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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

86' 6.9 Dies while driving?

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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 07:42 AM
  #16  
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The water in the filter idea sounds like a good one. But your pressure gauge will point that out if that's the problem. The pressure gauge will clue you in on any of those problems mentioned that could affect fuel delivery to the injection pump.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 05:21 PM
  #17  
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The truck died on the home from school. It was sunny and 33 degrees. I made it halfway home and once again, all power was lost and then the truck died. This time the truck did not restart... I can't take this anymore, I need a reliable truck to get me to work, school, and home. It's also a plow truck which goes in hand with work.

I just replaced the fuel filter, the fuel filter filled right up with diesel on the first attempt to start the engine but the engine didn't start.

This leads me to believe its the injection pump.
The diesel was not at all gelled and the filter was quite clean....
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:02 PM
  #18  
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The only way you can tell if the filter is clean is to cut it open. Is it dieing at operating temp, or is the engine still cool? Hot, it is possible for the pump to show bad, while cold, not so much. You really need to find out if you have good fuel supply to the IP before dropping a lot of cash on one. Air intrusion can cause it to die as well. I used to battle that every so often with mine.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:11 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by fellro86
The only way you can tell if the filter is clean is to cut it open. Is it dieing at operating temp, or is the engine still cool? Hot, it is possible for the pump to show bad, while cold, not so much. You really need to find out if you have good fuel supply to the IP before dropping a lot of cash on one. Air intrusion can cause it to die as well. I used to battle that every so often with mine.
I cut the fuel filter open with a knife to help get leverage then looked in the cut. It was moderately dirty, no gelling or chunks though.

I checked for water, IDK what the previous owner did but there seems to be an old coffee can on the drivers side attached to some lines? I could not find the water filter, is this it?

Well, I started the engine and let it idle for a minute or two and made it 2.1 miles before it died. So I suppose the engine was still a bit cool.

My turbo seems to have a leak, I doubt this would cause any serious problems though.

How would I check for air intrusion?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #20  
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By pushing in the schrader valve on the filter housing when it dies to see if you have any pressure, or pulling the filter to see if it is full. Does it surge a bit before it dies?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by fellro86
By pushing in the schrader valve on the filter housing when it dies to see if you have any pressure, or pulling the filter to see if it is full. Does it surge a bit before it dies?
I have metal fuel lines, they were put in early '08 by the previous owner.
I doesn't really surge until I let off the gas when it's in the process of dying, it's more of a, "My foot is all the way to the ground and we are going 5mph and the engine sounds like it's at 800 RPMS!"
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:51 PM
  #22  
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The valve is on the filter head, looks like a tire valve. It is there to bleed out the air when doing a filter change. Even with metal lines, there will be at minimum rubber hoses to hook the lines up.

The water separator would be all the way back on the firewall, in the corner between the fender and the master cylinder booster. The drain on the bottom tended to fail, allowing air into the fuel system, causing trouble like you have. However, after the truck dies, what do you do to get it going again, or does it start up when you get back?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by fellro86
The valve is on the filter head, looks like a tire valve. It is there to bleed out the air when doing a filter change. Even with metal lines, there will be at minimum rubber hoses to hook the lines up.

The water separator would be all the way back on the firewall, in the corner between the fender and the master cylinder booster. The drain on the bottom tended to fail, allowing air into the fuel system, causing trouble like you have. However, after the truck dies, what do you do to get it going again, or does it start up when you get back?
How would I bleed out the air? I just got it to start for the first time after changing the fuel filter...

Usually, It takes me about 20 minutes to start after it dies like this. Though this last time it died, I tried to start it for 30 minutes with no avail and got a tow home from a friend. I've found that switching from the Front to the Rear fuel tank helps until it starts, When it dies. Maybe it's just a theory, who knows. Usually to get it started I just crank it over while pumping the gas pedal, take a 2-3 minute break and crank it again, take another 2-3 minute break and so on until it starts.

I just refilled my radiator, it was a gallon low. Could this have caused any problems?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:14 PM
  #24  
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The capacity on the cooling system is such that I doubt it really caused any issues. In order to bleed the system, you need to have that valve open while cranking, otherwise, it is difficult to clear the lines. That is where an electric pump is handy, leave the key on, open the valve and it self bleeds. You kind of have to treat these diesel fuel systems like brake systems, no air. You keep grinding on the starter, it will give out, need to check some of this other out before you have to replace that too... If it was IP, you would come back to it later, and it would fire like nothing was wrong. The only other way would be it dies, and never restarts again... I still lean toward air in the fuel system.

Is the rear tank full or at least above 1/4 as well? It is possible you have a problem with the tank switching valve. It could draw off a tank hat doesn't have enough fuel in it, basically running you out of fuel, or worse, stuck between the tanks, and not allowing enough fuel flow. Back to needing to see what the fuel supply pressure and flow is...
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 10:16 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by fellro86
The capacity on the cooling system is such that I doubt it really caused any issues. In order to bleed the system, you need to have that valve open while cranking, otherwise, it is difficult to clear the lines. That is where an electric pump is handy, leave the key on, open the valve and it self bleeds. You kind of have to treat these diesel fuel systems like brake systems, no air. You keep grinding on the starter, it will give out, need to check some of this other our before you have to replace that too... If it was IP, you would come back to it later, and it would fire like nothing was wrong. The only other way would be it dies, and never restarts again... I still lean toward air in the fuel system.

Is the rear tank full or at least above 1/4 as well? It is possible you have a problem with the tans switching valve. It could draw off a tank hat doesn't have enough fuel in it, basically running you out of fuel, or worse, stuck between the tanks, and not allowing enough fuel flow. Back to needing to see what the fuel supply pressure and flow is...
I'm going to hit the sack. I'll bleed the lines in the morning and give you guys an update.

Also, I had both tanks at 1/2 full.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #26  
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Seems like the replacement of the fuel filter and clearing the air out of the lines fixed my problem. It was 8 degrees out today, I did my normal drive at 55mph with no problems! The truck is now running better than it did the day I bought it!

Thank you all so much for your help and time!
It's been a pleasure!

One last question,
How often should the fuel filter be replaced?

Thank you,

Andrew
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #27  
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Fuel problems

I found the fuel tank pickup tubes on my truck were rotted out,thus sucking air. Also, the elbow in the gas line from the fuel pump was rusty and although I don't know for sure if it had holes in it, when replacing the pump, that line was junk but it wasn't visible with the fuel pump on the truck. Check for dampness all along your fuel lines. Prior owner said the fuel tanks leaked, when in fact, it was the pickup tubes that were leaking.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 11:41 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Pwnm30rdi3
Seems like the replacement of the fuel filter and clearing the air out of the lines fixed my problem. It was 8 degrees out today, I did my normal drive at 55mph with no problems! The truck is now running better than it did the day I bought it!

Thank you all so much for your help and time!
It's been a pleasure!

One last question,
How often should the fuel filter be replaced?

Thank you,

Andrew
I don't know what the recommended interval is, but you might find yourself changing it more often if you do not get fuel at the same place all the time. Sort of keep this in the back of your mind each time you fill up, especially at a strange fuel station. It's not unusual to get a bad batch of fuel once in awhile, and then changing the filter will be in order. You will notice a few miles down the road after a fill-up that the truck suddenly is not running right.
 
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