Hub question
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 251
Likes: 6
Hub question
My autolock feature on my hubs doesn't seem to be working on my 2000 PSD. I don't utilize the 4WD much and I dont mind manually locking the hubs. The markings are worn off the hubs and I want to be able to double check that my hubs are either locked or in the auto position.
Is all the way turned clockwise in the locked or autolock position?
Is all the way turned clockwise in the locked or autolock position?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Have checked to see if you have vacuum going to the hubs ? Mine quit working last month and it turned out to be a bad vacuum selonoid which is located on the passenger side inside fender. Easy to replace ($55 later). You can pull vacuum lines apart at the fittings and trace the vacuum..
The usual place to loose vacuum I guess is a bad line right at hub.. It gets all the road debris/ice/snow/water, etc..
The usual place to loose vacuum I guess is a bad line right at hub.. It gets all the road debris/ice/snow/water, etc..
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
I replaced each of my wheel-well vacuum hoses with 22-1/2 inches of 3/16" (4.8mm) SAE 30R7 fuel hose each side. Secured the ends with a tie-wrap.
It should last a lot longer than OEM, and it fits perfectly.
Pop
It should last a lot longer than OEM, and it fits perfectly.
Pop
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
That is a great idea !
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
I must have done that five or six years ago, and they are still in perfect condition.
I'm going to check the front brake pad thickness today, so I'll make sure the tie-wraps are still intact, too.
Pop
I'm going to check the front brake pad thickness today, so I'll make sure the tie-wraps are still intact, too.
Pop
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 251
Likes: 6
Good call on the vacuum fix. I'll check that out next time I'm working on the truck and report back.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 23
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From: Northern Indiana
Also Pull the nipples out of the hubs where the vacuum lines hooks up and see if they are clogged. The nipples are steel and are known to rust and plug. After that reinstall them and test your hub seals, if you have a brake bleeder with a gauge or some kind of vac checker. Hook it right up to the hub and make sure that all 3 seals are still working. Your hub should lock right in if your hub seals are still working and hold vacuum.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 251
Likes: 6
Also Pull the nipples out of the hubs where the vacuum lines hooks up and see if they are clogged. The nipples are steel and are known to rust and plug. After that reinstall them and test your hub seals, if you have a brake bleeder with a gauge or some kind of vac checker. Hook it right up to the hub and make sure that all 3 seals are still working. Your hub should lock right in if your hub seals are still working and hold vacuum.
How much PSI should I have to pump in it before the hubs lock up? Can I hear them lock as I pressurize them?
New User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Northern Indiana
You can do it one of two ways. One jack up a tire and spin it as you pump and you should see the axle start to spin when the hub locks or just move the front drive shaft back and forth and the axle going into that wheel should stop spinning. It shouldnt take much vacuum at all. Apply 15 in-Hg of vacuum to the wheel-end assembly and observe the reading for 30 seconds. The wheel-end assembly must not leak more than 0.50 in-Hg in 30 seconds. Keep in mind if one hub is not sealing air the system will not work at all
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