Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

5.8 coolant sensor housing leak-ready to go postal!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 1, 2011 | 11:06 AM
  #1  
stagarms's Avatar
stagarms
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: South Eastern CT
5.8 coolant sensor housing leak-ready to go postal!

ENCHO: THIS IS AN ANCIENT THREAD GUYS, I DECIDED TO BRING IT UP BECAUSE IT HAS RELEVANT INFO, NO NEED TO POST AN ANSWER FOR THE OP

The pix attempt to explain this. The sensor housing pipe, or whatever it is called has a hole where the rubber hose goes in. No, I can not slide the hose up to cover it. My mechanic who I trust pretty good says the housing was NOT designed to come off. So, can I get it off? Can I bypass this by just connecting the two hoses (he said I will ruin my engine because the computer will not get the temp info). How do I replace that? Neither Ford or any other parts store caries that fitting. I am ready to snap, I have to plow and I am loosing money. Thanks!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wigman65/5407534949/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wigman65/5407534949/


 
Reply
Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:11 PM
  #2  
TUFFY's Avatar
TUFFY
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: kirksville mo
Club FTE Silver Member

I believe that whole fitting unscrews from the manafold. maybe you could find one at a salvage yard.
 
Reply
Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #3  
stagarms's Avatar
stagarms
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: South Eastern CT
Tuffy,

Thanks for the quick reply. I have though of that, the assy clearly cant spin because of the two hose tubes sticking out. I am wondering if that nut on the bottom spins separately and will get it off.
 
Reply
Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #4  
Roger T. Pipe's Avatar
Roger T. Pipe
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 816
Likes: 2
From: Sandy Hook, CT
By bypassing it I don't think it'll ruin the engine. Worst case scenario it'll make you throw a check engine light. AFAIK, that fitting is removable, but its a bear. I think they put thread locker on it from the factory so that makes things tougher. But, yes, it is removable, just be careful not to snap anything. Lots of PB blaster, some heat (if you can get that close) and patience.
I hear you about the plowing...my plow truck is down now (I'm also in CT) and my back is hurtin-BAD!
Roger
 
Reply
Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #5  
stagarms's Avatar
stagarms
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: South Eastern CT
Roger,

Thanks. We are in a 2 level repair mode. Short term: get through next 48 hours. Long term: fix it right soon.

Ford engineers should be on the endangered species list...

Still love my truck though.
 
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 02:39 PM
  #6  
g-unit's Avatar
g-unit
New User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
5.8 ecs to intake manifold anti freeze leaking out

You cannot bypass this. They do not make the part anymore you can check with ford parts for the E6TZ18599A ELBOW parts secondary sellers. This part screws into the intake manifold and has two ports on the bottom one is a 1/4 inch nipple for cooling off the throttle body the other is a female threaded or a rigid pipe that goes to one side of the heater core there is a third above these two a threaded 3/4 or 5/8 for the insert of sensor itself. This part is made of stainless steel oem. You can use brass fittings from a pluming supply or stainless and use reducers or stub outs. Cut the rigid line and attach a hose with clamps this should get you a few years. There are dealers that still have this part in stock like Hawaii but at a cost of over 100 dollars for a 5 or 10 dollar fix you do the math. Another option is to take the item completely off. Sand blast the unit to remove any rust and re weld the leaking section.
 
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 03:06 PM
  #7  
stagarms's Avatar
stagarms
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: South Eastern CT
g-unit, thanks. I did a temp fix with hose and a hose clamp. When the wx gets better I am going to cut of the two tubes, take the sensor out and screw it out. I will rebuild it or make a new one. I have a friend who is a machinist and when I showed it to him he laughed and said he cold make one from scratch easy.

I see a business opportunity here. I could not find ANYONE who carried it. I may pull one off a block a the junk yard for my initial prototype. With millions of 5.8Ls out there I can't be the only one who ever had this problem.

