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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jsmahan
(Note to self: put plug back in HPOP reservoir before cranking!)
Get a little geyser under the hood?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by woodnthings
Get a little geyser under the hood?
Yeah, didn't take but a moment to figure it out and about an hour to clean.

Also, I meant IPR not ICP. Got one on the way and hope it takes care of it. Thanks for all the input.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tdpower
Sounds more like the IPR. Here is some info:

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.
Your ICP is only reaching 238 then it certainly looks like IPR.

IPR Rebuild
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 04:35 PM
  #19  
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Replaced IPR and no change in readings. Stiil no start and ICP PSI only getting to around 230. What next? HPOP? Any ideas where else to look?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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How long did you crank it after the IPR swap?

Did you also replace the ICP sensor that had oil in it?

Something easy to do is unplug the EBP Sensor and crank, see if that does anything. I have seen where they wig out and screw up the VREF signal.

Did you check fuel pressure before?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #21  
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Cranked on it several times, prob 15-20 min total. Seems to be getting less and less ICP pressure. Last attempt was getting only around 200psi. Did not replace ICP as I was assuming it would at least crank with it un plugged. Need to try the EBP sensor unplug as I am now getting a code for it. Still didn't think it would keep it from cranking. I have not gotten fuel pressure reading yet. My major concern now is the low ICP readings I am getting. Is this telling me the HPOP is bad?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #22  
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Assuming you've checked the wiring going to the IPR to make sure it's not shorted, then the next step would be to block off the HPOP leading to the passenger side head to isolate the driver side and crank again to see what your pressure comes up to. You can still use AE to monitor pressure at this point. If that stays the same, then you will need to hook the passenger side back up and block off the driver side. Install a guage in the passenger side and monitor pressure on the gauge while cranking to see if it builds up any higher.

Last check is to block off both heads and stick a gauge on a line coming off the HPOP to read pressure that way. You have double checked and re-verified the engine oil is full, HPOP reservoir is full, and you do have LPOP pressure, right?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:22 PM
  #23  
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Engine oil is full and reservoir is full. Guess I need to figure out how to block off the lines and get a pressure gauge. What voltage should you be reading at the IPR plug?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #24  
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I bought some STC fittings to use as caps and plugs for the lines and fittings. I had to special order them from a hydraulic shop. Part numbers (FF number) are on the bags in the pictures.







 
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 06:20 AM
  #25  
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There is no voltage spec for the IPR that you can read with a meter. The IPR has a solenoid that is driven by a "duty cycle". That just means that the PCM repeatedly energizes the solenoid. It's like flipping a light switch on and off rapidly. If the "on" pulse is short compared to the "off" pulse, the room stays pretty dark. But if you make the "on" pulse longer , the room gets lighter.

Ken, thanks for the pics of plugs and part numbers.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #26  
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Another Update: Injector #4 continued to sound suspect during buzz test. Removed valve cover and noted oil gushing from #4 when cranking. Pulled it and found major O-ring failure. Going to replace these and see what happens. Apparently not IPR or HPOP issue after all. I'll let you know what happens with O-ring replacement.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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Subscribed. Interested in final outcome.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:32 PM
  #28  
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O-rings were not the problem, at least not external. Had to replace injector and it fired right up. Noted oil pouring from around the injector even after O-ring replacement. Luckily I had a good spare available. Not all issues are IPR related. Listen to the injector buzz test and follow up with your suspicions. Thanks for all of the input. Another satisfied customer is served.

BTW, have access to complete 7.3 with 140,000 miles when pulled for $2000. It was running when pulled due to accident. Good deal?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 11:03 PM
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Thanks for the update. Glad you have solved that problem.

From the troubleshooting guide in post #14:

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

But your ICP was 4 times the 60 PSI mentioned here. I'll have to remember that even with an injector pissing oil ICP could still be about 240 PSI.
We have learned something from your troubleshooting. Reps sent.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #30  
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Glad to provide a conclussion. I have learned so much from this site and am glad to give a little info back. Again, thanks to all for input.
 
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