iwas working on my 71 f100 today, and i found a vacuum leak, i fixed that adjusted the carb but there is still a miss, i was adjusting the distributer andvancment, if i turn to the left as far as it will go, there is no miss but it makes the exhaust sound totally different, it runs smooth but it just bugs me that it sounds different and the throttle response is way better, idk if thats what its supposed to do or not, but if i turn it in the middle it runs smooth and its alot quieter but there is a miss every now and then, anyone know if im doing something wrong or if im doing something right, might be a dumb question but im only 16 haha, any input would be greatly appreciated.
thanks yall

 

It sound like your trying do the old shade tree fix it. Well we've now come a long ways. But some one always return to old school stuff when one has no tools for doing a tuneup on these old classic up. As I did about the same thing as you did but, I was a bit younger once upon a time.. 1. You need a timing light. 2. A vacuum gauge 3. A compression gauge. These our all great tools to take the guess work out of what your doing.. Note do a Test drive when you make any adjustments of stuff. This will help you learn what works and what doesn't.. Sorry i'm not much help saying get some tools. Good luck young man i'm sure your fix it with what I added..my 2cents.
orich

 

thanks orich, i have those tools, my grandpa was a mechanic at the ford dealership in bartlett and rosenburg texas, when he passed i inherited all his tools, he taought me alot however he passed a few weeks ago and we were in the middle of building my other 71, we got most of the engine put back together however i never learned how to use a timing light, could someone give me a few pointers on how to corectly use it, today i got new poinst and gapped it to 17, still has a miss, and how do i do the compression test, and the use a vacum guage?

 

Got a similar problem as well as that hopefully it can be resolved the same way

 

Well there's a number of types of timing light here's one type mostly used. Has 3 wire one red lead gos to the + side post batt. other to ground post. Then one clips over the #1 plug wire.. As you may know there's a marking on pulley or damper. Most guys mark TDC with white paint or chalk so they can see a starting point that they can see or a mark at the advance marking they want to set it at like 6*8*10*degrees BFTDC with a point lined up tab on the front timing cover..point light at the pulley & pointer if you don't see the your white mark then turn the dissy one way or the other until aligned this all with motor running. But vacuum line must be removed from vacuum-advance and carb end plugged so it won't suck any air in to carb.. To do Compression test remove all spark plugs and coil wire. Block carb open so it can suck as much air as possible start at #1 plug have a friend crank engine over about 3-4 time while holding or as gauge in screwed in the plug hole. Record all amount on paper in inside of hood underside. Gee I cut you loose for now got to go. But check out YouTube on how to's for more info do doing this..orich

 

thanks for the tips, im not really sure what i did, i havent really driven it that much and today i drove it to school and to get it inspected, the more i drove it the beter it ran, so i guess it just needed the crap blown out

 

Ah fresh gas may help it it's been sitting for a while..Or even the Heet additive in the tank helps remove water in the tank..
orich

 

thanks yall, it runs rally good, but now that i drive it more i notice more stuff thats wrong, something in the front end pops wen im at a stop sign and turning it, and sometimes wen im going down the road it will just randomly pop out of gear, it only does it in 3rd gear and only wen im going over 60, anyone know what it could be? i put a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing when i first got it, any ideas?

 

what type of shift is it 3 on three maybe linkage issues. But mostly it's synchronizes is bad same with a 4 speed. But can also just be shift forks guides. If turning the steering wheel and you hear noises check radius arm bushing and any other steering linkage have a friend turn the wheel while you watch for any movement from bad rubber bushing...
orich

 

it was a 3 on the tree, but i had trouble getting into gear when i first got it so i just cut a hole in the floor so now its a floor shift.

 

anyone know if i can put a 5 speed in it out of a newer model truck, mabe save some gas??

 

I went to the 1998 nv4500 dodge 5spd o/d fairly ez to do. just do your home on how and to do.You'll have to have the drive line cut about 6" shorter. Mind ended up about $1700-1800 but I put in new flywheel new clutch ans so on..I had to change the rear tail shaft to the chevy short shaft since mind is a 4x4..But there's is a few guys have done the 5spd so do a search and see what comes up..
orich

 

will it bolt right up, i dont have that much money to spend on this, i was thinking like a 5 spd out of a new ford maybe, i also have 2 other bumpsides so if i like it i will probably end up doing it to all of them haha

 

No none will bolt right with out a adapters to the fe motors. But you can get the zf ford 5spd with the whole motor that came in some of these later pick ups. But this stuff is not cheap just do a web search here for more info..
orich

 

aint there a 5 speed that came with some of the late 80's early 90's model ford with the I6's. dont they have the same bolt holes as the 302?