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Coolant leak problem.

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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 08:09 PM
  #1  
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Coolant leak problem.

Hey guys. Well after fixing the fuel leak from my fuel lines and fuel drain valve, i have been watching to see if any gas was leaking. I still smell fuel but dont see any. THEN i started seeing a heavy drip coming from engine compartment and backed up and saw it was coolant. When i start the truck up first thing in the morning it has a pretty heavy constant drip coming out for about 5 minutes after i drive, then it stops for the day. I tried looking to see where its coming from but theres just too much **** in the way to see anything.

Anyone know what this could possibly be? Its about 20 degrees here and i really dont want to spend the day in the driveway not knowing what to look for. Everyone on this site is always helpful, so thanks in advance for any recommendations!!

-Matt
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 08:27 PM
  #2  
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Just replaced my water pump yesterday. Possibly, drip from the weep hole behind the pulley dripping down onto the LPOP. Then down from there. Or, it could be the gasket between pump and lower radiator hose.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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I had the gasket (o-ring actually) between the lower rad hose and waterpump start leaking on mine.

A flashlight and mechanics mirror is helpfull for seeing around and behind all the ****.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Well i started the truck this morning and no more leaking. I do smell fuel and it looks like its coming from the top of the fuel filter? Anyways im going to start looking for the leak under the hood and hopefully find it. But im curious why it would be pouring out yesterday and today there's nothing. Can anyone give me an answer to why it would leak and then stop?


Thanks!

-Matt
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #5  
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Mine did the same thing. With temperature differential changes, marginal seals and O rings can leak and seemingly stop and come back. My fuel bowl cap would intermittently leak, snugged it up slightly and it stopped for good. It wasn't on very tight. It would leak, I would smell diesel, then stop at times until I finally check how tight it was and snugged it up. Also had the fuel drain valve leak but new O rings fixed that. Water pumps, thermostat housing seals can act the same with with respect to intermittent leak and stop issues.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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Hm... When you had coolant leaking, was it a heavy consistant leak? Thats what mine was doing, and today its not. What gets me confused is yesterday when it leaked it wa about 25 degrees out, today about the same. But 2 weeks ago i was in weather that was -30 degrees and it didnt leak at all...

I also have a squeaky belt ever since this happened. Could this be from fuel dripping onto the belt making noise? I put belt dressing on it and that didnt help it at all.

Thanks!!!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SnoPro1234
I also have a squeaky belt ever since this happened. Could this be from fuel dripping onto the belt making noise? I put belt dressing on it and that didnt help it at all.

Thanks!!!
This sounds like the shaft seal on water pump might be going and causing the leak. Remove the belt and see if the water pump pulley has in and out or up and down play in it. It should have zero play if the seal is good.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:25 PM
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Oh yea, lots of play. I took the belt off and grabbed the fan blade and it moved all over the place.

Does this mean i need a new water pump, or just a seal?


Thanks so much for the help!!

-Mat
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:31 PM
  #9  
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[quote=SnoPro1234;9927405]Oh yea, lots of play. I took the belt off and grabbed the fan blade and it moved all over the place.

Does this mean i need a new water pump, or just a seal?

water pump for sure.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:35 PM
  #10  
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Here's what is involved.

YouTube - Water Pump RnR
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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Okay. Well im just happy i found the problem, this was driving me NUTS!

Now the auto parts store i deal with says they have a MasterPro one with the down tube (whatever that means) for $149, and they have one with out the down tube for 114. Any idea which one is best?

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #12  
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I would stick with OEM on pump. Clay has a good price on them: Riffraff Diesel: OEM Powerstroke Water Pump
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 03:13 PM
  #13  
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If you can wait for shipping this is the best buy you will find on a new OEM water pump. Riffraff OEM Water Pump Riffraff has fast shipping.

I would also suggest you get the t-stat, t-stat housing and the upper and lower rad hoses. At least a new t-stat. This pump comes with all the o-rings.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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Thanks for the link and the video!!

Now from the research i have done i have seen about half of the guys replacing the thermostat, but this is the first ive heard of buying a new housing and hoses. Im not doubting you, but why the new hoses and housing?

Thanks again!!

-Matt
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #15  
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From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by SnoPro1234
Thanks for the link and the video!!

Now from the research i have done i have seen about half of the guys replacing the thermostat, but this is the first ive heard of buying a new housing and hoses. Im not doubting you, but why the new hoses and housing?

Thanks again!!

-Matt
If you have the upper hose that goes through the belt you will want to replace it with the hose that goes around the belt. If you have to ever change the belt you won't have to drain half the coolant to remove the upper radiator hose. Check with Clay at Riffraff to see if the upper replacement hose he offers is the around the belt type. Maybe he will sell the upper separately.

The t-stat housing gets pretty rusty. You can clean it up and paint it if you want. They can also get bent if not torqued properly (15 lb/ft) and not reseal when reinstalled.

If it has been awhile since everything has been replaced then when you do the water pump is a good time to do it all.

The choice is always yours.
 
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