some paint prep questions
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,224
Likes: 19
From: scotia. NY 12302
some paint prep questions
we are stripping the body parts down to bare metal. what grit sand paper should we sand it with prior to priming? do i understand correctly that we can epoxy prime, then bondo? do we epoxy prime again after bondo. do we then need a primer/filler after that? we are going for a decent satin black look for our end product, we will do the final coats in one stage satin black paint. this is a driver/weekend work truck. thanks for the help. dick
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 792
Likes: 3
From: Sandy Run SC
I sand blasted mine, then used self etching primer. I did the bondo skiming over the self etch primer. After that we blocked the bondo with 36 grit and then 80 grit. Used high build primer, blocked with 80 again, another coat of high build, guide coat and then wet sanded with 400. Another coat of high build. Next wet sanding will probably be 600 then a sealer and base coat clear coat. Sand orange peel with 1200 then buff to a mirror finish. God that is a lot off work but worth it in the end. Still working on it. 
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
While etching primers were the way to go for many years, today's technology has moved on to Direct To Metal (DTM) primer. These primers are very versatile and easy to use. I have been painting cars on and off for over 40 years now and have tried many products my preference is SEM Metalock...a 2-part epoxy product that is mixed at a 4:1 ratio. Used straight from the can it is a high build primer and great for bare metal. Thinned at half the max it is a surfacer to be used over filler. Thinned at full level it is a sealer that can be used to cover a large panel that has both factory finish and/or spots of filler/primer. Metalock is sold in a kit, 1 gal of primer with 1 qt of activator...and can be bought for about $100 or less on various websites or at your local autobody supply.
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 50
From: northwest MT
we are stripping the body parts down to bare metal. what grit sand paper should we sand it with prior to priming? do i understand correctly that we can epoxy prime, then bondo? do we epoxy prime again after bondo. do we then need a primer/filler after that? we are going for a decent satin black look for our end product, we will do the final coats in one stage satin black paint. this is a driver/weekend work truck. thanks for the help. dick
Many people apply filler over epoxy primer, sand, then prime again.... but I don't. I put it over bare metal then epoxy over all......Then filler primer.
If you use an etch primer, make sure it is compatible with your topcoat.....some are not. As a rule, DO NOT put filler over etch primer.
Have fun...
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 109
From: Northshore, MN
Pretty much how mytbtruck says it. If you're not looking for a show-like finish, the 400 grit would be good enough. Don't forget: Clean Clean Clean!
Ok, a couple other posts in between, lol. There's a difference between bondo and putty. The putty can be put on over the prime coat. (Bondo =filler (polyester resin) Putty= catalyzed glazing putty)
Not trying to hijack Reed's thread....
I've heard of the metalock before, but have not tried it yet. I may have to get some and experiment. Thanks for some examples of use Charlie. Otherwise epoxy primer a whole car, and then sanding it off when working a repair area seems feasible, though maybe a waste of epoxy primer, but when you work as slow as me, rust would most certainly reappear before I get a round-tuit. Does that seem right, Scott?
Ok, a couple other posts in between, lol. There's a difference between bondo and putty. The putty can be put on over the prime coat. (Bondo =filler (polyester resin) Putty= catalyzed glazing putty)
Not trying to hijack Reed's thread....
I've heard of the metalock before, but have not tried it yet. I may have to get some and experiment. Thanks for some examples of use Charlie. Otherwise epoxy primer a whole car, and then sanding it off when working a repair area seems feasible, though maybe a waste of epoxy primer, but when you work as slow as me, rust would most certainly reappear before I get a round-tuit. Does that seem right, Scott?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 792
Likes: 3
From: Sandy Run SC
While etching primers were the way to go for many years, today's technology has moved on to Direct To Metal (DTM) primer. These primers are very versatile and easy to use. I have been painting cars on and off for over 40 years now and have tried many products my preference is SEM Metalock...a 2-part epoxy product that is mixed at a 4:1 ratio. Used straight from the can it is a high build primer and great for bare metal. Thinned at half the max it is a surfacer to be used over filler. Thinned at full level it is a sealer that can be used to cover a large panel that has both factory finish and/or spots of filler/primer. Metalock is sold in a kit, 1 gal of primer with 1 qt of activator...and can be bought for about $100 or less on various websites or at your local autobody supply.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
My favorite was Dupont Centari with the 243 (I believe that was the number) catalyst. I sprayed a ton of that stuff, looked like patent leather when it flowed out. I remember that I was pissed when the price went up from $17 a gallon to $23! It's hard to get the reducer for that price today.
Yep the prices have skyrocketed but the materials are indeed much improved...most everything I do today is BC/CC...I like the idea of having a step between the color and the shine where I can smooth out any imperfections. I am doing the doors on this truck right now...after 15 years the rust bubbles started popping out, gotta love black!
Yep the prices have skyrocketed but the materials are indeed much improved...most everything I do today is BC/CC...I like the idea of having a step between the color and the shine where I can smooth out any imperfections. I am doing the doors on this truck right now...after 15 years the rust bubbles started popping out, gotta love black!
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs
I would be careful using a coarse grit like 80. It will sure make fast work of stripping, but can leave you with large scratches that have to be filled in before doing any top coats. I prefer to use 220 or 320. May take a little longer but also won't gouge as bad as 80. Then I use a good primer to metal to seal it up and go from there. I have used Western 5 Star DTM in the past with good results. It is a budget line of prep products, but it offers a few different methods for application depending on how thick you want it. As far as wet sanding the final clear coats, I use 1000, 1200, 1500 and then 2000 during the finishing/final buffing process.
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