When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am told that my injectors may be close to failing and my local shop wants $4,000 to do the job. My buddy and I are reasonable mechanics and we were wondering if this is a DIY proposition. how hard a job is this? Any input is appreciated (BTW, looked for a how-to in this forum and couldn't find anything).
I am told that my injectors may be close to failing and my local shop wants $4,000 to do the job. My buddy and I are reasonable mechanics and we were wondering if this is a DIY proposition. how hard a job is this? Any input is appreciated (BTW, looked for a how-to in this forum and couldn't find anything).
Actually just got finished doing the job. Literally just shut the engine off after the first run and came inside. It really isn't that hard at all just time consuming. I did injectors, Glow plugs, harnesses, gaskets, up pipes, 38R and ITP's Regulated return at the same time. I work two jobs so it took me about two weeks to complete. Time is something I have very little of. My advice to you is to steam clean your engine before you start. My front crank seal is leaking and has made a mess of everything. I do not have the luxury of a garage so cleaning outside in sub freezing temps was out.
Another question I have is whether there is an alternative to the Ford injectors ($354 each). I have looked around on the Internet and see a number of remanufactured units for around $150 or so. Does anyone have experience with any particular vendor for reman injectors? Also, Ford told me that the #8 injector is different to the other 7 but I don't see this mentioned on the reman sites - anyone know anything about this?
How do you know for certain your injectors are bad? It's pretty common for a shop to just say "bad injectors" for any injector-related code they get. However, most issues that crop up are typically electronic. In addition, shops don't have a bench injector flow test to actually see if the injectors are bad or not. It's a blanket diagnostic.
How do you know for certain your injectors are bad? It's pretty common for a shop to just say "bad injectors" for any injector-related code they get. However, most issues that crop up are typically electronic. In addition, shops don't have a bench injector flow test to actually see if the injectors are bad or not. It's a blanket diagnostic.
Thanks BigAl. @Pocket and Kwikkordead - the shop just told me that the injectors are showing the "typical signs" of imminent failure. They tell me that the truck is running rough (although it seems fine to my ears). If I take it to another shop for a second opinion. what kind of test should I be looking for.
How do you know for certain your injectors are bad? It's pretty common for a shop to just say "bad injectors" for any injector-related code they get. However, most issues that crop up are typically electronic. In addition, shops don't have a bench injector flow test to actually see if the injectors are bad or not. It's a blanket diagnostic.
What did the shop find specifically wrong?
What are your symptoms?
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
A big X2 on this.
I am with Curtis and Dan on this one...
Originally Posted by badger2196
Thanks BigAl. @Pocket and Kwikkordead - the shop just told me that the injectors are showing the "typical signs" of imminent failure. They tell me that the truck is running rough (although it seems fine to my ears). If I take it to another shop for a second opinion. what kind of test should I be looking for.
I appreciate all the input here!
"typical signs of imminent failure". I've had two injector failures (at different times). In both instances there was absolutely zero warning. Engine ran perfect one minute and crappy the next.
With your engine fully warmed up ,how smooth is the idle? With your foot on the brake and trans in drive (assuming you have an automatic) your truck should not be rocking around very much and should feel about the same as when idling in park.
At the risk of over simplifying...your injectors have 3 basic systems. Electrical, Oil and Fuel. An issue with any part of either of these systems could produce a wide variety of symptoms. This is the reason why we are asking for your symptoms so we can help you narrow down the issue.
A good scan tool can really help save you some $ if you are troubleshooting injectors. I use AutoEnginuity and have been very impressed with it's features. Here is a link: Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle
I will say this...I just drove my truck a very short distance (to burn fuel from the tank to do the in tank mods) and it ran better with the chip in stock than it did before in 80E. I can't wait to get it finished to do some real playing..oops I mean testing!
Alan, I'm only 30 minutes away. PM me if you want me to take a look at your truck, rather than taking to another shop for a 2nd opinion. I'd rather look at it myself than have a shop bend you over for $4000.
Got a chance to meet up with Alan earlier today, super nice guy.
His truck is good to go. That shop was trying to rip him off big time. His truck runs good, idles good, and everything on the scan checks out just fine. Only thing I could see is that he's running a grey CPS, but even then the numbers weren't too far out of whack.
Figured I'd give everyone an update on this thread.
Got a chance to meet up with Alan earlier today, super nice guy.
His truck is good to go. That shop was trying to rip him off big time. His truck runs good, idles good, and everything on the scan checks out just fine. Only thing I could see is that he's running a grey CPS, but even then the numbers weren't too far out of whack.
Figured I'd give everyone an update on this thread.