Before I tear into it theres a few questions I have to ask....

Timing..when I pull the heads off, will I also be taking a timing chain off, then I will have to reset the timing?

Exhaust manifolds, do the have to come off the cylinder heads or do I just have to dissconnect the up pipe from them....?

Injectors, do i have to pull them out of the heads or can they stay in?

Are there any tools besides normal wrenches , sockets,screwdrivers and a tourque wrench?

I plan on doing arp studs, gaskets, sct fitting,and a bigger drian tube for the turbo..

If i forgot anything or something you think you should add let me know. Thanks

 

#1 NO there is no timming chain.
#2 I would those things are heavy enough by there selfs.
#3 Yes take them out. If you don't you run the risk of messing up the tips.
#4 Torques drive sockets. I would get a good set of the tamper proof torques bits
Make sure you mark all your connecting rods, bridges, rockers, ect... so when you go back together you will know where they go. I wouldn't recomend pulling the glow plug bus bar off. You can just leave it on the rocker box when you unbolt it. The reason I say this is they are hard to get out without breaking them. Don't ask me how I figured this out. Take your time and really pay attention to everything it's not to bad of a job.

 

Great thanks, what size torques?

So when the heads come off I can put them back on and not worry about timing at all?

I figure the job all said and done will take a month, taking my time, replacing anything that might need to be done, cleaning everything and making sure everything goes back together smoothly.

 

There are a few different sizes of torques you will need. I bought a set that starts at like T10 and go all the way up to T55. You won't need all those sizes but I like having them if I ever need them.

As far as timming no, but there is somthing about turning the motor with the crank so many times one way and so many times the other when going back together. I can't really answer that one, because when I did mine I didn't do it. Probably should have, but didn't know about it till after I did it. I got away with it that way though.

Also I just rememberd you will need a long shank T40 torques as well for the injectors. You can get a set of 4 long shank torques from autozone for like $20. When installing the injectors torque the hold downs to 26 LBS. All that is in the tech folder under changing injectors if you haven't seen it yet.

Are you ordering the upper gasket kit? That's what I did it was like $500 on ebay (I think my local ford wanted like $650). It will have all the gasket, orings, and anything else you will need to do the job. Although a lot of the gaskets and stuff are reuseable, I liked the idea of replacing all the o-rings and stuff. Plus it will come with the injector o-ring kits that you MUST replace the o-rings and copper compression washer when you remove them.

 

Timing..when I pull the heads off, will I also be taking a timing chain off, then I will have to reset the timing?

when you reinstall the heads the crank dowel should be at 6'oclock. basicly make sure no piston is at top dead. also the heads are not so light using a cherry picker and a chain is better then tring to lift them oput by hand.

Exhaust manifolds, do the have to come off the cylinder heads or do I just have to dissconnect the up pipe from them....?

you can do it either way. I leave mine on

Injectors, do i have to pull them out of the heads or can they stay in?
you dont have to remove them... you should remove them though


Are there any tools besides normal wrenches , sockets,screwdrivers and a tourque wrench?
not really


I plan on doing arp studs, gaskets, sct fitting,and a bigger drian tube for the turbo..
IMO get an oil cooler rebuild kit and a new t-stat too.



just an fyi you have 15 hours from start to finish to do this job if you want to beat warranty times

 

Long shank basically means the tip is longer than an average tourqex?

15 hrs LOL, I figure start taking it all apart next weekend, work on it about 2hrs each night and maybe bolt it all back together the weekend after....

So it will probably take me 40HRS if all goes smoothly,,,,,

I just need to make sure I can borrow a T.W. that can go up to 240ft lbs I believe thats what the bolts need to be tourqed to?

I was going to get intake gaskets, injector o-rings, head gaskets

I just replaced the oil cooler not that long ago when I did the egr delete...I should have just done the studs while I was in there.

 

arp is 210 ft lb iirc, but that info should be in the box with the studs.
also I would recomend turning the engine over bu hand after the the first 70 ftlb to make sure all valves are moving as they should. then continue on with the remaining steps.

 

Ford 6.0 Turbo Diesel Injector O-Ring Seal Kit CM5055 - eBay (item 350434247932 end time Feb-23-11 10:57:47 PST)

6.0 Ford Powerstroke ARP Head Studs/Black Onyx Gasket - eBay (item 310203329450 end time Feb-20-11 17:12:21 PST)

 

I'm not sure what the new torque spec on the ARP's is but I know it was lowered from 240 considerably. I also know that using their lube is critical to getting the proper torque spec. for their product.

 

You should be able to get the injector seal kits for about $6 each (or less) from a dealership. Brown's Diesel has the stud kits for $400 shipped. Factory gaskets are MUCH better than the Black Onyx IMHO.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-CM5.../dp/B000IYHCCC

 

tim my post count is catching up

 

2006POwerstroke Would you mind taking pics as you go and posting them for all of us who haven't done it yet?

 

hahahahaaaaaaaa.....only because I've been sick......BRING IT!!!!!!!!!!

 

tim theres 6 years differance in join date slacker.....

I guess this is a highjcking of a thread too. sorry

 

So I shoud go with stock OEM head gaskets?

I will also chech out browns diesel

Yes I will be taking MANY pictures for myself just incase something goes wrong...

I just need to figure out the dowl pin size and I will start ordering parts.