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Hey All!
Spent a lot of time in the SD Tech Folder yesterday and I'm going to check my FICM this morning. I have the exact cold start issues everyone was talkin about. On top of that, I can't keep an alternator in my truck. I get an intermittent battery light after 10 miles or so and it goes on and off randomly after that. Batteries load check good, cables clean and tight etc. I've replaced the alternator twice in the last 6 months (since I got the truck) and over the holidays I pulled the alternator and took it to a good repair shop. They said they replaced the diode plate. Think the power draw from a bad FICM could take out the diode plate?
Oh yea, 2006 F250 6.0 Diesel. (still trying to get the hang of this new "internet" thingie!??)
Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; Feb 6, 2011 at 11:37 AM.
Reason: Add Vehicle info
Update. After alternator repair for the second time, decided to test batteries "one more time" and the passenger side failed load test! This battery had been check four times previously and passed each time. I'll see in a few weeks if it is truly fixed this time.
Hey All!
Spent a lot of time in the SD Tech Folder yesterday and I'm going to check my FICM this morning. I have the exact cold start issues everyone was talkin about. On top of that, I can't keep an alternator in my truck. I get an intermittent battery light after 10 miles or so and it goes on and off randomly after that. Batteries load check good, cables clean and tight etc. I've replaced the alternator twice in the last 6 months (since I got the truck) and over the holidays I pulled the alternator and took it to a good repair shop. They said they replaced the diode plate. Think the power draw from a bad FICM could take out the diode plate?
Oh yea, 2006 F250 6.0 Diesel. (still trying to get the hang of this new "internet" thingy!??)
The answer is a faulty alternator can lead to problems with the FICM once the voltage from the batteries drop.
They were stickered as 8/08. Dropped in a new pair of Duralast gold tops ($265) and the alt with new diodes/plate/regulator. Seemed to run noticably better and gas mileage was up a couple of MPG's as a bonus. Only 40 miles or so on it so far though, I'm not gonna be completely satisified until it goes a couple of months with no battery light.
I guess the odd thing about this problem is the bad battery checked good several different times before I caught it. The batt light was on when I shut down the truck the last time-maybe that's why it showed bad. I've heard of plates warping or bad terminal connections inside the case. But I never had on go bad intermittently like that before.
finding reman alternators that are worth the money are hard to do. that is one of the worst reman parts out there.
You got that right, and IMHO motorcraft remaned alternators are one of the worst. They last just long enough to get out of warranty (13 months maybe) which makes the lifetime warranty parts the way to go (sometimes).
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