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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Brake seizing while driving!?!?

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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 02:14 AM
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Exclamation Brake seizing while driving!?!?

hey guys, question about my breaks

well my rear right break was seized when I went to drive, I got it unseized by kicking my tire and then driveing in first for 20 ft with the rear break screaming. I thought it was just ice as it has been very humid out- like 90% and is dropping below freezing today. but when driving on the highway I tapped my breaks (this is 6 hours later after work and 20 after starting to drive) and I started to fish tail lightly, this was fine, but after recovering it felt like the truck was pulling, well I get it home 10 min later and the rear right break smells like I have been riding it down my ski hill the left dosent smell at all.

I just replaced the shoes and calipers last winter, 11 months ago, along with all but the proportioning valve.

any ideas?

I would kind of not like to get my girlfriend killed if this happens on the highway again, me I dont care about, her I do.


I havent replaced the springs and internal workings, could that be it?
either way I think I will replace those in a couple of weeks.

1985 f150 reg cab reg box 300 I6 4spd manual
 

Last edited by ctubutis; Jan 24, 2011 at 10:07 AM. Reason: Fixed spelling in title
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 07:10 AM
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most likely the park brake cable sticking
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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and or the wheel cylinder has rusted. But the brake cable would be the first thing to check.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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k I will check bolth of those, that would cause it to seize while driveing though?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:57 AM
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Mightve had a spring break or come loose on you (?)
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mattthegreat
k I will check bolth of those, that would cause it to seize while driveing though?
A rusted wheel cylinder would be more the cause of that, since the brake fluid pressure is strong enough to overcome the rust, but the springs can't pull back against the rust. But the rusted brake cables are so common on these trucks, I would check them too. If they don't move freely, replace them, they are not expensive and always give trouble on these old trucks.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mattthegreat
k I will check bolth of those, that would cause it to seize while driveing though?
If they are dragging they will expand and get tighter as they heat up
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
A rusted wheel cylinder would be more the cause of that, since the brake fluid pressure is strong enough to overcome the rust, but the springs can't pull back against the rust. But the rusted brake cables are so common on these trucks, I would check them too. If they don't move freely, replace them, they are not expensive and always give trouble on these old trucks.
What are those parking brake cables called for the back? I need to replace both of mine too, as they are rusted beyond belief.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JGreen236
What are those parking brake cables called for the back? I need to replace both of mine too, as they are rusted beyond belief.
They're called parking brake cables.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bashby
They're called parking brake cables.
Are you sure?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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lol I feel I answered my own question :P I asked cause I know theres like 3 different cables that make up the parking line. Srry i've hijacked the thread Matt!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 12:12 PM
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Basicly, there's 3 pieces to the park brake cables. The front cable, which varies depending on wheelbase, and the right/left rear cables. The right and left rear cables are different from each other, but are the same whether the wheelbase is 116", 131", 133", or 155".

A rear brake dragging can be caused by a few things, but the most common items are: binding park brake cable, sticking wheel cyl, or shoes adjusted too tight. As mentioned, they tend to drag more after driving for a short distance, as the brake gets warmer. Afterall, they do work on the principal of friction.....
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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Don't worry about any of the cables except the rear ones that have a sheath over them. Those are the ones that give trouble.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Don't worry about any of the cables except the rear ones that have a sheath over them. Those are the ones that give trouble.
the front one from the e brake pedal has a sheath on it too and sometimes sticks, but its pretty rare.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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My ebrake pedal goes down but doesn't seem to do anything, and when I pull on the release latch the pedal doesn't slam up. Does that have something to do with the cables being rusted?
 
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