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With all the threads about what kind of pipe to use for compressed air, I was wondering if there was any reason not to use standard 1/2" copper pipe with soldered connections? It's cheap, easy to work, and certainly strong enough.
I've had a run of this in my workshop for years without any problems .
I'm definitely no expert but I've heard people say that the vibrations (especially close to the compressor) can cause the solder joints to break down and come loose.
All,
I don't believe that the copper line should be hard piped to the compressor. There should be a soft line that connects to the copper system. This would eliminate any chance of a vibration problem. I would personally use 3/4" copper just because it doesn't have to be supported as much as 1/2". Copper is the safe, cheap way to go!
Consider it,
KingFisher
I even run a rubber hose for steel line to isolate the vibration from the pump.
Remember to put a system isolation valve in the outlet line from the compressor so that you can work on the lines without draining the tank.
You might want to check with some copper fitting and line manufacturers to check the line rating and required assy techniques for use with compressed gas.
Last edited by Torque1st; Mar 11, 2003 at 11:19 PM.
All,
I have designed quite a few "Hydronic Heating Systems" in my day. These reheat and baseboard systems must be tested for leaks prior to filling. We test them with 125 psi air. The system must hold for a day. Copper piping Type L is more than adequate for these relatively low pressures.
Secondly, copper tubing has a thinner wall than pipe and is used on condenser coils in air-conditioning. Condenser pressures can run as high as 250 psi and are tested at 450 psi at the factory.
Copper should be strong enough for pneumatic conveyance of approximately 125 psi for an infinite time. Even if it does fail, it won't send ballistic shards across the room.
KingFisher
I am glad that this has been posted, I was going to ask the same thing. Now here's an addition to the question.
What should be done in a copper line system for water buildup in the lines? Would a U shapped area of pipe with a petcock? Or an evaporator setup of some kind?
I am setting this up new and want to make sure it gets done correctly.
95,
I like to slope my systems towards a water trap. I prefer to put a watertrap at each coupling point. Sometimes money can be an issue on this point.
Somehow over the years I have gathered a collection of water traps and have extras lying around. My point, don't ever throw one out and don't let a friend throw one out, collect them.
On another point.
What if you used baseboard heating element for piping?
You could reject alot of heat from the system.
How much heat does a 5HP compressor reject?Max?
Well. 1HP=745.5Watts; so 5HP=3727.5W=12,718Btu/hr.
How many feet would you need? My guess is about 12 ft. or less.
By cooling the air, you can remove the majority of water before it gets to your tools.
Consider it,
KingFisher
Check some of the other topics here about air compressors and tools. You will find a variety of tips and websites listed for helping with the construction and layout of your air system. This place is like a library, -go read the "books" here -hehe!
I hve never used copper pipe for the installation of air piping..can't solder my way out of a bucket.I have always used the steel stuff... I would suggest 3/4 for the main loop and 1/2 for the drops........3/4" pipe has an extra capacity of 2+ gallons of air per 100 foot ..also to give you a true rating.install pressure gauges at verious locations..This will give you an idea of real pressure.
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