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Hi i have a 86 ford aerostar 3.0 v6 that i put into a suzuki samuria i had it working good but i had a rear main seal leak so i pulled the motor changed it along with some gaskets and what not. got it all put back together and go to start it and it sounds like theres alot of compression or something it struggles to turn over sometimes it will only turn like half a turn and it starts getting the wires hot. its all wired right checked and double checked tried three differnt batteries.starter silinoide good. and when i take all the spark plugs out it turns over freely but when i put them back in it struggles agian and heats up the wires. i been on this problem for a while now and any help is appreciated i have tried alot of things tho and just cant seem to get whats going on.
Did you perchance take apart the ignition when you took it out to replace the rear main seal? If so, I wonder if you have the plugs mis-wired? If it's resisting cranking so much with the plugs installed, and spins freely with no plugs, I thinking it might be trying to fire the plugs at the wrong times, like too much ignition advance.
When you crank without the plugs, do the wire still heat up? If so, something else is causing drag on the engine.
when i pulled the engine i didnt take off the ditributor or the plug wires and the last time it ran it was timed right i didnt take apart the ignition. i talked to another guy and he told me to make sure i was grounded good and i regrounded the neg bat. wire and it seems like it turns a little better but still not enough. and the wires i was refering to was the battery wire usaully the positive gets the hotest and yes the wires still gets hot when i turn it over with no spark plugs but it takes a lil while longer.
Motor should be able to turn by hand a little plugs or not. Or by a wrench on the crank.
If it doesn't maybe when you put it back in you have something wrong. If it does turn over easy did you remove the starter? Drop it,hit it? The starter may be binding. Sounds to me like you should find the problem before turning it over much.. And don't run it for sure..
Did you replace the red, hot wire? If the engine turns over by hand and the starter gear isn't binding your starter might not be getting the voltage it needs which should be around 10-11 volts measured at the starter while cranking. One of the wires may be screwed up. Try unplugging the coil That will eliminate the possibility of a timing issue or having the plug wires in the wrong place.Pos and neg hooked up right? Try using jumper cables at the starter.. Good one's. Maybe starter is rubbing inside? New units can have problems.
ok so i got it to start it had something to do with the timing and my shifter had broke and it was stuck in gear.
thanks alot for your guys help i do have one more problem tho it runs hot and it did before to but the intake manifold is a 4.0 and it has what it looks like to two heater hose ends on it and i dont have a heater or anything so i have it runing from the top hole to the block and the bottom hole is blocked off should i switch them or is that not even my problem.
If you don't have a heater, a common thing to do is just run one heater hose into the other. But that should not cause the engine to overheat, as the heater is a very tiny radiator, contributing very little to engine cooling. You may have some other problems causing the overheat.
Didn't you say the engine was a 3.0 v6? I'm not sure how you can fit a 4.0 liter intake manifold on it.
i dont have a heater or any part of a heater we just ran the heater hose from the block to the intake manifold but on the 4.0 manifold where the heater hose goes theres a spot for 2 hoses one has a lil nipple on the side of it where a wire from the wiring harness goes and the other one dont right now i have the hose on the one without the nipple sensor thing and to the block and the one with the nipple sensor thing i have plugged. it dont get hot if it sits and idle its when i start cruzing then the temp starts rising and i pull over and let it cool. the engine is a 3.0 v6 the only difference between the 4.0 is of course a liter but also the heater hose ends on the 3.0 theres only one and on the 4.0 theres the 2 one with the nipple sensor and one without and there in the same location with each other right above one another but one has a nipple.
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Dude, I feel sorry for you. There is a lot more difference between a 3.0L and a 4.0L. If you have somehow managed to put parts from one to the other, that is your problem.
The 3.0L is known as the Vulcan. The 4.0L is known as the Cologne. They are not the same engine, and parts from one will not really interchange with the other.
then maybe its not the 4.0 but when i was looking for the thermastat gasket the people couldnt find the right one they tried different years and everything then the tried different liters and the 4.0 had the right gasket and everything did fit on the manifold the air intake bolted right up and everything else when we had both the manifolds off they looked exactly the same except the heater hose end and the thermastat was on differnt ends.
Samurai has an itsy-bitsy teene-weene 1.3 liter 4 cyl engine. When you put in the 4L V6 from the Aero did you throw out the original Samy rad and installed a bigger one?
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