally, if there is nothing wrong right now, why not wait - this is a pretty massive project even if you are an awesome mechanic.
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It's not bad. I thought about having it cleaned when I took it out the first time to do the egr delete but I never did. I have read if its not thatbad to not worry about it.
But if there's any questions or problems you have while doing it I'm ready to help, and I'm sure many others will also.
But if there's any questions or problems you have while doing it I'm ready to help, and I'm sure many others will also.
It sounds like you are doing this yourself. ARP studs will run about $450 and stock gaskets are about $200. If you have the talent to do this yourself, the extra $650 is going to be well worth it.
I agree with adding a coolant filter. I plan to switch to ELC the next chance I get.
There is a turbo drain tube ($25) and a supply tube ($80), both of which are upgraded. They help lube and cool the turbo and prevent coking of the oil in the turbo.
Since you are 2004, I'm not sure you have to do the STC HPOP fitting - I don't think so (thought it was just 05-06 - hopefully someone else will chime in). You could do the dummy plugs and stand pipes (about $100)- they have an upgraded o-ring and help prevent no start from high pressure oil leak.
I would leave the EGR cooler alone and save that money - the coolant filter and oil cooler swap out should protect it. Are you having problems with the oil cooler EOT-ECT>15?
Finally, if there is nothing wrong right now, why not wait - this is a pretty massive project even if you are an awesome mechanic.
I agree with adding a coolant filter. I plan to switch to ELC the next chance I get.
There is a turbo drain tube ($25) and a supply tube ($80), both of which are upgraded. They help lube and cool the turbo and prevent coking of the oil in the turbo.
Since you are 2004, I'm not sure you have to do the STC HPOP fitting - I don't think so (thought it was just 05-06 - hopefully someone else will chime in). You could do the dummy plugs and stand pipes (about $100)- they have an upgraded o-ring and help prevent no start from high pressure oil leak.
I would leave the EGR cooler alone and save that money - the coolant filter and oil cooler swap out should protect it. Are you having problems with the oil cooler EOT-ECT>15?
Finally, if there is nothing wrong right now, why not wait - this is a pretty massive project even if you are an awesome mechanic.
Good info on the STC fitting, after a quick search you are correct. Glad I can cross that $50 off my list....
I will look into adding a coolant filter to my list. As far as an EGR delete, the cooler is obviously a very weak point in the motor and I want to rip it out of there. Personal preference I guess. No problems with the oil cooler but again, I'm trying to avoid ever having to pull the heads on this thing...
