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They brought the truck over last night. Scanned it and pulled P1316, decided to run a CCT test and pulled codes for #1 P0263 and #8 P0284. Did the Buzz Test and #1 is noticeably quieter than the rest. I had a few extra black CPS's in my shop so we put one in his truck and re-ran the CCT. #8 did not throw a code (which was expected since he had the gray one in it, now he has a spare in the glovebox) But #1 still showed P0263.
They decided to take it home and would tear into it there. I think they either have a UVCH with high resistance for the #1 power or ground, or a injector solenoid issue.
They brought the truck over last night. Scanned it and pulled P1316, decided to run a CCT test and pulled codes for #1 P0263 and #8 P0284. Did the Buzz Test and #1 is noticeably quieter than the rest. I had a few extra black CPS's in my shop so we put one in his truck and re-ran the CCT. #8 did not throw a code (which was expected since he had the gray one in it, now he has a spare in the glovebox) But #1 still showed P0263.
They decided to take it home and would tear into it there. I think they either have a UVCH with high resistance for the #1 power or ground, or a injector solenoid issue.
Any thoughts from the rest of you?
I would be thinking the same thing. Best to open up the VC and see if the connector is loose. Even a little loose can cause the buzz to fail. If a bad solenoid is suspected, he can swap solenoids and see if the buzz follows the solenoid or remains with the injector. If the armature plate is loose, it will be obvious once the solenoid is removed because it will spin freely without any resistance at all. A loose armature plate will also fail the buzz test because it's contacting the solenoid and can't move anywhere.
Hopefully it's just a loose harness connector. Normally a bad solenoid will take out the whole bank...
Hopefully they will find something simple when they have time to pull the VC. Luckily he will only spend a $130 at the most if he needs an injector. Seems like a stock reman goes for about that. Pretty cheap fix really IMO.
The help Ken has given me has been MUCH appreciated. It is nice to have focus on the next step. Always nice to know the next logical step to pursue instead of guessing and wasting time and money.
They brought the truck over last night. Scanned it and pulled P1316, decided to run a CCT test and pulled codes for #1 P0263 and #8 P0284. Did the Buzz Test and #1 is noticeably quieter than the rest. I had a few extra black CPS's in my shop so we put one in his truck and re-ran the CCT. #8 did not throw a code (which was expected since he had the gray one in it, now he has a spare in the glovebox) But #1 still showed P0263.
They decided to take it home and would tear into it there. I think they either have a UVCH with high resistance for the #1 power or ground, or a injector solenoid issue.
Any thoughts from the rest of you?
Reps to you for being a Brother. Got his codes read and a CPS as a parting gift.......
Reps to you for being a Brother. Got his codes read and a CPS as a parting gift.......
He bought the CPS for what Clay sells them for since I had a few extra new ones in the box (need to order another one up now, figure I can always use extra's). He even got to learn where it went!
Think I'm sold on the AE as well after all this - not to mention it having been recommended.
Nice work getting him checked out.
How often do the CPS's fail, and is there a way to test them? Hearing about so many people keeping spares has me wondering if I should find a couple.
Also - how often does that solenoid go? If anyone's interested, I found a bunch of info for using a multimeter to test the sensor, solenoid and injectors. I'll dig it up if anyone's interested.
The CPS has been known to fail, but from a poll I did awhile ago it really varied quite a bit. Roughly 50% had seen failures and some had seen multiple failures. Myself I have never had a failure, but I keep 3-4 spares. These are mostly because I was playing around doing testing on the different versions.
The solenoid is on the injector. They do fail but the normal issue with this problem is the UVCH that has issues. They tend to create more problems than the CPS IMO.
GB Re-manufacturing has a great tech bulletin on troubleshooting.
woodnthings
The CPS has been known to fail, but from a poll I did awhile ago it really varied quite a bit. Roughly 50% had seen failures and some had seen multiple failures. Myself I have never had a failure, but I keep 3-4 spares. These are mostly because I was playing around doing testing on the different versions.
I have read a lot of threads on the CPS issue and I am not always convinced that it is always the 'CPS' itself, but may be related to the 'plug in' or the o-ring seal, letting moisture get through and causing a shut down that way. The only time (3-4) that I had an issue of a 'shut down' (scares the bejesus out of you the first time it happens) was 'while it was raining and just milli-seconds after I drove through a large water puddle'. Never on a dry and sunny day did I have a problem.'The CPS' 'part' may be fine and 'doing its' job', but the outside enviroment is influencing what happens to it.
I have read a lot of threads on the CPS issue and I am not always convinced that it is always the 'CPS' itself, but may be related to the 'plug in' or the o-ring seal, letting moisture get through and causing a shut down that way. The only time (3-4) that I had an issue of a 'shut down' (scares the bejesus out of you the first time it happens) was 'while it was raining and just milli-seconds after I drove through a large water puddle'. Never on a dry and sunny day did I have a problem.'The CPS' 'part' may be fine and 'doing its' job', but the outside enviroment is influencing what happens to it.
I agree, if I could get my hands on some "failed" CPS's I would like to run some tests. I have a feeling that I might find some anomalies to what was originally thought.
We'll you guys must know what your talking about, It turned out to be exactly what most suggested it would be. The UVCH, the connecter had come loose quite a bit, in fact both had but mostly on the corner to #1 which is where the miss was. Here's a pic;
We replaced them with new ones from NAPA for $26.49 These have an extra tab under the clip that helps hold it up, so much in fact that they were hard to push in place. but once in snapped very tight. However we still did what Ken called the $.50 fix (which really should be $.25) but with a plactic washer. We also for good measure added some silcone to help seal the plastic box contaning the wires, might help in the long run, couldn't hurt, and some dialectric grease in the plug.
This combined with Ken's AWSOME help with the CPS has given us a truck running better then it has in years.
We'll you guys must know what your taling about, lol. It turned out to be exactly what most suggested it would be. The UVCH, the connecter had come loose quite a bit, in fact both had but the mostly on the corner to #1 which is where the miss was. Here's a pic;
We replaced them with new ones from NAPA for $26.49 These have an extra tab under the clip that helps hold it up, so much in fact that they were hard to push in place. but once in snapped very tight.
This combined with Ken's AWSOME help with the CPS has given us a truck running better then it has in years.
Thanks everyone
Glad you got it fixed! Do you happen to have the NAPA part number or a photo after the fix? (mostly curious over here...)
Thanks for posting the update. This might help others later when they have a similar issue.