Brake seizing while driving!?!?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Sounds like sticky cables to me.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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well
I checked the cables, all seams to be good, they move freely and unlatch when the e brake unlatches, the calipers are rusted on the outside, just surface rust though as I can scrape it of with a steel brush, in the break themselves there is almost no rust (they were replaced 11 months ago)
I went to the old highway no one uses any more and did a bunch of breaking tests, hard and light, many, few, short, long just forcing them to fail on me, nothing guess it was just ice but I will replace the springs ans adjuster in 3 or so weeks on both brakes.
I checked the cables, all seams to be good, they move freely and unlatch when the e brake unlatches, the calipers are rusted on the outside, just surface rust though as I can scrape it of with a steel brush, in the break themselves there is almost no rust (they were replaced 11 months ago)
I went to the old highway no one uses any more and did a bunch of breaking tests, hard and light, many, few, short, long just forcing them to fail on me, nothing guess it was just ice but I will replace the springs ans adjuster in 3 or so weeks on both brakes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
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From: Lost
The cables can freeze in the winter. When it's cold and wet, it's best to avoid using the park brake when possible.
I'd strongly advise spraying the cables with a good water-repellant lube. This will minimize the moisture getting inside and causing them to stick.
I'd strongly advise spraying the cables with a good water-repellant lube. This will minimize the moisture getting inside and causing them to stick.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
I believe you are in the right place and checking the rear brakes. Just to let you know, the round rusted part is a brake drum. Calipers are only in the front.
If you think it was frozen brake fluid, I would bleed the brakes a little bit when it warms up, to get any moisture out of the wheel cylinder. You won't be able to tell if the wheel cylinder is rusted and stuck, unless you take both brake shoes and squeeze them inward. It should be tough to do, but they both should move in, and both pins should move back into the wheel cylinders. Sometimes only one side gets stuck.
If you think it was frozen brake fluid, I would bleed the brakes a little bit when it warms up, to get any moisture out of the wheel cylinder. You won't be able to tell if the wheel cylinder is rusted and stuck, unless you take both brake shoes and squeeze them inward. It should be tough to do, but they both should move in, and both pins should move back into the wheel cylinders. Sometimes only one side gets stuck.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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what I am calling the calipers on the drum breaks are the little things I replaced last year, the line goes into them, they have a bleeder and 2 pistons that push little rods on either side
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I call these rear drum brake calipers
the rear is rusted but not the front and they move well.
I will be bleeding the lines again this spring doing a full flush
no I dont think the brake fluid froze other wise I wouldent have been able to get them unstuck by kicking my wheel.
I am almost positive water got into the drum and froze up inside.
either way I will flush and replace the springs, lube the parking cables and replace the last metal line left.
Store Locator | NAPA Online
I call these rear drum brake calipers
the rear is rusted but not the front and they move well.
I will be bleeding the lines again this spring doing a full flush
no I dont think the brake fluid froze other wise I wouldent have been able to get them unstuck by kicking my wheel.
I am almost positive water got into the drum and froze up inside.
either way I will flush and replace the springs, lube the parking cables and replace the last metal line left.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 63
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From: Canada
matt: Glad you checked for proper eBrake functioning first.
>>what I am calling the calipers on the drum breaks are the little things I >>replaced last year, the line goes into them, they have a bleeder and 2 >>pistons that push little rods on either side
>>I call these rear drum brake calipers
Matt: those things you call "rear drum brake calipers" are the Rear Brake Wheel Cylinders.
>>the rear is rusted but not the front and they move well.
They shouldn't be "rusted out" if you replaced them last year.
What makes you think there is water inside them drum? Inside the drum is QUITE dry (and a little dusty).
Did you use grease or any additive/lubricant on any of the components that go inside the drum when you put it together?
>>what I am calling the calipers on the drum breaks are the little things I >>replaced last year, the line goes into them, they have a bleeder and 2 >>pistons that push little rods on either side
>>I call these rear drum brake calipers
Matt: those things you call "rear drum brake calipers" are the Rear Brake Wheel Cylinders.
>>the rear is rusted but not the front and they move well.
They shouldn't be "rusted out" if you replaced them last year.
What makes you think there is water inside them drum? Inside the drum is QUITE dry (and a little dusty).
Did you use grease or any additive/lubricant on any of the components that go inside the drum when you put it together?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
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From: Lost
Water can get inside a drum and cause the shoes to freeze to the drum, but the wheel will not roll when that happens. I know, it's no fun laying in 10" deep snow prying the brake shoes away from the drums on an 18 wheeler.......
Most likely, it was just water on the cable(s) that caused them to bind.
Most likely, it was just water on the cable(s) that caused them to bind.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Calipers squeeze on outside edges, here are some pictures:
The rear wheel brake cylinders exert outward pressure from the inside (this one here has
only one piston but it's a good picture):
The rear wheel brake cylinders exert outward pressure from the inside (this one here has
only one piston but it's a good picture):
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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thanks for the info guys, just never able to remember the name for the cylinder.
well it was seized again when I went to leave school, I think it must be the e brake cable, same wheel.
guess in shop class I will have to lube the cables up after thawing them, along with bleeding the lines again and replacing the springs (needs to be done anyways)
well it was seized again when I went to leave school, I think it must be the e brake cable, same wheel.
guess in shop class I will have to lube the cables up after thawing them, along with bleeding the lines again and replacing the springs (needs to be done anyways)
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
lubing the cables rarely works, the inner cable has a nylon coating. The outer part of the cable has a nylon inner liner with a metal tube and a plastis cover to slow down the rust, but when the outer metal tube rusts it expands and squeezes the inner cable. The return spring at the end of the cable isnt strong enough to return thepark brake to fully release it. New cables are pretty cheap and not too hard to replace. You can also just remove the brake drums and pry the lever back to where its fully released and not use the e brake until you get it fixed.
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