what thermostat and why
#1
what thermostat and why
Its almost time to replace the upper metal water pipe on the water pump and if I have to drain coolant, I might as well replace the thermostat. I have no idea what's in there now but my truck takes FOREVER to warm up and when its "warm" the needle barely moves above the cold mark on a cold day. I know the t-stat isn't completely shot because in the summer time the temp moves further up the dial.
Anyway, I had been reading that international maybe uses a 203* stat? What is suppose to be in my vehicle and is it possible someone put a colder stat in? The previous owner had this thing set up for towing a 5th wheel something.... I want heat but I also don't wanna shoot myself in the foot if I decided to tow something down the road (no pun intended).
Just curious.
Thanks!
Anyway, I had been reading that international maybe uses a 203* stat? What is suppose to be in my vehicle and is it possible someone put a colder stat in? The previous owner had this thing set up for towing a 5th wheel something.... I want heat but I also don't wanna shoot myself in the foot if I decided to tow something down the road (no pun intended).
Just curious.
Thanks!
#4
Stick wit motorcraft! Parts store thermostats will not hold a constant temp. If they do it won't be for long. As for one sold online well if the maker is telling you on the site that it needs to be replaced every year and it costs twice as much as a Ford one then well, draw your own conclusion.
There used to be companies making "balanced thermostats" for hot rods and most pickups. Those days seem to be long gone. They were niice because it would not even begin to open till it reached it's rated temp then it would go about 10 deg high and balance out at the rated temp. They were some fancy looking contraptions and I had one in my 302 for years but they are gone. Our best choice now is motorcraft.
These things are just cold in the winter. Especially if you have the all metal radiator. About the only thing I can suggest from messing with mine so much trying to get heat is first pull out your blower fan and clean the condenser out. Suck it out with a shop vac, hose it out, whatever. If you ain't got air flow then you won't have much heat. Second, cover up the radiator. If you're gonna buy a fancy grill cover then don't forget to improvise something for the big holes in the bumper. It will help a little.
There used to be companies making "balanced thermostats" for hot rods and most pickups. Those days seem to be long gone. They were niice because it would not even begin to open till it reached it's rated temp then it would go about 10 deg high and balance out at the rated temp. They were some fancy looking contraptions and I had one in my 302 for years but they are gone. Our best choice now is motorcraft.
These things are just cold in the winter. Especially if you have the all metal radiator. About the only thing I can suggest from messing with mine so much trying to get heat is first pull out your blower fan and clean the condenser out. Suck it out with a shop vac, hose it out, whatever. If you ain't got air flow then you won't have much heat. Second, cover up the radiator. If you're gonna buy a fancy grill cover then don't forget to improvise something for the big holes in the bumper. It will help a little.
#5
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#7
It was -2 when I left Monday morning.
Within 4 miles of the house, the air coming out of my dash vents was to hot to leave your hand in front of.
Truck not plugged in, radiator not covered up and a 195 degree Motorcraft thermostat replaced last winter, when my truck was cold to ride in.
Now within 10 miles, I have the temp control turned down and the fan off and it is still 75 or 80 in the crew cab.
Within 4 miles of the house, the air coming out of my dash vents was to hot to leave your hand in front of.
Truck not plugged in, radiator not covered up and a 195 degree Motorcraft thermostat replaced last winter, when my truck was cold to ride in.
Now within 10 miles, I have the temp control turned down and the fan off and it is still 75 or 80 in the crew cab.
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#8
wow! all very interesting points. What are the symptoms of a blown open t-stat in a diesel? I still have heat (and I personally think its pretty hot but i have nothing to compare it to, i've had this truck for almost 5 years now and it's been like this ever since I got it) so i'm ruling out a bad t-stat from previous experiences (I had a buick once with absolutely no heat from a blown t-stat...man those were a few cold days i never want to re-live driving to and from work; and to top it off that stupid buick took 5 years to heat up on a summer day with a working t-stat. Guess it was just the design of the cooling system).
