I just bought a 2010 Ranger XLT 4WD. I'd guess it's like most 4WD's and the front diff is open (useless) and the rear diff is some kind of posi. My son has a 78 CJ5 and we put in lockrite lockers front and read. WOW what a difference. My question is since it's a DANA 35 in front is it worth installing the lockers (stupid question I know it is) but will I need to also need to install manual hubs? I do have manual hub's on the jeep. Can I still use the auto hub locking stuff on the Ranger or must I convert to manual hub's if I install the lockrite's?
On the rear I know nothing of fords POSI system. Are they worth a anything?
I'm not going to use this for any serious off roading and 80% is highway and 20% is dirt roads that can get very muddy. This is every day. Some bad snow at times.

I know in the Jeep the front lockers made a world of difference and well worth it. Adding the rear lockers make's it unstoppable for the most part. Add to the the tara-low 4:1 grears in the xfer case and little will stop it.

I'm not trying to get the Ranger to be a Jeep. I talk of the Jeep because that's what I know and can reference too.

My question is should I just leave the ranger stock? Put lockers in the front or front and back? Installing lockrite's in the front is no big deal (the jeep has a Dana 35 in front also so I've done it before) but has manual hubs.


I had a 2008 Chevy Silverado that I traded for the Ranger. I loved the Locking rear end in it. Is the ranger rear diff as good? If it is as good then I'll leave it stock. Depending on how one thinks I may have downgraded to the ranger from the Chevy. But I do not need a big truck anymore. I bought the Ranger so my wife can get to work, she's an RN, so has to make it to the hospital no matter the weather. It's just smaller and easier for her to drive. The Chevy was not 4WD and she was kinda scared to dive it so I had to get up at 4am to take her to work then pick her up at 8 pm. sucked!!

My wife is pissed I bought the Ranger anyway so I need to make damm sure I can do what it takes so she won't get stuck under some pretty bad road conditions that the Chevy would make it through but have a "Scary" ride for her.

To sum all this up, what can I do to make the Ranger better in deep mud and snow but not lose the highway drive ability. I'm thinking jusy lockrite's in the front will do it.

Thank you all for the comments that will come. Just remember I'm not trying to build a rock crawler or hard core off roader. Just a dependable (better than most 4X4's, 1 in front and 1 in back turning) without spending $1000's. I do all my own work so don't factor in me paying for labor.

BTW are there any gotya's I need to know about with the 2010 Ranger and the 4.0L.. I've heard/ read that you need to change the spark plugs ASAP because the factory ones are two piece plugs that can break off in the cylinder heard causing BIG problem getting the broken part out. If that's true then I'll put in some Bosch platinum 4's soon. Also is it worth the $250 to install a K&N air intake system?

Doug

 

1. You have a limited slip rear end

2. You cannnot install manual hubs, you have live axles (stronger than earlier axles with hubs)

3. For 80% highway driving and occasional dirt roads, lockers are not worth it.

4. Your l/s will work great for what you do. It has saved me a few times

5. If you want to ensure better traction. Get meatier tires.

6. I didn't realize Ford was putting 2 piece plugs in the Ranger. Change those

7. Do not install that intake system. If you want you could do a drop in filter, but the one you have will be fine.

 

Thank you very much. It sounds like I'll just leave it stock and save some money. With the saved money It sounds like I'd be better off getting a good set of winter true Mud & Snow tires and some swap meet rims for the winter and use the stocks for the rest of the year. Yes, I'll just do a stock replacement K&N filter and a set of Bosch 4's

Thanks a bunch

doug

 

When I was speaking with the Ford dealer re a new 2010 Ranger 4x4 4.0 Eng. a couple of months ago I was told that the 2010 no longer offered a Posi diff. as an option. This was confirmed by the sales Mgr. after researching the "Books".
Didn't seem right them and still doesn't.

What are 2 piece spark plugs?

Rog

 

limited slip > posi

 

No it doesn't seem right that they'd not have a posi anymore. I need to do some more research on that, its hard to believe. If it's not limited slip then its kinda worthless. I for sure will need ether the front with a locker or the rear with posi (limited slip). If both are open diff's then that really sucks and is pretty cheap of them. I'd have done more checking before I bought it but it was such a good deal it didn't make much difference. I can add a lockright for $250 to the Dana 35.

One big problem with some ford V6's is they used a very cheap (I guess that's the reason) sparkplug. The plugs were made in two separate pieces and "glued/fused" together, the bottom part being after the hex part of the plug. After a few years when you try and remove the plugs they'd come apart leaving the top part of the plug in the socket and the bottom part stuck in the head with no "NUT',(hex) to turn it with. Basically you have no way to get the rest of the plug out short of pulling the head(s). People have drilled them out but that's not good. all kinds of shavings end up in the cylinder.
I do not know what model years they used these plugs. I'd guess they still do. It's a very long plug, maybe that's why its made in two pieces. Anyway Bosch, NGK and some others, even motorcraft make a one piece replacement. Go figure. So I'll use Bosch 4's and since the heads are aluminum use antisze on the threads.

If anyone knows for sure about the rear diff please let me know. The copy of the window sticker says nothing about it. there is a Preferred equipment package 867A

Doug

 

Get the axle code of the door tag

 

Would a Torsen limited slip rear axle (Ranger) from a salvage yard do what you need?

Many Ranger owners have not had good luck with Bosch plugs. Ranger engines seem to perform better with Motorcraft or Autolite double platinum plugs.

 

Avoid the Torsen, many people have shear bolts on those, they are expensive to fix.

Don't get Bosch plugs, get the Motorcrafts

 

I don't have the axle code yet, wont get the truck till tomorrow. No, the window sticker doesn't say. Anyway I emailed Richmond gear, makers of lock-rights, to ask the experts. The first post here said I have limited slip, well unless all 2010's have LS which may be the case, then I need to find out for sure. From what I've read I doubt it has LS. I'll let ya know. I really hope I'll be eating my words. 5-6 different post with all different answers. I need the correct answer. That said I do thank all that did reply, even if not correct it gives me more things to research.

Thank you
Doug

 

I didn't think they changed anything in 2010. But maybe the XLT didn't come with limited slip. That would stupid if it didn't

I still think lockers are a waste especially since you don't wheel.

If I didn't already have l/s I would go to the junkyard and find one that had it and swap it in.

 

I thought there was a thread on here a few months back about the 2010 rangers not being available with a posi. Anyway, I put a Richmond gear no-slip locker in the rear of my 06 sport. Really helps in the mud and snow, truck came with a posi but it wouldn't always grab when I needed it. It was easy to install, did it in the driveway in a couple hours. It isn't bad on the street either.