Coolant Temperature Sending Unit
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Coolant Temperature Sending Unit
1974 F100 Shortbed 2x4 5.0L 302
I'm working my way piece by piece thru all the non working gauges on my dash. I'm down to the ammeter and the temperature gauge.
Working on the temperature gauge I short the electrical wire to the frame and see that the gauge goes to the right extreme indicating that at least resistance it is working. Once attaching wire back to sending unit (located on the top of the engine block next to the right side of the distributor cap. You literally have to move some of the spark plug wires in order to get to it. Either way. After getting the replacement from Oreillys I notice that the one spec'd for this truck by them and a couple of other websites is to small. Im looking at a 13/16" head on the one thats on there and like a 11/16" from Oreillys. Now thats only the head size and not the main threads that actually go in to the block. I didnt want to pull the original out long enough to take it up there because of the coolant leaking out of the enging block.(that wouldn't last long since its on top right?)
Anyways. Any help on this would be appreciated. Thanks guys
I'm working my way piece by piece thru all the non working gauges on my dash. I'm down to the ammeter and the temperature gauge.
Working on the temperature gauge I short the electrical wire to the frame and see that the gauge goes to the right extreme indicating that at least resistance it is working. Once attaching wire back to sending unit (located on the top of the engine block next to the right side of the distributor cap. You literally have to move some of the spark plug wires in order to get to it. Either way. After getting the replacement from Oreillys I notice that the one spec'd for this truck by them and a couple of other websites is to small. Im looking at a 13/16" head on the one thats on there and like a 11/16" from Oreillys. Now thats only the head size and not the main threads that actually go in to the block. I didnt want to pull the original out long enough to take it up there because of the coolant leaking out of the enging block.(that wouldn't last long since its on top right?)
Anyways. Any help on this would be appreciated. Thanks guys
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If the threads are the same there is no problem.
And yes, if you work real quick you ca unscrew the old one and install the new one. But it's not a big deal to drain a gallon of coolant just to be sure.
Josh
And yes, if you work real quick you ca unscrew the old one and install the new one. But it's not a big deal to drain a gallon of coolant just to be sure.
Josh
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I should add the ammeter gauge doesn't really work like you think it should. Never has and never will.
There was even a Ford TSB regarding the crappy gauges explaining to not expect much needle movement. Easier to install a Volt gauge and be done with it.
Josh
There was even a Ford TSB regarding the crappy gauges explaining to not expect much needle movement. Easier to install a Volt gauge and be done with it.
Josh
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Not so much OEM, but Chinese influence.
I have ran across 3 different sized hex heads on sending units for FE engines, but the threads were the same.
Do you have the original intake or an aftermarket? I have had to use bushings on several aftermarket intakes.
Josh
I have ran across 3 different sized hex heads on sending units for FE engines, but the threads were the same.
Do you have the original intake or an aftermarket? I have had to use bushings on several aftermarket intakes.
Josh
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Well, Its the Masterpro brand from Oreillys, not sure if thats chinese influence or not. Its the stock manifold so nothing should have changed. Maybe you're right and the head size is just different...that would be some crap since I already took it back thinking it was the wrong size...shows me for not even trying.
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From: Southern NM
If you are really looking for an OEM part,call a Ford dealer and ask for this:MOTORCRAFT Part # SW2328 .There are other part outlets that sell that same sender,and probably for a lot less.Check around.
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