on my truck there is 2 setting for the brake controller, one is electric and the other is electric over hydraulic, what is the difference in the settings.

 

I just did a google search to spell it out. Lots of folks do not trust electric brakes so they convert to these:


ELECTRIC OVER HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEMS:
The electric over hydraulic system is a very adaptable means of supplying robust braking power for a wide range of towing applications. Components of the electric/hydraulic system are mounted on the trailer and consist of an electric/hydraulic power unit, battery, hydraulic lines and hydraulic disc or drum brakes. A 12 volt power supply and electronic signal are supplied from the tow vehicle. The electronic signal is generated by an inertial brake controller of the type typically used with electric trailer brakes.

When the operator applies the tow vehicle service brakes, the tow vehicle controller generates an electronic signal in proportion to the inertia change (slowing) of the tow vehicle. The electric/hydraulic power unit receives this signal and produces hydraulic pressure in proportion to the signal strength. The resulting pressure is distributed throughout the trailer brake system.

Typical applications for electric/hydraulic brake systems range from small single axle utility trailers to large multi-axle recreational vehicles, as well as stock trailers, equipment trailers and flats, receiver, fifth wheel and gooseneck styles. Electric/hydraulic trailer brakes are easily supported by any tow vehicle equipped with an electric brake controller, allowing flexibility in tow vehicle/trailer combinations. Modifications to the tow vehicle are minimal and unobtrusive. Electric/hydraulic brakes are compatible with tow vehicle ABS. The trailer brakes may be applied independently of the tow vehicle brakes. Maximum braking effort is applied to the trailer brakes in the event the trailer becomes uncoupled from the tow vehicle.

I ripped the info from here:
Trailer Parts Superstore - Hydraulic Trailer Brakes & Brake Parts

 

If you have electric brakes there is a magnet that runs your brakes & if you have hydraulic brakes you have a slave cylinder that runs hydraulics that run the brakes..

THe hydraulic brakes don't need as much amperage so there is a different setting ..

The magnet needs more amps so you need to be able to "tell" the controller which you are using...


Maybe an expert can do a better explanation of this...

 

I'm not an expert but I thought the difference was because the two different types require a different proportion of application of voltage.

 

I believe the electric/hydraulic setups have both a hydraulic unit and a battery mounted on the trailer, so you actually need less amperage to operate the brakes. Its more of a "remote control". Where as straight electric brakes the controller is responsible for all the stopping power sent to the brakes. From my experience you usually find the elec/hydaulic combos on much larger trailers that take more stopping power. There common in the huge horse trailers. I think there also good for boat trailers where the axles/brakes get submerged. There are also air/hydraulic and I believe electric/air systems.

 

Electric brakes are standard on most trailers with 2 axles., including very heavy travel and 5th wheel trailers.

I replaced the standard brakes on my toy hauler with a disc brake setup.
All the disc brake kits are hydraulic. So you need something "extra", in this case an electrically driven hydraulic pump.
My pump is capable of 1600 PSI.

Typically, most E/H units require less amperage then standard E brakes for a given stopping ability.

E/H tend to have a delay that may or not be felt by the driver, this is caused by the time taken for the pump to spool up. The opposite is true when you release the brakes.

The two reasons above are the best I could find as to why the controllers used for E/H brakes are designed for E/H systems. Prodigy makes a real nice controller capable of E/H brakes.

The best brake controllers tie into the vehicle’s hydraulic system for trailer control.

Guess what – for 2011 the SD has a superior brake controller, using a pressure transducer for the control of the current being sent to the trailer. Essentially a hydraulic over electric over hydraulic control circuit.

And it is a “smart” controller. Your trailer sway control is still effective. And one of the neat features I found is that once you drop below a set speed (20 mph I think) the current output is reduced about 20% to reduce the “brake grab” you may get from having the gain set a bit high.

With my GMC and a Prodigy controller I use to raise the boost level and when pulling into a town with some stop and go traffic the brakes would grab early, so I was constantly adjusting the controller.

This new system should make it a true set and forget control.