Anyway, I was looking for parts and actually found a navistar dealer right down the street. My day has been made. The were able to get me (what I have researched everywhere else and online) a $25 part for like $20. OK whoopty doo, a $5 savings but that's 20%...so 20% on a regularly $100 item is $20... my part just paid for itself.
OK so i'm rambling.... but aren't navistar/international parts better or at least the same as motorcraft parts (the did manufacturer the engine right?)
So what's the consensus here...do I replace my t-stat (since I have to eventually replace coolant system parts anyway) and if i do, what size t-stat. For some reason I'm leaning toward the 203* but how will this effect fuel mileage? I'm trying to do what I can to conserve precious $3.xx per gal fuel.
![Jammin](images/smilies2/party0031.gif)
Thanks,
Al
Anyway, I was looking for parts and actually found a navistar dealer right down the street. My day has been made. The were able to get me (what I have researched everywhere else and online) a $25 part for like $20. OK whoopty doo, a $5 savings but that's 20%...so 20% on a regularly $100 item is $20... my part just paid for itself.
OK so i'm rambling.... but aren't navistar/international parts better or at least the same as motorcraft parts (the did manufacturer the engine right?)
So what's the consensus here...do I replace my t-stat (since I have to eventually replace coolant system parts anyway) and if i do, what size t-stat. For some reason I'm leaning toward the 203* but how will this effect fuel mileage? I'm trying to do what I can to conserve precious $3.xx per gal fuel.
![Jammin](images/smilies2/party0031.gif)
Thanks,
Al
#9
The hotter t-stat should improve your economy but only a bit.
We've a 96 too. Recently, the drip from the water pump was found so it was time for a new pump. After doing research similar to yours, we concluded that switching over to the older ('94 & '95) pump would allow the use of a 'standard' style t-stat (cheaper).
Bottom line - new water pump & 205 deg stat improved things tremendously, at least for us. If you don't need to change your water pump, make sure you get the correct "long style" stat (Ford specific design) to minimize any of those problems.
We've a 96 too. Recently, the drip from the water pump was found so it was time for a new pump. After doing research similar to yours, we concluded that switching over to the older ('94 & '95) pump would allow the use of a 'standard' style t-stat (cheaper).
Bottom line - new water pump & 205 deg stat improved things tremendously, at least for us. If you don't need to change your water pump, make sure you get the correct "long style" stat (Ford specific design) to minimize any of those problems.
#10
It was -2 when I left Monday morning.
Within 4 miles of the house, the air coming out of my dash vents was to hot to leave your hand in front of.
Truck not plugged in, radiator not covered up and a 195 degree Motorcraft thermostat replaced last winter, when my truck was cold to ride in.
Now within 10 miles, I have the temp control turned down and the fan off and it is still 75 or 80 in the crew cab.
Within 4 miles of the house, the air coming out of my dash vents was to hot to leave your hand in front of.
Truck not plugged in, radiator not covered up and a 195 degree Motorcraft thermostat replaced last winter, when my truck was cold to ride in.
Now within 10 miles, I have the temp control turned down and the fan off and it is still 75 or 80 in the crew cab.
I've been driving these 7.3 PSD's since '96, and every winter I swear I'm going to get a gas truck the next year cuz I'm sick of not having any heat.
Edit:
"but aren't navistar/international parts better or at least the same as motorcraft parts (the did manufacturer the engine right?)"
I've been told even the IH/Ford stats are a crap shoot. Some guys go through 3 or 4 of them $80 stats before they get a good one. Not worth that kind of $$ to me. Just get a 203° from DieselSite and be done with it. He also sells a new water neck for a good price, replace that at the same time and don't look back.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#12
I also have the 203* stat from diesel site,bought the neck at the same time, and it was worth the money I think it has been almost 3 years with no troubles I don't notice any fuel savings at all but the motor does seem quieter when at operating temps and the heat reminds me of the kinda heat I got from all my previous FORD gas trucks just takes longer to get there LOL.
#15