speakers??
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,433
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From: Spring Lake
Got that part lol, but I'm still confused regarding 6x8 or 5x7? are they the same holes or... what came in it?
Also, if I get a speaker that fits that criteria will I blow it to pieces when I get the head unit I want? Would I need to put an amp in for these new speakers? All the new vehicles we build at my plant have an amp for the 6x9's they have in them, and a separate amp for the subwoofer.
Then some crossover voodoo? And really, in terms of speakers... they seem to range a HUGE price range, what differentiates this cost. I already looked at speakers at the store and couldn't tell the difference between the $200 pair and the $25 pair... how much do you really get what you pay for? Does the cone material really matter? Am I going to have to get creative with the soldering iron to hook them up like i did in my 86 ford? Keep in mind the newest car I've ever messed with the audio in was my old 86 Ford p/u that never had a radio to begin with (so i got doors from an 89 with speakers in them and got creative with some monster cable and the soldering iron)
Also, if I get a speaker that fits that criteria will I blow it to pieces when I get the head unit I want? Would I need to put an amp in for these new speakers? All the new vehicles we build at my plant have an amp for the 6x9's they have in them, and a separate amp for the subwoofer.
Then some crossover voodoo? And really, in terms of speakers... they seem to range a HUGE price range, what differentiates this cost. I already looked at speakers at the store and couldn't tell the difference between the $200 pair and the $25 pair... how much do you really get what you pay for? Does the cone material really matter? Am I going to have to get creative with the soldering iron to hook them up like i did in my 86 ford? Keep in mind the newest car I've ever messed with the audio in was my old 86 Ford p/u that never had a radio to begin with (so i got doors from an 89 with speakers in them and got creative with some monster cable and the soldering iron)
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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Another vote for Pioneers. I have them in most of my Mustangs and plan on installing a set of Pioneer four ways in my truck. you can often find them for around $100 for four ($50 a pair) at many retailers and Ebay. They are more than capable of producing great sound and power.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
I'll try to get something posted within the week. I should add that this powered sub will not shake the truck and have passer-by's gawking ... but it will fill the interior with ample sound. It's good for folk who do not wish to mod the interior a-lot or go all-out, but want an improved (modern) sound. It's small enough to lay right in the bottom of the center console; some guys w/ 250's also mount it under the seat.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Spring Lake
So I bought some pioneer speakers as outlined in this article, however the harness doesnt line up (pioneers use a fat post and skinny post vs. the factory 2 pin clip. None of the wires in my truck match the colors shown in any of the wiring diagrams i could find... which wire is hot and which one is negative? striped or solid? Dont have a test light before i get soldering
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 422
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From: N. Carolina
I'm really liking the idea of this. How did you wire it in (power and to the back of the factory head unit)? I've been looking at replacing the speakers and I might do this at the same time. Trying to hold off buying a new head unit for now (can't afford it, and I like the stock look).
Now for the sub in the console, it takes a little effort. You'll have to take the console out and disassemble it to mount the sub inside ... it's not very hard to do. You'll have to make a 3/4" hole in the bottom of the console for the wiring to pass .. a grommet makes this hole look professional, but you really wont be able to see it after the sub's in there anyway. I used the flat length-wise brackets that came with the sub and bolted it to the inner colsole box with 4 #10 screws and speed nuts ... I used 4 rubber "faucet repair" washer (13/32" thick) between the bracket and the console box to reduce any vibrations. For the wiring, all you need to is some wire taps to tap into the speakers wires that are under the left & right front door thresholds. you can run the wires under the carpet ... having some "fish tape" will help do this. For power, I routed the main power wire & the accessory power wire under the carpet and down the drivers side threshold to the fuse box. Using two "Buss HHH Accessory Mini Add-A-Line" fuse taps (Advance Auto), I tapped into the #21 fuse for the power (#21 is for heated seats which I dont have) and the #42 fuse for the "delayed" accessory. The sub only pulls 8 amps, so it's within the 10 amp rating for the fuse tap.
I don't have many pics of this when I did it, and once it's done you cant see much but the top of the sub. There still plenty of room in the console after the install too ... just wouldn't put anyhing small in there as it might roll under the sub. It sounds just fine for what it is and the space it takes up!
I haven't forgot about the pics ... will try to post them up this weekend.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 422
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From: N. Carolina
Here are some crappy pics I found on my HDD of when I was prepping the inner console for the Kenwood Sub ...
Here's a pic of the hole for the wires (w/o the grommet) ... this hole faces the drivers seat. You can also see the two small mounting holes for this half.
Here's the two halves of the inner console; showing the four mounting holes and the larger wire hole.
Here are the bracket, screws, rubber bumpers, and speed nuts. The plastic of the console would be between the bottom of the ruber bumper and the speed nut.
The sub with the brackets installed.
The sub mocked-up inside the inner console.
Here's a pic of the hole for the wires (w/o the grommet) ... this hole faces the drivers seat. You can also see the two small mounting holes for this half.
Here's the two halves of the inner console; showing the four mounting holes and the larger wire hole.
Here are the bracket, screws, rubber bumpers, and speed nuts. The plastic of the console would be between the bottom of the ruber bumper and the speed nut.
The sub with the brackets installed.
The sub mocked-up inside the inner console.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Bradenton, FL
I have kicker all the way around, if your looking for really really really awesome doorspeakers for a great price, go on ebay and look for Kicker KS680, these are 6x8 door speakers that directly replace the stock ones, they sound awesome, i have them in my truck and bought all four for 127 bucks shipped. 6x8 pioneers where 60 bucks at wally world by me. Kickers IMO are way better
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,433
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From: Spring Lake
Thanks for the sub info! Now that I have Pioneer speakers in the truck I definitely think I need one... the new speakers are much clearer but lost a lot of bass compared to the stockers with the factory head unit.
I may have to pick one of them subs up here around my birthday... the valentines day fund went into the truck (my true love) instead of to a chick, and lord knows i cannot sacrifice st patty's day fund
I may have to pick one of them subs up here around my birthday... the valentines day fund went into the truck (my true love) instead of to a chick, and lord knows i cannot sacrifice st patty's day fund
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 93
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...o-install.html
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 2
I too am thinking about adding some better sound to my truck. I have an 01 F250 CC and everything ive seen so far it leads me to believe that the biggest subs i could fit behind the rear seat are 10's, maybe a shallow 12. I have a buddy that give me a regular size kicker 12" sub. Can anyone say for certain whether it will fit in this truck or not? What size speakers are you guys using in similar year models?
If you look under your rear seat there is a large void that extends up into the rear seat. That space will be used for the enclosure.
I know I can fit either four 8s or two 10s in there. I haven't decided which way to go.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 2
There are other options for a crew cab that will yield better output from the woofers (and be safer for the woofers) than sandwiching them between the rear wall of the cab the the seat.