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I brought the truck and when i went too do the brakes on the front I found out that some one broke the bolt off that holds the caliper wedge in place and epoxyed it in place, I know need to fix this have been to on a 78-79 dana 60 front that there is 2 bolt holes on the caliper mounting bracket is this true?
If No, How should i go about removing the broken bolt there is nothing sticking out for me too grab onto with vice grips its flush.
Where could i get the bolt removed a machine shop?
Your best bet would be to look for a replacement in a salvage yard. Beyond that, A decent machine shop can probably extract the broken bolt for you. I remove broken bolts myself but have the lefthanded drill bits and easy-outs to do it...........
A) That mounting bracket is easily removable. If you can't fix it, take it to a machine shop.
B) The wedge does have two reliefs in it. Drill and tap another hole in the approximate location of the other relief. If the wedge doesn't have a second relief, swap it with the other side. Either that or grind a new relief. Drill hole, tap new threads, install bolt, done.
It really was a bad design. It should be a 3/8 bolt over the tiny little 1/4" one. One problem is if the head of the bolt is too big it will rub on wheel. It could always be tack welded on... If I sat in front if it and looked at it I'm sure I could figure a better solution.
I spent the day today making custom optima yellow top battery boxes . 5 1/2" deep steel box with steel lids that bolt together with matching angle iron tabs and 1/2" x4" bolts with nuts welded to underside of lower tab. No more plastic caps to crack and 1/4" rods to bend or tear out of tiny original holes on battery pans.
So many things in life could be improved with such minor tweaks it drives me nuts!!
O if you do tack it make the tack big enough to hold it in place but small enough that with a good hard smack with a hammer on the end of it the tack will pop in case of the need of a roadside/trail repair and you have no grinder. Also have the tacked caliper slider slightly sticking outwards so it is easy to smack. Also it wouldnt be a barbie doll dreamhouse wordworking hammer it would be a minimal 3 lb but i prefer my 4 lb mini sledge.
Again it's the little details..
Ok I came up with a permanent fix now lol.
If you took the slider clip and welded the half circle indent in with a filler full circle piece you could then drill out broken bolt, tap for a 3/8 NCT then match drill the section you just welded on slider to be slightly bigger than 3/8 and now instead of using a 3/8 bolt with big head that will rub , use a Allen key head set screw http://littlemachineshop.com/Product...0/480.1575.jpg
The screw will be flush if cut to the right depth with no concern of rub yet now strong.
If you were real good and lined up just right you could tap the slider clip as well as long as it lines up deadly.
Come to think of it I may have one side with a broken stub too. I may do this one day. It'll take some work but will be a good fix
i just drill them out and put a larger 3/8" grade 8 bolt in their place, u can make a little spacer outa pipe and then tighten it up, all you need is a drill a drill bit and a tap.
Drill out the bolt center with a very small drill bit, slowly step up to a larger size. Then put a eazyout in it and take it out. How to Use Easy Outs | eHow.com EASYOUTS, EASY-OUTS, EZ OUT, EZY-OUT, Bolt Extractor, Screw Extractor
I have even done this without an easyout with enough material and a punch to spin the bolt out from an angle. If you use a punch and some penetrating oil to loosen the piece left in the threads then this will help also.
I broke a leaf spring bolt on an old dodge front one time and rook a drill drilled a hole in the center of the bolt and the pounded a srewdriver in to the hole and turned it with a wrench and it came right out. Just my .02
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