keyless entry key pad code
Bill,
The PATS module is on the column, it surrounds the keyslot for the ignition key. It must be removed if the ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced. It is placed there to send the signal to the key, and receive the response from the key.
Ours needed to be pulled at the dealer under warranty, to replace the key cylinder that was having problems with key insertion. The key cylinder's door did not always want to get out of the way of the key. I think the key-in-cylinder switch mechanism was not working correctly from the beginning. It was odd that the key needed to go in at a very precise angle. Then it evolved to the key would go in sometimes only if jiggled and worked in right. It wasn't the cylinder lock pins, it was the entry to the pin area proper that was the problem. The key door works the key-in switch, which is integral to the cylinder assembly.
This was the only warranty work in now 3 years.
The PATS module is on the column, it surrounds the keyslot for the ignition key. It must be removed if the ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced. It is placed there to send the signal to the key, and receive the response from the key.
Ours needed to be pulled at the dealer under warranty, to replace the key cylinder that was having problems with key insertion. The key cylinder's door did not always want to get out of the way of the key. I think the key-in-cylinder switch mechanism was not working correctly from the beginning. It was odd that the key needed to go in at a very precise angle. Then it evolved to the key would go in sometimes only if jiggled and worked in right. It wasn't the cylinder lock pins, it was the entry to the pin area proper that was the problem. The key door works the key-in switch, which is integral to the cylinder assembly.
This was the only warranty work in now 3 years.
Bill,
The PATS module is on the column, it surrounds the keyslot for the ignition key. It must be removed if the ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced. It is placed there to send the signal to the key, and receive the response from the key.
Ours needed to be pulled at the dealer under warranty, to replace the key cylinder that was having problems with key insertion. The key cylinder's door did not always want to get out of the way of the key. I think the key-in-cylinder switch mechanism was not working correctly from the beginning. It was odd that the key needed to go in at a very precise angle. Then it evolved to the key would go in sometimes only if jiggled and worked in right. It wasn't the cylinder lock pins, it was the entry to the pin area proper that was the problem. The key door works the key-in switch, which is integral to the cylinder assembly.
This was the only warranty work in now 3 years.
The PATS module is on the column, it surrounds the keyslot for the ignition key. It must be removed if the ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced. It is placed there to send the signal to the key, and receive the response from the key.
Ours needed to be pulled at the dealer under warranty, to replace the key cylinder that was having problems with key insertion. The key cylinder's door did not always want to get out of the way of the key. I think the key-in-cylinder switch mechanism was not working correctly from the beginning. It was odd that the key needed to go in at a very precise angle. Then it evolved to the key would go in sometimes only if jiggled and worked in right. It wasn't the cylinder lock pins, it was the entry to the pin area proper that was the problem. The key door works the key-in switch, which is integral to the cylinder assembly.
This was the only warranty work in now 3 years.
I was tied up today and will be leaving on a bowhunt for about 4 days- when I get back I will look again for the SJB. It looks like I was looking at it from the front end of the console but wasn't sure if it was the correct unit or not. Here is another thread and it is actually for an 2008 Mariner which I suspect is the same - Escape-Central - door keypad code location looks like I need to take the top of the console off.
Thanks to All for now, Oldstuff
Thanks to All for now, Oldstuff
I FOUND IT !!!
OK, I looked just like I had found and noted in the link in post #18 above. Gently pry plastic chrome trim ring up that is around the gear selector from the console top. Then gently pry the console top upward starting at rear with a thin putty knife and screwdriver, then lift rear of console cover up and over into a vertical position and then slide it upward while it is in front of gear select stick. The code print is small just as shown in picture, about #10 size in computer print. Mine was on left rear of SJB as shown in their picture.
Thansk to All and I hope this helps someone else!
Oldstuff
Thansk to All and I hope this helps someone else!
Oldstuff
OK, I looked just like I had found and noted in the link in post #18 above. Gently pry plastic chrome trim ring up that is around the gear selector from the console top. Then gently pry the console top upward starting at rear with a thin putty knife and screwdriver, then lift rear of console cover up and over into a vertical position and then slide it upward while it is in front of gear select stick. The code print is small just as shown in picture, about #10 size in computer print. Mine was on left rear of SJB as shown in their picture.
Thansk to All and I hope this helps someone else!
Oldstuff
Thansk to All and I hope this helps someone else!
Oldstuff
Saved me a trip to the dealer.
2009 Find Ford Escape Key Code
I just did it and it works....
there is a post on youtube for a 2010 escape. I have a 2009 and it worked as well.
1. With a non-marring tool, (I used a butter knife) pry up the chrome trim piece around the shifter. There are 4 tabs, essentially located at the 2,4,8 and 10 o'clock position on the bezel.
2. Remove the storage tray from underneath the center console armrest, and leave the armrest cover open
3. Grab the center console finish panel near the front cupholders and pull straight up. This piece is only held in place with a few tabs. REALLY difficult. I couldn't do it so I use the butter knife and pry up the center console. I moved the front seats all the way back and pry-ed where the cup holders would be. I got it up. It turns out there are 4 tabs. 1" in front of gear shift panel (left and right) and towards the back of console where it slopes up and meets the armrest cover (left and right)
4. Pull the finish panel up and back, and set it aside.
5. Once this is done, you should be able to see the Smart Junction Box (SJB) to the right and slightly ahead of the gear shifter.
6. On the left side of the SJB (i.e., facing inwards in the center console), there should be a label with a bar code that says "FoMoCo". In the bottom left corner (mine was upside down, so it was the top right corner), there should be a 5 digit number printed. This is the factory keypad code.
7. Before you put anything back together, close and lock your doors (make sure you have your keys), and try entering this code to verify that you did get the right number. Your doors should unlock, and you can then put everything back together.
8. Follow the owner's manual instructions for entering your own personal codes. I would add that you need to pull quite hard on the center console, try to get it to break loose on one side first. Have courage, it seemed unremovable at first. Also I used a plastic putty knife to remove the chrome trim piece, work it up slowly working from all four sides.
there is a post on youtube for a 2010 escape. I have a 2009 and it worked as well.
1. With a non-marring tool, (I used a butter knife) pry up the chrome trim piece around the shifter. There are 4 tabs, essentially located at the 2,4,8 and 10 o'clock position on the bezel.
2. Remove the storage tray from underneath the center console armrest, and leave the armrest cover open
3. Grab the center console finish panel near the front cupholders and pull straight up. This piece is only held in place with a few tabs. REALLY difficult. I couldn't do it so I use the butter knife and pry up the center console. I moved the front seats all the way back and pry-ed where the cup holders would be. I got it up. It turns out there are 4 tabs. 1" in front of gear shift panel (left and right) and towards the back of console where it slopes up and meets the armrest cover (left and right)
4. Pull the finish panel up and back, and set it aside.
5. Once this is done, you should be able to see the Smart Junction Box (SJB) to the right and slightly ahead of the gear shifter.
6. On the left side of the SJB (i.e., facing inwards in the center console), there should be a label with a bar code that says "FoMoCo". In the bottom left corner (mine was upside down, so it was the top right corner), there should be a 5 digit number printed. This is the factory keypad code.
7. Before you put anything back together, close and lock your doors (make sure you have your keys), and try entering this code to verify that you did get the right number. Your doors should unlock, and you can then put everything back together.
8. Follow the owner's manual instructions for entering your own personal codes. I would add that you need to pull quite hard on the center console, try to get it to break loose on one side first. Have courage, it seemed unremovable at first. Also I used a plastic putty knife to remove the chrome trim piece, work it up slowly working from all four sides.
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