2003 6.0 will not start
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From: Indiana
2003 6.0 will not start
Bought 2003 ford f350 in July it smoked on start up and was very doggy until it had warmed up for up to 5 minutes.
October I changed out the ICP sensor and the wire harness. I put about 150 miles on it and it died one day as I was slowing down to stop at a stop light. It started after a little while and got me home. After that I noticed that it lacked power (I had to shift down when pulling hills it used to pull in 6<SUP>th</SUP> on the manual transmission). It started dieing if I let it idle, then it stopped starting at all. I get a little white smoke from the exhaust when I try to start it. I have replaced both batteries with new 1000 cca batteries. I have checked the voltage on the FICM, it is 48 volts and does not drop below 43 volts when the engine is cranked. I have disconnected the ICP, and I have checked the fuel pressure at the secondary fuel pump and get 55 psi (which drops to 0 if I leave the key on without cranking, if I cycle the key it goes back to 55 and will drop to o after the pump stops), the pressure goes to 55 PSI when I crank the engine.
Error codes include P0103, P0113, P0403, P0405, P0683, P1000, P1378, P2285, P2290, and P2617. Some of these come from me trying to start it without the air filter on (I think).
I have told you what I have tried can anyone give me a good idea on what I should try next.
October I changed out the ICP sensor and the wire harness. I put about 150 miles on it and it died one day as I was slowing down to stop at a stop light. It started after a little while and got me home. After that I noticed that it lacked power (I had to shift down when pulling hills it used to pull in 6<SUP>th</SUP> on the manual transmission). It started dieing if I let it idle, then it stopped starting at all. I get a little white smoke from the exhaust when I try to start it. I have replaced both batteries with new 1000 cca batteries. I have checked the voltage on the FICM, it is 48 volts and does not drop below 43 volts when the engine is cranked. I have disconnected the ICP, and I have checked the fuel pressure at the secondary fuel pump and get 55 psi (which drops to 0 if I leave the key on without cranking, if I cycle the key it goes back to 55 and will drop to o after the pump stops), the pressure goes to 55 PSI when I crank the engine.
Error codes include P0103, P0113, P0403, P0405, P0683, P1000, P1378, P2285, P2290, and P2617. Some of these come from me trying to start it without the air filter on (I think).
I have told you what I have tried can anyone give me a good idea on what I should try next.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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43V is too low for FICM voltage.
Your codes look somewhat similar to those discussed in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...not-start.html
Your codes look somewhat similar to those discussed in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...not-start.html
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From: Indiana
thanks for the reply,
Left out that I had change oil (15/40 Rotella) and filter (motorcraft, previous owner used oil filter with attached cap, wix), and fuel filters with motorcraft.
When I have the top filter cap removed the fuel flows up there but doesn't shoot out like the thread described.
From your response I will look at the FICM again, but if the fuel flow sounds like it might be an issue let me know what you think.
There is so much information in this forum that it makes my mind swim, you have been very helpfull in the past with a 92 F250 with 7.3 l which my son now has.
Left out that I had change oil (15/40 Rotella) and filter (motorcraft, previous owner used oil filter with attached cap, wix), and fuel filters with motorcraft.
When I have the top filter cap removed the fuel flows up there but doesn't shoot out like the thread described.
From your response I will look at the FICM again, but if the fuel flow sounds like it might be an issue let me know what you think.
There is so much information in this forum that it makes my mind swim, you have been very helpfull in the past with a 92 F250 with 7.3 l which my son now has.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I don't recall the 92F250, but glad to help where I can.
There is a test port on the secondary filter where you can rig up a pressure gauge. I have found this gauge to be one of the most important. You will need a few parts for it, but I can list them if you are interested in a gauge there. I would recommend a permanent gauge (not cheap though), but you can rig up a temporary set-up for immediate troubleshooting if you want. This is better than buying parts and hoping you will solve the problem. I believe that you will still need a FICM repair, but the fuel should flow strongly at the secondary filter.
There is a test port on the secondary filter where you can rig up a pressure gauge. I have found this gauge to be one of the most important. You will need a few parts for it, but I can list them if you are interested in a gauge there. I would recommend a permanent gauge (not cheap though), but you can rig up a temporary set-up for immediate troubleshooting if you want. This is better than buying parts and hoping you will solve the problem. I believe that you will still need a FICM repair, but the fuel should flow strongly at the secondary filter.
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From: Indiana
F250 was passive fixes, I found out what I needed by reading. last fix when the 4eod quit shifting turned out to be a fuze under the hood.
Back to the 2003, I had rigged up the pressure check using the adapter and an oil gauage from Carquest, shows 55 psi which holds for about 30 seconds after the fuel pump shuts off then drops to 0, goes back to 55 after cycling the key and holds at 55 when I crank the engine. I may try another set of filters and recheck the o-ring on the water separator (I did check that and it looked OK but I find small oring nicks to be troublesome)
do you recommend self repair of the FICM or sending it out, it is one of the older FICMs with 7 screws?
Back to the 2003, I had rigged up the pressure check using the adapter and an oil gauage from Carquest, shows 55 psi which holds for about 30 seconds after the fuel pump shuts off then drops to 0, goes back to 55 after cycling the key and holds at 55 when I crank the engine. I may try another set of filters and recheck the o-ring on the water separator (I did check that and it looked OK but I find small oring nicks to be troublesome)
do you recommend self repair of the FICM or sending it out, it is one of the older FICMs with 7 screws?