One question: in your opinion, how hard will it be to un-screw that. Dissimilar metals and 14 years of not coming off...I am guessing heat it up and pent oil for a while.

Thanks
 
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 04:00 PM
  #8  
F-series Fan's Avatar
F-series Fan
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Just a friendly suggestion, also keep a close eye on coolant levels too. low coolant = steam, the steam will eat away at metals. Just thinking this might have caused the issue, or a small leak.
 
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 04:05 PM
  #9  
stagarms's Avatar
stagarms
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: South Eastern CT
Thanks, good info...my trusty mechanic also yelled at me because the coolant hasn't been flushed since Clinton was in office handing out cigars....corroded coolant can also cause metal fatigue too. In this case a pin hole which quickly escalated to a larger hole. Second time it has happened. Must flush the system soon...
 
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 07:57 PM
  #10  
g-unit's Avatar
g-unit
New User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by stagarms
g-unit, thanks. I did a temp fix with hose and a hose clamp. When the wx gets better I am going to cut of the two tubes, take the sensor out and screw it out. I will rebuild it or make a new one. I have a friend who is a machinist and when I showed it to him he laughed and said he cold make one from scratch easy.

I see a business opportunity here. I could not find ANYONE who carried it. I may pull one off a block a the junk yard for my initial prototype. With millions of 5.8Ls out there I can't be the only one who ever had this problem.

One question: in your opinion, how hard will it be to un-screw that. Dissimilar metals and 14 years of not coming off...I am guessing heat it up and pent oil for a while.

Thanks
Yes machining about 100 of these would be a good business, but machining a universal would be a better suggestion. A part that could interchange like a kit that has caps and reducers. I would suggest a three female port unit all 3/4 thread and maybe two sizes of reducers and one or two caps as a kit. Then one with just the universal peice. The kit should sell for around 40 and the single piece 27. This way its not just for the 5.8 but a larger market. The parts should cost to make around 4-6 dollars each and naturally that would be per 1000 ordered. But check with your machinist. I would also suggest a stainless version also. As far as unscrewing the old unit I would use a great penetrating oil and dowse it thoroughly the first day let it sit if your not in a hurry then spray the next morning. Make sure you take all the loose rust scale off and check your wrench for a tight fit. After that light heat and a good pair of vise grips. Since this part in stainless from the dealer cost 102 and if you find one they charge an excess of that around 130 I would suggest a good price point of 65 for kit and 38 for the part alone.
 
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:13 PM
  #11  
g-unit's Avatar
g-unit
New User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
After review I would also suggest additional parts seperately in both categories. These would be stub outs in different sizes for hose clamping.
 
Reply
Old Feb 8, 2011 | 12:15 AM
  #12  
stagarms's Avatar
stagarms
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: South Eastern CT
Great ideas! I will look into this. Do most Ford engines have this fitting in some form? Is this a high failure part in your opinion? Could add a garden hose addapter to for flushing...
 
Reply
Old Feb 8, 2011 | 03:17 AM
  #13  
AFSOCmech's Avatar
AFSOCmech
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Jackson, Tn
I had the same thing happen on mine and couldn't find one in a salvage yard or anywhere. I built a replacement from fittings off the shelf at Lowes. I replaced it recently with one I got from a parts truck I lucked into, but if you're interested I'll see if I can find it in the garage and see about pics or a diagram.
 
Reply
Old Feb 8, 2011 | 08:22 AM
  #14  
stagarms's Avatar
stagarms
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: South Eastern CT
Yes, that would be appreciated! Thanks. Necessity is the mother of all invention (and profit!).
 
Reply
Old Aug 17, 2016 | 06:33 PM
  #15  
Encho's Avatar
Encho
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Club FTE Gold Member
This is quite an old thread, but this is definitely info many of us sure need (i.e. my throttle heater line nipple just rusted out and broke). And I'm sure many more are having problems with this part (which I decided to call ECT housing).
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:51 PM.