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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #1  
94 smokin stroker's Avatar
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Urgent Need help badly

Ok im lost went out and cranked my truck just now and everything looked normal but then i saw the tack at 0 when it should be at 1100 for the high idle. I checked all the fuses guys i need your help bad i got no clue thanks. Tacks still remained still when i pulled it in the shop to try and fix with your help.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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Sounds like your tach sensor may have crapped out.....if you have an E4OD try not to drive it until you get it fixed.....the tach sensor not throwing a signal will cause your trans to go into limp mode.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 10:46 AM
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Yours should be similar......

 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 11:04 AM
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Look at wires going into sensor it self see if there bare. also check see if your od light is working. If it is on but dim could be relay under hood.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 11:14 AM
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Thnks and yes i have the e40d and have had it go in limp before thats why i am fixing before i drive her im gunna go check will post what i see thnks
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 01:57 PM
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Well the wire has about a 1/2in long piece exposed right above the metal screw in piece the actual sensor not the plug part so what you guys think new one
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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Oh great now no wait to start on the display and the volt gauge is not regestiring anything sits there and dont move would the sensor cause the other to
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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no it would not you have electrical problem i would check your fuses with test light sometimes they can look ok but are not.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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It should be fuse 17 far left bottom fuse.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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A dead tach sender should/would send the automatic (E4OD) trans into a "failure management mode" (limp mode) with harsh engagements and firm shift feel and an abnormal shift schedule. It has no effect on a manual trans only the Tach readings.

Check the wires where they exit the big nut on the oil filler housing , known to short out due to bare wire.....

Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too.

You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.

You could cut the wire and slide a suitable sized piece of heat shrink over the bare wire(s) to isolate them from each other.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Thnks and yes fuse 17 was blown and it didint ohm out right so im goin to get the fuses and sensor tomorrow thnks again.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 94 smokin stroker
Ok im lost went out and cranked my truck just now and everything looked normal but then i saw the tack at 0 when it should be at 1100 for the high idle. I checked all the fuses guys i need your help bad i got no clue thanks. Tacks still remained still when i pulled it in the shop to try and fix with your help.
yeah man i had the same thing happen to me... I just went a head and got the part and took the old sensor out and put the new one in and was set to go.

Also you say your high idle is 1100? Is that what it is supposed to be? Mine only gets about 800
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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Mine at normal idle is 800 then tap the pedal and it goes up to 1100 i am thinking your high idle is maybe not working no biggie though just helps engine warm up faster.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 03:31 PM
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no it is working lol my high idle is 800... regular idle is 500 for me

wasnt sure if mine was too low or not
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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500 is a little low.

From memory and auto should be a bit north of 700.
A manual should be a bit north of 600.
 
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