Steering Knuckle problem
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Steering Knuckle problem
I'm attempting to replace my worn ball joints in my 2001 350 4x4 cc. Everything proceeding smoothly until I need to remove the SK.
I have been following the outstanding walkthrough that was posted by Racerguy. But try as I might the SK will not come off ... I got the upper BJ
loose because a sleeve worked its way out of the hole. No matter how hard I beat on the lower.....its not coming off. I'm afraid that if I keep on whacking this SK with an 8lb sledge, I will soon be in the market for a new one. I've bent (ruined) two pickle forks. Can I beat on the BJ bolt stem since it will be thrown away anyhow? Any suggestions greatly welcomed.
I have been following the outstanding walkthrough that was posted by Racerguy. But try as I might the SK will not come off ... I got the upper BJ
loose because a sleeve worked its way out of the hole. No matter how hard I beat on the lower.....its not coming off. I'm afraid that if I keep on whacking this SK with an 8lb sledge, I will soon be in the market for a new one. I've bent (ruined) two pickle forks. Can I beat on the BJ bolt stem since it will be thrown away anyhow? Any suggestions greatly welcomed.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Canton, IL
You need some PB blaster, and a heat source. (acetylene torch or map gas torch).. Heat the axle ears, not the ball joint or the knuckle. Not too much, or you'll temper the metal, just nice and hot (not smoking hot) spray the pb blaster on the ball joint stud, You will see the liquid 'suck' into the ball joint. A few more hits, and i bet it falls out.
of American machinists
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From: NORTH IDAHO
Ive done this on two superdutys so far and it has worked both times. Get a long pry bar, a 3 footer or so. Put it between the lower edge of the knuckle and the stationary ear. While having someone exert strong downward pressure on the bar ,hit the top balljoint with the sledge.
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From: Blaine, TN
X2 on what both of them said. I just did mine on my buddies a few days ago on his drivers side in an hr and a half. Knock the pickle fork on the bottom, but not enough to bend it off, so it will keep pressure on the joint. Then hit down on the knuckle with a hammer, I use a 2lb but if you have an 8lb that works too.
If that doesn't work just use penetrating oil and heat as mentioned above.
If that doesn't work just use penetrating oil and heat as mentioned above.
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Thanks for the tips ! I finally got it....kept spraying with solvents and silicon and whacked it a couple of times with a well aimed 20lb sledge.
I was able to hammer out the old bj's , but could not get the new ones in
(no tool)....so I'm going to take it to a local garage and have them install the new bj's.
The drivers side is just going to get a new hub assembly.....hopefully that will be enough to clean up the extra play in the axle. I put new seals on the pass. side axle also.
It had both loose rings dangling, inner and outer.
The hub is a little dry but theres no play or noise
in it so I'm going to put it back on after I grease it up to Guzzles specs.
Will bad ball joints cause extra play in the axle ? Or is that all because of seals and hub assembly ? And I thought the injectors were a tough job !
I'll take injectors over front end work....
Thanks again for the help.....
CJ
2001 F-350 4x4 cc srw
I was able to hammer out the old bj's , but could not get the new ones in
(no tool)....so I'm going to take it to a local garage and have them install the new bj's.
The drivers side is just going to get a new hub assembly.....hopefully that will be enough to clean up the extra play in the axle. I put new seals on the pass. side axle also.
It had both loose rings dangling, inner and outer.
The hub is a little dry but theres no play or noise
in it so I'm going to put it back on after I grease it up to Guzzles specs.
Will bad ball joints cause extra play in the axle ? Or is that all because of seals and hub assembly ? And I thought the injectors were a tough job !
I'll take injectors over front end work....
Thanks again for the help.....
CJ
2001 F-350 4x4 cc srw
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From: Blaine, TN
Bad ball joints wont cause extra play in the axle, they will however contribute to overall play if you were to jack one side up with the brakes locked or locked in 4wd and tried to rotate the wheel.
When I put new ball joints in a hub on these trucks, I have a piece of pipe that just barely fits through the bj hole and catches just right on the outer part of the joints to hammer them in. It usually doesnt take much, I take a stiff wire brush on my drill and clean the holes out good and smooth and put neversieze on them. Then knock them in without damaging the joint itself.
When I put new ball joints in a hub on these trucks, I have a piece of pipe that just barely fits through the bj hole and catches just right on the outer part of the joints to hammer them in. It usually doesnt take much, I take a stiff wire brush on my drill and clean the holes out good and smooth and put neversieze on them. Then knock them in without damaging the joint itself.
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Thanks Ziggy...Great advice and it helped to get mine in. What about that sleave that came out of the receiver hole on the upper bj ? Should I just pound it back in flush....then Reattach the sk with the new bj ?
CJ
CJ
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play those funky u-joints white boy....
Its wierd , I have every thing back together fine....but there is still play in the u joints.....not as loosey -goosey like before....but I can see it getting that way pretty quick after a few hundered miles. New seals, inner and outer, put on by ford. Hub went back on no problemo.....and so did the smaller 4x4 hub. I'm thinking that this "floating u-joint" condition is indemic to the design..... Now to do the drivers side.....oh joy !CJ
2001 F-350 cc srw 4x4 ... 290k miles
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