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Everything at the battery is new, and the battery. As soon as I get time I intend to check the ground (not new) and the cable to the starter (also not new).
But just for giggles I did remove the terminals and check them for tightness.
It's not only tightness you want to worry about, its the inside loop of the cable terminal itself. Make sure it is scuffed up really well so that it's shiny in there. Invest in a battery/cable brush, they're only a few bucks. While you're at it get some battery terminal protectant in a spray can. You spray that on the terminals after they're good and cleaned and tightened up, it helps to keep corrosion away.
I'd also check to make sure that the cable itself is securely in the terminal. Over time the copper wires can crack out of the original one piece terminals, thus lowering the efficiency of the whole system. If this is the case you can buy universal ones at the auto parts store, cut back the cable to fresh wire, then put the cable in the universal unit and crank down the screws HARD.
Check the big loop connections on the starter solenoid as well, I had one break on me just last week causing the same problem. Vibration and time is a killer for all the stuff mounted up front.
Okay update: Now it does nothing when cranked and cranks slowly with cables.
I replaced the battery under warranty, had the starter tested (good), sanded where the starter meets the block clean, sanded the cable on the starter, bought a brand new ground cable ans sanded where it meets the block and it still does the exact same thing...
new parts: solenoid, postive cable, ground cable, battery, starter.
Voltages : at batt key off, 12 at batt cranking, 10.8. Starter side of solenoid cranking, 10.8. At ground on block cranking 10.8. At starter cranking... 2... If the key is held iy climbs to 8 and the solenoid clicks like mad...
So I'm guessing the cable to my starter is bad? If I were to take it off tommarow and hook it to pos side of batt and check voltage at the other end would iy show? Its cold outside and I'm not supposed to be working on vehicles here anyway lol
So I'm guessing the cable to my starter is bad? If I were to take it off tommarow and hook it to pos side of batt and check voltage at the other end would iy show?
Could be the cable, could also be a defective solenoid (new doesn't mean good). That's
assuming the cable battery <-> solenoid is good.
So, yes, remove that cable from the solenoid and connect it directly to the battery and
See if the starter motor behavior changes, and
Measure the voltage down at the starter.
It's going to spark pretty intensely when you first connect it, press as much of the cable's
terminal onto the battery's terminal as you can and hold it there tightly.
I'm NOT talking about "jumping the solenoid" UNLESS you are talking about using maybe a
jumper cable to to directly connect both fat cables together (and even then that's not really
a good test, it introduces yet another opportunity for failure)). Applying voltage to the little I
terminal doesn't count.
What I'm talking about is *removing the solenoid from the circuitry* to see if the problem
goes with it or not.
I jumped it from batt + to starter by taking the starter cable off the solenoid and holding it on the batt +
OK, cool.
The behavior didn't change? That implies the problem is not in the solenoid, you can hook
the cable back to it.
You're the guy who's getting like 2V down at the starter, correct? Although I've seen it
only once or twice myself, the rubber insulation sometimes becomes separated from
the end terminals, or cut, or cracked, this allows moisture to get inside the cable. the
copper strands then get a green & white powdery substance on them (corrosion).
If all your grounds are good and the battery, starter motor, battery cables, solenoid are
known to be good, about all that's left is that dang cable. Let us know whatchya find....
Of course, this is all assuming there's nothing wrong with the engine itself, it's free to
turn over.
Yep 2v at starter, unless my brother held the key and it would climb to 8 while the solenoid when nuts.
The idea that the engine is locked up has crossed my mind... Three weeks ago it would start and run with a jump though... I did plan to pull all the plugs tomm and see if it will crank then.
Six bucks or whatever for a starter cable isn,t all the money in the worl, but after 50 for a dizzy, 275 for a carb, ten for this cable... Etc etc lol. Its adding up on a 600 dollar truck lol.
Six bucks or whatever for a starter cable isn,t all the money in the worl, but after 50 for a dizzy, 275 for a carb, ten for this cable... Etc etc lol. Its adding up on a 600 dollar truck lol.
Yeah... this is why it's better to diagnose a problem before throwing parts at it and hoping
for the best. (Not trying to say you did that, just trying to make a general statement.)
If you have 10v at the solenoid end of the cable while cranking and 2 at the starter end you have a bad cable. When you're checking at the starter if you are touching the stud on the starter and not the end of the cable it could be a bad connection at the starter, you need to test at the cable itself.
Ok, I took the starter cable off, hooked one end to batt + and my multimeter to the other... 12v at the other end, so the cable is good right?
The ends were greasy and whatnot... sanded it off cleaned it up put it back on, touched end to the batt + and got a clunk out of the starter... nothing more.
Wtf is this telling me??? I'm quite mechanicaly adept but this thing is kicking my ***
Ok, I took the starter cable off, hooked one end to batt + and my multimeter to the other... 12v at the other end, so the cable is good right?
The ends were greasy and whatnot... sanded it off cleaned it up put it back on, touched end to the batt + and got a clunk out of the starter... nothing more.
Wtf is this telling me??? I'm quite mechanicaly adept but this thing is kicking my ***
A clunk out of the starter means it engaged but it won't spin the engine. That means it isn't getting enough power, the starter has a dead spot (like my wrecker which will clunk sometimes but then engage on the next try), or the engine isn't spinning. I'd say bench test the starter, but it's new... Then again as stated before, new doesn't always mean good...
Does the engine turn over by hand? You should be able to put a socket on the crankshaft bolt (15/16" socket on a straight six) that holds the pulley/harmonic balancer and turn with a breaker bar or ratchet.
The power cable going to the starter could have a bad connection in it, and when you cleaned things up and moved it a certain way, it could have been moved just right that you get enough power through it to at least engage the starter.... If you have any other cables around I'd try testing with them.
Ok, I took the starter cable off, hooked one end to batt + and my multimeter to the other... 12v at the other end, so the cable is good right? No, a single strand of wire out of that cable will read 12v while doing that, but will not carry enough current to operate the starter.
The ends were greasy and whatnot... sanded it off cleaned it up put it back on, touched end to the batt + and got a clunk out of the starter... nothing more.
Wtf is this telling me??? I'm quite mechanicaly adept but this thing is kicking my ***
Not really telling you anything other than still wont crank when you do that.
I wondered about it needing to be under load... the engine turns over. I suspected it would,like I said three weeks ago it was doing the same thing, but it would crank slowly and start with a jump.
Now it wont do anything and cranks slowly with a jump lol