Fleet Owner
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I can't solder well, so I would be sending mine out.
Also, there is quite a bit of research to do to understand all the components that should probably be changed in addition to reflowing the solder.
I have heard good things about CircuitBoardMedics and SWAMPS. One Tech told me of a bad FICM that had been "fixed" by SWAMPS, but that is all the bad I have heard (and a LOT of folks use them).
No guarantees that these companies really are putting in quality parts, but I think it is worth the risk to trust them. Theoretically, they have the equipment to test them after the repair also. It is a fair chunk of change though.
Are you saying when you turn the key to the run position (but do not crank), you see 55 psig until you hear the pump shut off and then it drops to zero 30 seconds later (and you never crank or start it)?
Also, there is quite a bit of research to do to understand all the components that should probably be changed in addition to reflowing the solder.
I have heard good things about CircuitBoardMedics and SWAMPS. One Tech told me of a bad FICM that had been "fixed" by SWAMPS, but that is all the bad I have heard (and a LOT of folks use them).
No guarantees that these companies really are putting in quality parts, but I think it is worth the risk to trust them. Theoretically, they have the equipment to test them after the repair also. It is a fair chunk of change though.
Are you saying when you turn the key to the run position (but do not crank), you see 55 psig until you hear the pump shut off and then it drops to zero 30 seconds later (and you never crank or start it)?
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Find a TV/Radio repair shop Print out all the INFO online of what to fix what to replace part #'s and what not.Find a repair shop thats interested in fixing your FICM.
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From: Indiana
thanks for the advice about fixing the FICM, I have and engineering degree but my son is a certified electronic tech, hmmm maybe I will see if he is interested or I will look into the sources recommended.
yes the fuel pressure drops after I hear the pump stop. When I try to start the engine (engage the starter motor) the pressure goes back up to 55 psi. Starting seems to be out of the question all I get is a small amount of white smoke from the exhaust, a very small amount.
yes the fuel pressure drops after I hear the pump stop. When I try to start the engine (engage the starter motor) the pressure goes back up to 55 psi. Starting seems to be out of the question all I get is a small amount of white smoke from the exhaust, a very small amount.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Here is a place to start on the "repair areas"
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manuals/FICM.pdf
and this might be interesting:
http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...FICM_Guide.pdf
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manuals/FICM.pdf
and this might be interesting:
http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...FICM_Guide.pdf
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New User
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From: Indiana
touched up solder joints in the FICM, on voltage of 48 volts, start voltage staying right at 48 volts. The bad news is it will still not start, no smoke from the exhaust at all. Battary voltage still at 12.7 v and fuel pressure still 55 psi with key on and pump running.
any more suggestions?
thanks in advance.
any more suggestions?
thanks in advance.
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From: Indiana
thought about this and did not think it was pertinant but about a month before starting problems started in an attempt to jump a vehicle with a very dead battary the jumper cables were hooked up backwards, no sparks but as it set with the 350 running all the insulation went away on the jumper cables. I think of this now since the no start list mentions checking the fuze box, I have checked the fuze box but it also mentions fusable links, is there somewhere that describes the location of the fusable links?
Resident smarta$$
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From: Oaks,PA
thought about this and did not think it was pertinant but about a month before starting problems started in an attempt to jump a vehicle with a very dead battary the jumper cables were hooked up backwards, no sparks but as it set with the 350 running all the insulation went away on the jumper cables. I think of this now since the no start list mentions checking the fuze box, I have checked the fuze box but it also mentions fusable links, is there somewhere that describes the location of the fusable links?
I'm sorry if I was rude but you might have a real good "whoopsie" on your hands. I'd listen to Bismic if he has any suggestions, or cheezit, npccpartsman, there several guys here that are VERY knowledgeable when it comes to the 6.0. Good luck and again, I apologize if I was rude.
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From: Indiana
yes they have been a big help,
as far as pertenant the month and a half between the incident and the problems seems to reduce the possible revelance or at least I thought it would have. Still appriciate any additional guidance, I had tracked down through the no start check list to a point but had no luck, great truck when it runs but has been somewhat aggrivating. I am trying to figure out if there is an easy way to measure the High Pressure oil system? Another thought is what are the results if the replacement wire harness for the ICP is connected incorrectly, Ford had them color coded but the replacement has three wires of the same color, I checked and double checked when hooking them up but a bit of worry creeps in with that (again two months on the new ICP and wire harness prior to any problems).
Again thanks to all (including v8chumley) for reading and trying to help.
need and icon for slightly embarassed but not insulted.
as far as pertenant the month and a half between the incident and the problems seems to reduce the possible revelance or at least I thought it would have. Still appriciate any additional guidance, I had tracked down through the no start check list to a point but had no luck, great truck when it runs but has been somewhat aggrivating. I am trying to figure out if there is an easy way to measure the High Pressure oil system? Another thought is what are the results if the replacement wire harness for the ICP is connected incorrectly, Ford had them color coded but the replacement has three wires of the same color, I checked and double checked when hooking them up but a bit of worry creeps in with that (again two months on the new ICP and wire harness prior to any problems).
Again thanks to all (including v8chumley) for reading and trying to help.
need and icon for slightly embarassed but not insulted.