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What do you mean by "fe or above"? If you are set on that particular transmission it appears you are stuck with a small block so I'm guessing a 351W is your best choice but maybe someone else will have more info. And welcome to fte!
Yes, I'm set on an aod. Definitely want automatic overdrive. Agreed with the small block. I'm looking to hear people's thoughts on 302, 351W, 351C, etc. as to which one would be more appropriately for towing.
For sure not the 302 if you plan on towing and I may be mistaken but the clevelands are hard to come by, your best bet out of those 3 is the 351W, they are plentifull. BTW, dont forget your brakes and suspension upgrades, these are just as important as the others.
If it small block you are looking at stay away from the 302 not good for towing at all. The 351w is your best bet. Just remember its not getting the trailer moving that's the problem its stopping it that's the problem. Good brakes on truck and must have brakes on trailer.
300, 460, or the 390 which you shouldn't not consider. certain 390's make a lot of torque sooner than you'd think. Some made peak tq at 2,600rpm i believe. That's pretty good for a stock v8.
Since you are researching this and you have your tranny picked out, now you need to finalize the rear end choice. The final drive ratio will determine the rpm that the motor has to operate at. Since you're going to have an OD you can get a bit more aggressive with your gearing choices -- at lease 3:73s or maybe some 4.10s. You can figure out your tire size and then find an RPM calculator and figure out what the motor will be turning.
Once you do that you can start researching where the various motors make their torque at and try to approximate that to match your anticipated normal cruise speed. You will also have to finalize cam choice to help decide, cams can change everything!
Pay attention to what everyone is saying about brakes; at 6000 lbs the trailer will weigh more than the truck and will be able to push it pretty good when you're trying to stop. You'll definitely need to have the truck brakes in good shape and have the trailer brakes in good order with a controller in the cab.
IMO, discounting the FEs and 429/460 for towing ends up in a less than ideal combination for the proposed use. Small blocks (302/351) simply do not have the torque to cope with towing 6K. Even a stroked 351W (a 392 or even a 427) it'll be a total dog on hills but may be okay for the flatlands. I towed a roller 65 Stang (no engine/trans) on a dolly with a 76 2WD. ...It was gutless and I felt like a rolling hazard.
The best bang for your buck in a "budget build" is a 460.
I would get rid of the small block tranny and go late model EFI 460 with a 5 spd or Auto with o/d if I were building a low budget tow rig. Any small block will have to work hard to pull 6k pounds. A 460 won't hardly know it's there. I prefer FE's but cubic inches wins this battle in my opinion. Although that is lots of weight for an F100. I've towed a 3000lbs car behind my 73 F100. The 360/4v (600 Holley on 390 cast iron intake) 4 speed struggled a little bit on long, steep grades, but it was the braking that was a little hairy. The suspension was a mushy and the brakes were a little under powered for serious mountains. If you wanted to be unique you could go 408 Cleveland. The stroke would help with the torque, but that would probably get costly, so really your only choice is a 351w. EFI came on them in the late 80s and 90s and will get the job done.
Forget that pansey automatic tranny, man up and go NP435, then go with the 390 FE and some 410 gears, you will have a tow monster. then you would just have to worrie about the brakes and suspension